mvusse

Believe NAPA carries them also and I think I might have seen them at Autozone.

Swamped the engine, changed air filter, oil and oil filter, covered it in mud and broke the passenger side front side marker light. Not necessarily in that order.

an 86 with the 4 cylinder and an 87 with the 4 cylinder are the same except for the firewall. All the stuff in the front is only different if it had a 4 litre in it.

If you want to keep a stick shift with a 3.8, put an AX15 behind it using a Dodge Dakota bellhousing.

Buttoned up the new front axle and drove it home.

I use a Harbor Freight seal and race driver kit and a framing hammer.

I had a catastrophic failure causing me to lose a wheel at 60mph. Luckily my suspension had enough flex and with only 3 wheels the truck was still rock solid. Got into the gas a bit deeper to maintain my speed until the lane beside me cleared, signaled my lane change and pulled over. When I came to a stop the pavement was burning around a glowing red bottom of the steering knuckle as it was sinking into the roadbed. By the time the tow truck finally showed up it was a few inches deep and the asphalt had solidified around it. Tow truck driver had all kinds of fun trying to get my truck loose.

The passenger side inner shaft has a c clip on it inside the carrier.

I print my receipts and keep track of mileage on my laptop. I have NEVER had the total price not match the amount the pump said I pumped. The only time I suspected a problem is after I swapped in a new 23.5 gallon tank. I poured in two gallons from a can, then drove to the gas station and pumped 25 gallons into it. That's 27 gallons into a 23.5 gallon tank (it's not even 1/10 mile from my house to the gas station). The sticker on the pump said it has been certified by the county auditor a few months prior, but I called the number anyway. I got a call back from the county two days later to let me know the pump's calibration was still spot-on.

usually, programmers need at the very least an OBD II computer, That means 1996 or newer. The ECM in my 96 Cherokee (which is OBD II) currently runs a modified factory program, but the reprogramming was done by a dealer.

If you want to do ball joints just once, get Moog. I don't mind the work so I get the lifetime warranty Duralast from Autozone for a painless warranty exchange when I need it. Autozone just redid their loaner program and they don't have a loaner balljoint press kit that has all the needed adapters for our axles anymore. I believe Advance Auto parts still does for a $160 refundable deposit. I just replaced two ball joints on a new axle I just installed under Wilbur this morning and made do with the Autozone press and a little piece of scrap 3/16" steel.

I had done this in the past, and couldn't get the SWR down below 2.3. Tried with a 4" fiberglass whip from Radio Shack, 3' Firestick and 3' K40. With a 102" whip I got 1.7. The fender is just not a good place for a CB antenna. I now run the 3' K40 on top of a spring mount on the middle of the roof with an SWR of 1.0.

The 96 I disassembled had it in that same spot. If you think the Torx bolts on our upper control arms are bad, the tabbed bolts they use on the newer XJs are worse. The tab bends making it useless when trying to remove the nut, but the way they mount the tab messes up the bolt head to where you can't get a wrench on it. Both on Sparkles and the parts rig I ended up taking a cutting wheel to those bolts.

Swapping a new front axle under Wilbur to go off road again next weekend (last trip two weeks ago the center shaft broke and chewed the crud out of the pinion gear as well as messing up the carrier.). Taking the Aussie out of the old axle I find two broken pins. Guess I'll be running spider gears in the front for the first time since 2008. Got the new axle under the truck and while greasing all the fittings I find both ball joints on the passenger side are bad. :wall:

97 is when the body design changed, so pre-97, not pre-96. Seats are the exception. The seats themselves are the same (as a 2 door Cherokee, so they will flip forward to stash gear behind them), but the mounting brackets are not because the floor pan is different. As for the header panel, Eagle is correct, but except for some very minor details, the two styles look identical when all put together.

My bookmark goes straight to the forums, so I have not noticed this. The site has been slow the last few days, and today is almost unbearably so. Almost like using a dial up connection, Half the time it either times out or I eventually get a "connection reset" or MySQL error (unable to connect to socket). Other sites are as quick as ever, though, so the problem is not my connection to the net.

UPS uses a lot of different engines in their trucks including IH, Benz and yes, Cummins. But not the 4BT, though. They use a detuned 6BT. Some Chevy/GMC step vans commonly used for bread trucks used the 4BT, hence the nickname "Crummins".

Whereabouts are you at? I have one in my long bed (don't know what it is meant for, though) that fits pretty good. You can have it if you come get it.

Was the 904 not also used behind the 2.5 in Wranglers up through at least 94?

Don't know how the law is in Florida, but here in Ohio if the other person is at fault and you can't work as a direct result of the accident, he (not his insurance company) is responsible for any lost wages.

1987 2.5, AX4 3.55 gears, 4wd, fiberglass cap, P235/75R15 tires at 35psi. Last May I had to go to Chicago, so I did a test. On the way there I filled up just before getting on the turnpike and ran 75mph for 320 miles. Averaged 19mpg. On the way home I took secondary highways going 60mpg. Averaged 27 mpg. Decided I needed a 5th gear, so I swapped out the AX4 for an AX5, left the 3.55 gears in the axles and went on a trip to Detroit. 60 mph there I still averaged 27mpg. 75mph on the way home I averaged 24mpg.

The Spicer 5-799x u joint is discontinued, and is an outside snap ring 1350 series joint for a driveshaft.

This is very true, the TJ D44 is basically a glorified dana 30. The JK D44 is very different, nothing is shared with the TJ D30 or D44. Bigger shafts, bigger u joints, Bigger Cs, bigger unit bearings.... According to Autozone and Advance Auto Parts, the Jk axles (both 30 and 44) use standard D44 u joints. These are the same ones as the TJ Rubicon 44 and the larger u joint D30 ones. Spicer part number 5-297x, or 5-760x for the stronger cold forged non-cross drilled ones.

To get back to the brakes, I put ZJ Grand Cherokee disc brakes on my 8.25". I had to make the center hole in the brackets and backing plates larger to fit over the larger diameter axle tubes, but aside from that it was a direct bolt in. There are different ways to make the hole larger. I've heard of people using a die grinder or a Dremel. I used a 2,75" hole saw (to act as a "centering pin") inside of a 3" hole saw on a drill press turned to the lowest speed (250rpm) with lots of oil. Took about 30 seconds per bracket.