mvusse

O2 SENSOR!

Without the tach that spot would have a ginormous fuel gauge.

Dropped to the incredibly low price of $8000 it seems.

My Renix 4.0 when stock, the best mileage I got (24mpg) was cruising 60mph which was right around 2000 rpm. That is with the automatic transmission and 3.55 gears. Any faster than that and the mileage went down a lot. On a 400 mile trip to Badlands Offroad Park a few years back, running 70 almost the entire way) I only got 19mpg, while a buddy in a 90 Cherokee, same engine, transmission and gearing but on 31s, still got 22. So I would say between 2000-2200 rpm. Also from experience, the HO engines seem to be better at higher rpms, like around 2400 or so.

Be advised that front axle will be a low pinion, which is weaker than the stock XJ/MJ high pinion. Doesn't matter much stock on the street, but if you start building it up for off road it might make a difference. If the transmission is an AW4, transmission and transfer case should bolt up, but you may need a transmission mount and/or a cross member. The 249 I believe came only behind the V8, so your possibilities are 231 or 242.

Huh? Both of mine have a stock black interior.

Good luck finding one as that article states it hasn't been made in 30 years.

Both of mine turned 26 last month. (87 model year, build date of nov 86 for both), and have been running "historical vehicle" plates on one of them since January. They are older than both my kids (16 and 22),

Reinstalled front pipe and "muffler", ditto bellhousing inspection cover, swapped play tires out for 29" stockers (looks funny as all can be) and took it for a drive. Holy smokes! The brakes actually work now!!!! I must have set the record for taking longest to replace a rear main seal. I think it was over a month ago when I started on it.

Interior lights, Comanche badges. Snag everything that's Comanche specific.

I learned long ago to never buy anything off TV. But some people seem to think because it's on TV, it must be true. Much like with the internet. Oh, and I'm a French model.

Wilbur: Reinstalled oil pan, changed filter, filled with oil, installed starter, hook up battery, started it. Good -> no oil leak (yet) Bad -> permanent hearing damage from open header. Purple People Eater: New distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs.

After I found I only got 19 mpg running 75mph (but 27mpg at 60) on flat ground with my AX4 I swapped in an AX5 and kept the 3.55 gears. Now I get 24mpg at 75 and still 27 at 60. But I am running almost stock sized tires and 5th gear is useless on any sort of incline. For larger tires I would suggest 3.73 or 4.10. With the stock 3.55 and larger tires you can swap in an AX5, but you won't be using 5th very much if at all.

If you have to ask, you do not have the tools nor the knowledge to install the gears yourself. If you are going to pay somebody to do that for you, you will pay more than it would cost for a set of junk yard axles that already have 4.10 gears. Look for a 4wd Cherokee with a 4 cylinder/5 speed stick. Front axle will bolt in, rear axle will need a bit of cutting with an angle grinder, new spring perches (cheap) and $20 paid to a welding shop to make it bolt in. You should be able to get both axles for ~$350. That is quite a bit less than you will per axle to have your current ones regeared ($500-$800, for a total of $1000-$1600).

Doesn't matter much. 4th gear with 3.55 and 5th gear with 4.10 both give the exact same final drive ratio. So basically the factory 5 speed setup gives you a lower 1st gear, but the top gear is the same.

A friend of mine got a set of 4 MTs (looks like the old Goodyear MT/R), and one had a small defect that would not affect the performance. He emailed them with a picture and they sent him a new tire free of charge, told him to keep the old one for a spare if he wanted. Former coworker of mine ran a set of MTs in 31x10.50 on his Dakota. Had them on for 2 years before I lost contact with him. I put a set of ATs in 265/75R16 (~32x10.50) on my daughter's Cherokee using stock Liberty rims. They are on BFG AT T/A KO carcasses, so unless you know what to look for you won't know they are retreads. Been on there for about 6 months now and have performed great on dry pavement, wet pavements, and surprisingly well off road (a large part of that might have been driver skill, she puts me to shame out there). Don't know about snow yet.

28.9 is the theoretical correct size for a 235/75R15. There is NO way that size tire is ever going to be 30.9" tall. Actually, I just looked it up and that Hankook is a 235/75R17. It is 2" taller because it goes on a 2" taller rim. They don't make that tire in any other size than that.

Start by looking at Cherokees from 88 through 90 in a junk yard for a cluster with a tach. IIRC, a higher limit speedometer would only have been available with the 91 and newer police package Cherokee, and these are not compatible with your 88.

Take it from someone who has made almost every possible mistake in life, and - surprisingly - actually learned a little from them: WORRY ABOUT FINISHING COLLEGE FIRST. Take out a student loan if necessary. Worry about everything else after you're done with college. This one thing will affect the rest of your life. Unless, of course, you want to be a sod laying grunt.

Cherokee rear springs are nowhere close to Comanche ones. First off, they are a lot shorter meaning they would not fit, or even come close to fitting. Also they are nearly flat where stock Comanche springs have quite an arch to them, which has a lot to do with the Cherokee spring mounting on top of the axle and the Comanche spring mounting under the axle. In fact, My (daughter's) Cherokee has about 4" of lift achieved in the rear by using the Cherokee main spring, then two leafs from a Comanche pack, and finally the Cherokee bottom leaf. In reverse, bastard packing a spring replacing arched Comanche leafs with much flatter Cherokee ones would lower your truck. An add-a-leaf on a Cherokee achieves lift in three ways: 1 - the thickness of the leaf add to lift, the same way that a lift block would do so. 2 - the extra leaf increases the spring rate, in essence making the spring pack stiffer causing it to drop less under the weight of the vehicle. 3 - they are usually arched more than the stock leafs, forcing the entire pack into more of an arch giving lift Using a Cherokee add-a-leaf on a Comanche, number 2 still applies. Number 1 does not and number 3 may or may not depending on the free arch of the add-a-leaf compared to the free arch of stock Comanche leafs. Therefore a 3" Cherokee add-a-leaf will not lift a Comanche anywhere near 3". Luckily, though the stock stance of a Comanche has a bit of rake to it, so the rear does not necessarily need to be lifted the same amount as the front. Hell Creek closed their leaf spring factory a couple of weeks ago. This leaves Rusty's, bastard packing, various add-a-leafs, having a spring shop re-arch your current springs, or going spring over axle. A lot of people convert the rear to spring over axle, coupled with 6.5" of front lift to run 33" tires with a nice stance and pretty good capabilities off road. One thing to keep in mind is that while a SOA conversion in the rear is simple and relatively inexpensive, correctly lifting the front of a Comanche (or Cherokee as the front suspension is identical) is neither. To do it properly will take a lot of parts and cost well in excess if $1000. A less expensive option is a "budget boost". 1.75" urethane pucks on top of your front coils, Chevy 2" drop shackles on the rear (they will lift a Cherokee about 2", or a Comanche a little under 1"), and a set of 31" tires. 31" tires can actually be used at stock ride height, while with 32" and larger tires fitment becomes a problem and lifting is needed. IMO, though, 31" tires look better with a budget boost than they do at completely stock ride height.

Even the 4.25 will stand out more than the stock rims.

Installed new rear main seal.