mvusse

I twist the square part off.

?????? The spring definitely sits BELOW the axle. My guess is that you your old tired leafs are sagging.

Limited by the shocks:

The Harbor Freight ones are fine for occasional use chasing threads. When one you use more often gets dull, buy a good quality single to replace it with. No need paying well over $100 for a bunch of sizes you will never use. My HF set is still about 75% HF, the rest has been replaced over time.

Needing a front pipe for the Purple People Eater (87 MJ, 4 cylinder) the computer came up with "not available". Had them look one up for an 87 XJ 4 cylinder and they had 2 in stock.... It gets worse when you start modifying your Jeep. Earlier this year I needed new brake pads for my rear disk brakes. I had the guy look up brake pads for a 1996 Grand Cherokee and got them off the shelf. Then he asked me if I bought another Jeep. I said no, they are going on my 87 Comanche. He then tells me they won't fit as he turned to put them back on the shelf. Trust me, dude, on MY truck, they will fit just fine.

you can remove the clips that bind the leafs together, but you will have more axle wrap by doing that.

My bet is that your shocks are limiting it.

Maybe the springs have sagged over time? Is it is just up a bit it shouldn't cause a problem. It is 25 year old technology, and the rear break bias adjustment is not an exact science.

If you have mods to the front axle causing the front driveshaft to always spin when in motion (locker, single shaft conversion, non disconnect axle etc.), the most common cause for that is the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft locking up from lack of lubrication.

My 1994 Suburban had one of those. I abused it until 2009 when it I sold it with close to 200,000 miles on it. Never had one problem with it.

I use precut sections that are already flared and have the fittings on them for two reasons: 1 - as you say, snaking 17' or brake line from the axle to the master cylinder is a real pain, especially if you don't have a lift. 2 - hard as I try, I only succeed about 50% of the time at making a correct double flare on the end of a piece of brake line. To the OP: how do the brake lines look? You have to at least replace the rusted through section, but usually that means the rest of the brake line is also in pretty bad shape meaning you replace it all from the master cylinder down to the rear hose.

Way back when I had plans to put a 3-53 into my F100.Never did happen before I wrecked it, but from the research I did, you want to put a turbo on it, not for power, but to quiet down the exhaust. Without a turbo there is no muffler on this planet that can quiet a 2 cycle diesel down to reasonable levels.

The driver is Pistachio Disguisey.

:popcorn: As an immigrant I can't vote in this country. I can vote in the Dutch elections, though.

Interco LTB 16/40-16LT I believe the TrXus comes in 21/40, but that would be too wide for you as you specify 15.5-18". The 16" rims size limits you a lot, as most wide tires I can find are for 15" or 16/5".

For practical purposes 3.54 and 3.55 are identical. If it came out of a Comanche, $300 would be a good deal, if it came out of a Cherokee $200 would be a good deal, $400 IMO is a little high no matter what it came out of. Watch out, though, as there are also a million D44 FRONT axles out there, most commonly from a Ford or full size Wagoneer, but I believe also some Chevies.

Filling it until it runs out the (top) fill hole is the correct way to do it, I have found listed capacities to not always be very accurate. Same procedure for axles and manual transmission.

Then you tie the bulb directly into the electrical switch on the transfer case that is specifically for that light. Hot to bulb to switch.

I bent and broke plenty a 1/2" breaker bar as well as bent the 4' extension pipe I put on it before I spent $49.95 on a Harbor Freight electric impact. That bugger has never let me down yet, even though it supposedly only has 240 ft-lbs of torque and my 200 pound frame standing on the end of a 4' pipe is 800 ft-lbs. I think the key is impact, not steady force.

To test unlocking, you need two people. With the transfer case in 4wd one person turns a front wheel forward until it stops and holds it there, then the other person spins the other wheel backwards, it should turn while the locker ratchets. BTW, what brand lunch box locker did you install? Did you follow the instructions? Were the clearances as measured with a feeler case within spec? I only have direct experience with the Aussie, but I imagine them to all be basically the same.

Hmm, my 3/4 ton camper van with an extended roof (95.5" high, surely catches more wind than your truck) I get 16mpg highway without a trailer, 14 towing my empty car hauler and 9 towing my truck. That is with a 21 year old 5.7l small block with over 100,000 miles on it. One of the reasons for the single digit towing is that the van itself weighs over 8,000 pounds empty, truck on trailer is 7,000 pounds or more and I usually have over 1,000 pounds of camping gear, water, gas and people in the van with only a 700R4 transmission. There is no way that transmission can handle 16,000 pounds in overdrive, so I tow in drive. When it blows I will look for a 4L80E and standalone computer. 400 would be simpler, but it has no OD so wouldn't help my mileage any.

I have had an Aussie Locker in my front D30 for going on 4 years now, first with stock tires, then 33s, now 35s, 3.55 gears, CAD delete. In 2wd it is invisible. The only way I can tell it is there in 2wd is from the clicking noise it makes when making a sharp turn. 4wd it locks solid giving me all the traction I usually need and sometimes even more than that. From what you describe it sounds like it is always locked, like welded spider gears or a mini spool.

I have about 10 of their newsletters in my trash folder, they all show that same banner. They must change the file but keeping the file name the same.

<off topic> I had my CB antenna mounted there for a few weeks. Best SWR I could manage with a 4' whip was 2.2. A full size 102" antenna only got 1.7. The fender just does not make a good ground plane. I now have it in the middle of my roof. 102" up there was 1.0, 4' Radio Shack piece of poo I managed to tune to 1.0, 3' Firestik I tuned to 1.0 and now have a 2' K40 up there on top of a spring mount, also 1.0. </off topic>

Oil pressure switch?