87ComancheLB

To me it sounds like you are used to f'in up just like the dumbass windshield installer. Wouldn't have mattered if the dash was made out of eggshells, it should have not been damaged by installing a windshield. He was requested by a friend, sounds like was doing a good job, he just didn't realize how bad condition it was in, and No I'm not used to F'in up like you say but I can tell when something is old and fragile.

I have seen enough old 20 yr sun bake dash it the junk yard and if you just press down it will shatter like this, sure it was perfect if you didn't touch it or blow on it. If he accidently causes the damage I can understand becauses it so old, and the way it was taken care of, which seem like never it's just common sense dude. How can I demand a new replacement if I knew the condition it was in that's how bad it was if it was still good it would have give and he probably just had his back hand resting on the dash while holding the sawall thinking it should be OK but beening so brittle it shattered. it doesn't take much when it's in this condition.

Well I for one know when something is old and gone and I would have known the dash board was ready to go, if he would have damaged it I would have said yeah I know I was planning on replacing it anyways it was already gone. The kid probably just did like he did a hundred times before and never had a problem until he ran into a real old sun beaten 22 yr old fragile dash. It just show how honest I'm really am and not trying to get something for nothing. It was junk already pfft!

And when you have the dash out you can paint it using Duplicolor dash paint I used sand color closest to the tan color, awesome paint. many colors to chose from. :cheers: Image Not Found Image Not Found

No offense but it looks like it been baking in the sun for years! I've seen a few dash's in the junkyard and they crack when I applied very little pressure or if I looked at them the wrong way. Regardless yes they did caused the damage, but let's be fair it was very fragile to begin with. Now if it look like in my condition and then they damage it then you might have a stronger case. Image Not Found Good luck. If I were you I would accept his 1st deal, why not have him buy you the replacement from the JY and you can install it yourself, it's not that hard and believe me your dash was gone the way it crack shows how brittle the material was and be happy your getting a free replacement. :cheers:

Hey Phil I'm also doing my own minor bodywork and also getting it ready for paint I saw this in my local area craiglist sounds like a good deal what do you think? Pretty cheap cost wise. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/1235141088.html

Metal treated with metal ready, primer sealer, bondo, primer,bondo etc. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found New look swap for chrome deal. Image Not Found

I got to agree the kid could have done a better job, but these old dash 22 years old doesn't take much pressure to cause cracks and based on your picture it was long gone dude when was last time it seen any amorall? I'm not saying what he did was right but just seems like it was already ready to go. I would just try and settle this mess before it got too out of hand, to me not worth the hassle! Believe me he could have still been careful and just applying a little pressure will cause the hard brittle material to crack, it's 22 years old man mine even with constant amorall and dash cover is still very fragile.

Are you talking about going from a TBI 4 cylinder to an MPFI 4 cylinder? Cause if you are, it doesn't apply here. He's got a 6 cylinder. All 4.0s are MPFI. WTF? :fs1:

When I did mine I didn't need the spacer and left it out mine came out of an automatic don't know I think some of these rod lenghts were different sizes. (Brake pedal would have been to low) Also the lines just needs to be rebend and will bolt directly in the Proportioning valve block. Image Not Found Image Not Found And yes the easy way is to redrill the eyelet larger and make a flat spot on the rod and use all the original brake switch etc. :cheers: Image Not Found Here it was when I found it in the Junk yard. lol Image Not Found

Trust me guys if all else fails swap out the injectors it will be like driving a new MJ. I did it for more power and better mileage and this crazy symptoms being driving me crazy for years! Now it just idles perfectly well behave. No more embarrassing moments at the stop light (Super high idle) :rotf:

If cleaning the IAC doesn't help mine 87 was doing the same thing was driving me nuts I ended up swapping out all the fuel injectors to the 4 port was more of an upgrade, but it idles like a dream now and never ever idle high again no more blipping the throttle. :clapping: So I say your injectors need cleaning or replacement they are sticking run some fuel injector cleaner in your tank.

I did mine I use the 2 part Quikrete. I wished use the 1 part epoxy instead, your concrete driveway will soak up a lot plan on using 5 gallons worth or more. All these kits are based on very smooth garage floors. Supposely makes the concrete 2 to 3 times stronger. I did spill brake fuild, gas, oil etc just washes off. Image Not Found

I decide to tackle the clearcoat problem were the repair was made some 20 years ago and I wasn't too happy with the work they did back then. I ended up taking it down to bare metal and removed all the old bondo. Was a lot been removing it slowly. Image Not Found Image Not Found Pick this up at Harbor freight for $40. Image Not Found Pounded out most of the low spots, will try and minimize bondo usage. Image Not Found Image Not Found I broke one stud on every bracket trying to remove fender. :no: Image Not Found

No the XJ has the full gauges just like mine, it just pegs the needle all the way forward doesn't do anything doesn't fluctuate with the rpm's. The original sensor just stay pegged at 70 doesn't move at all, just seem really strange it all started with the O-rings? something must of happen because it all right there I knew about the pin.:nuts:

After I did this fix my oil pressure reads almost 70 was working perfectly before I did this, now it just peg at 70 I tried unplugging the wire to the sensor to see what it does pegs the needle all the way forward, so no open wire or anything. Any idea's what might of happen? Gauges needle doesn't move at all just stays at 70? :dunno: Went down to my local JY and picked up a sensor off a 4.0l XJ different body type but same plug and threads, turn on key goes to zero once it starts pegs needle all the way forward beyond the numbers into no man land and stay there. I didn't want to tear down the oil adapter again to see if something wrong happened? but it must be that! it was working perfectly before this O-ring change I just don't see what could of happened? :dunno:

After I did this fix my oil pressure reads almost 70 was working perfectly before I did this, now it just peg at 70 I tried unplugging the wire to the sensor to see what it does pegs the needle all the way forward, so no open wire or anything. Any idea's what might of happen? Gauges needle doesn't move at all just stays at 70? :dunno:

As you notice the oil filter stand vertical downwards towards the oil pan so not too much oil came out. I did place a pan to catch what little there was. :D

My current bikes. 2003 ZZR1200 Image Not Found 1996 ZX-11 D Image Not Found 1992 ZX-11 C Image Not Found

Not showing off trying to help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/407-Universal-Nitrile-O-ring-Engine-Repair-Service-Kit_W0QQitemZ270395998819QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item3ef4db8263&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I recently just did this job and it didn't take all what you wrote and I didn't even drain the oil and no special fab up tool to remove? it was quite easy. I bought the kit from Autoquest for something like $5.00 came with all the O-ring and adapters universal kit. I took a picture of the O-rings the kit was missing one O-ring might have worked if stretched? :dunno: Picture on left side shows actual O-rings from adapter. Image Not Found

Why not just buy one of these O-rings kits. I believe I paid $10 bucks on Ebay. Image Not Found

I don't see how moisture is going to get in between? I have used both products and I feel Herculiner was more superior tough polyurethane with small rubber bits. I guess it all in the prep work, which I did very good job and wipe everything down with Xylol as recommended before applying. Por-15 is just tough paint and seals good but if you ever want to remove it just apply paint remover and it will lift right off in one big piece I know I tried it. I even applied some inside the cab corners. Thanks!

Hi Mfpdm, thanks for stopping by. I used the same engine enamel for the intake. Valve cover painted with Metalcast paint blue made by Dulpicolor. Por-20 works great for the headers very durable :cheers:

Only 3 more years to Live! LOL. I for one believe the Mayan's predictions that the time will end for us as we know it! as the world crosses the Galactic plane (Center Massive Black hole) it will cause a pole reversal. Been getting a lot on seismic activity lately in So, Calif and just recently in Mexico city, Volcanic activites increasing all over the world. Nostrodamus 2012, Sumerians, NWO, Illumunati's, Georgia guide stones, Planet X Nibiru , Denver airport, etc... Our Government and others around the world are already planning for this, for the selected few to live underground to ride out this event and to save mankind. The web bot has predicted that after 2012 we will be split in to tribal communities and man will spend 80% of their time tending crops. Doh! Those that do survive, time seems to be going faster!!!