mvusse

Yes, fuel flows through it.

In Ohio it is illegal as well, unless you are a licensed and insured tow truck operator. What got me was the one time I was in a ditch I was on the phone with AAA and three people stopped offering to pull me out for $20 or $30. Why on earth would I pay some uninsured yahoo to get my vehicle out of a ditch when I can get an insured tow truck to do it for free (AAA would pay for it)?

Yes, that would be the booster. As for the clunk, have somebody move the steering left and right while you're under the truck to see what is moving that shouldn't be.

In Ohio you need to be on a fire department to be allowed a red one, but amber is legal for anyone.

Check the vacuum lines going to the axle disconnect.

PICTURES!!!!

I think the lift may be a red herring. My guess is the hole in the track bar bracket is wallowed out and the track bar moves.

Dude, you got a winch on that bumper. Use it.

On paintball markers loc-tite is routinely used to seal threaded high pressure (1500 psi) connections.

I have only ever tried to replace the brushes on one MJ alternator. They are not like the Chevy ones where the brushes are easily accessible from the back. They are not meant to be replaceable and the entire alternator needs to be disassembled. Then I had a hard time finding the brushes. After I had it back together it had taken me longer to fix it that it took my daughter to break it again (one good romp through a deep mud hole). For the time invested I just get $20 junk yard ones now.

I have two experiences with a (Renix era) 4.0 litre automatic with stock 3.55 gears on 31" tires. Can't recall the city mileage, but remember getting 21mpg cruising at 75mph. Both those experiences were with axles that didn't disengage (Selec-trac Cherokee, and a Comman-Trac with the disco delete). That was better than the 19mpg my stock tires got at that speed, although at 60mph my stock tires got 24mpg which the 31x10.50s couldn't catch. When was the last time the O2 sensor was replaced? As for gear ratio, 3.73 is probably closest to stock, 4.10 for some added torque.

I had a 231 with a chain so badly stretched it was skipping teeth and wearing a groove where it was laying on the bottom of the case. New chain was so tight I had trouble lining the shafts up perfectly to slip into the bearings. In a 242 it may matter more. I would put the shifter into part time 4wd (either high or low). Grab the rear output in one hand and the front output in the other ad twist them to feel for any slop between them. Should be hardly any.

Seat with an e, not an i. (I grew up in Europe) 8)

Buddy of mine has one for sale. Starting to get too small for him and his two kids, so it got replaced by a Cherokee. Two other people I regularly wheel with (husband and wife team) each have one as well. Her's is running a VW diesel and has a 3K ATV winch that has never let her down yet.

:thumbsup:

VIN decoder must be buggy, I don't think selec-trac was ever available on the Comanche, although I see no reason why it couldn't have been.

Done with the XJ for now, so back to the Pig. Got the rollers on my fairlead rolling again, changed the oil, installed speaker in passenger door and speaker grill in door cover, and a hockey stick style armrest because Sarah complained about missing the grab handle when I swapped them to the Purple People Eater. And did I mention last time I worked on it I replaced the passenger side mirror (again)? Also did an oil change.

Don't know if the threads changed between 87 and 94, but I had an S10 shift knob o my 94 Cherokee with AX15. Now that I think of it, I may have one laying around off a YJ AX-5. I'll try to remember to check today.

My Pioneer came with one also, but I sold it to a member. Then the Purple People Eater had one for a few months before I found an 87 one (blue lettering) with an adjustable tach.

It's all part of being a member of a recognized club. IIRC, a percentage of what you buy will go back to Comanche Club as well.

Renix era is not uncommon to have full gauges except tach.

Didn't they run it Monday in 1967 because of 1" of rain on Sunday?

What brand lift does your friend have? What is the distance from the top of the front axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail inboard of the coil spring? Stock specs are 6.75" +/- .5" for 2wd, one inch higher for 4wd. I have a large heavy custom winch bumper made from 3/16 steel and an XRC10 winch. They sucked down the front maybe 1". Again, 6.5" lift up front usually pretty much matches SOA rear with REGULAR STOCK SPRINGS. NOT MT SPRINGS.

Still working on the XJ before I can go back to the MJ. Got the transmission all buttoned up to find out the neutral safety switch is bad. It will start in neutral, but not in park. So I got to swap that one over from the old transmission. have not installed drive shafts yet. Currently have the rear bumper half off and then my daughter interrupted me. Need to remove rear bumper to get to the trailer hitch bolts. Remove trailer hitch to be able to get the shackles off to install the lift shackles. Then install the class IV hitch off the park XJ to replace the class III, and swap the rear bumper over. And then check the pinion angle, possibly get some degree wedges and play with a bunch of weight and the fork lift to cycle the suspension and measure for a rear driveshaft.

Or maybe a Samurai owner.