mvusse

I seem to remember your temp gauge reading hot despite trying a number of gauges (and sending units) even though laser thermo said temp was fine. Did something change since then? Oh, and sorry for butting in, but I couldn't let you talk to yourself forever...

After I installed my new rear springs, the back sits about 2" higher than the front. I just found out my 1.75" coil spacers arrived from Motion Offroad so will try to get those installed this weekend to make the truck sit level again. CB antenna I managed to tune with an swr below 3 (but not much below), so it will stay on my fender for now.

I guess FO SHO GO doesn't mean what I thought it did. We'll try to have fun without you then. 89elim, I believe you've been keeping track of the list, who's left?

It is quite possible the pistone rings have rusted to the cylinder walls. Probably no more than surface rust. Pour transmission fluid or a mix of transmission fluid and a solvent (acetone?) into each spark plug hole and let it sit overnight, and the next day carefully try to break loose the crank.

I believe he mentioned SOA. I'm pretty sure a soa swap will net more than 5" in the back, so in the end the truck will be raked forward even more. With the new(er) springs on the back, my truck looks like in the picture. Currently waiting for my front spacers to arrive in the mail to hopefully level it out a bit more. I think since I bought this Jeep I need to cut up my credit card before it gets me into trouble. With a soa kit, I would lift the front 6.5". Motion Offroad has a nice kit complete with crossover steering conversion, three link long arm conversion, bump stops, sway bar quick disco and longer brake lines.

Over the 21 year life of the truck, half my lug nuts have become one piece. As in the cover has come off. Still fit a socket perfectly, though. Just 1 size smaller than on the ones that do still have the cover. I have *never* in my life seen a lug nut (the actual nut, not the cover over the nut) get stripped by the correct size wrench/socket. I have -this was on my Suburban- bent and twisted a number of tools getting the lug nuts off to rotate my tires after the tire shop had torqued them to max capacity with a 1000 ft/lb air impact ratchet. They are only supposed to be tightened to 150 ft/lbs. I found out they had snapped (and replaced) one of the studs without telling me about that. There is no way to press out the studs with the front hub on the car, which means they have had to take it off. No wonder it took them 3 hours to mount 4 tires... In the end I got them loose by my 190 pounds jumping on the end of a 6 foot pipe on a breaker bar. Multiple jumps to get each loose. After that I had a little talk to the manager, and after I threatened to report them to the local BBB, of which they were a member, they replaced all studs in case they had stretched them. Never go back to that place.

I would either disconnect the hose at the tank, or take the cap off the tank.

Black. No question about it.

Yeah, back in Europe when I was a kid the people across the street were very conservative. They wouldn't let their kids watch Tom and Jerry because it promoted violence. A few years later they got rid of their TV altogether. :nuts: And this was in the 70s!

I thought those radius arms looked a lot like Ford. Now I know why.

Last time I played with a spud cannon was 15 years or so ago. Using half frozen potatoes we shot one through both side of a porta-john, killed a few ground hogs and when shot at a dumpster from ~100 feet away it just left a 3' wet spot. No potatoe remains to be found. Those were the times...

Keystone.

I can't remember the name anymore, but there's a chain of body supply stores that has among other things, fenders for $29 new. And OceanstateJeeps sells complete header assemblies on Ebay every 2 weeks or so. Header panel, grill, headlight doors, lenses, bulbs and wiring harness complete for less than you added up to. I know he sells pre 97, but might also have 97+

When I have my axle at full droop with stock leafs/shackles, the rubber brake line going to the axle is tight. With the drop shackles, you might have to get a longer brake line. Also, if you still have the load sensing rear brake valve, with the vehicle sitting higher, that valve thinks you have less weight, and will lower your rear brake pressure. You may want to think about a way to solve that as well.

If you bring in your own tires they charge $12 per tire, compared to the going rate in the area of $15 to $20. When you buy tires from them they'll mount them for free, but I'm sure "free" means the cost is figured into the tire price. Still, 4 brand new P235/75R15 Extra Load Range tires for $89 a piece and a used one off one of my old Ford rims mounted on the spare Jeep rim for free, including new valve stems, new valve cores and a total of 5 baggies if ceramic beads (one per wheel) I think was a pretty good deal. So far I've been happy with the balance, but I'm curious what peoples experience has been, not only with balance, but also fuel mileage and tread life.

When I was younger (and married) I wanted to buy one, but my wife wouldn't let me for fear I'd kill myself doing something stupid in it. She was probably right. Are you aware a 300 hp 4.6l Northstar out of a Cadillac fits in that engine bay? Imagine a 300 hp engine in a less than 3000 pound car...

Last week I got a set of new tires installed, and didn't see any weights on the outside of the rim. Okay, I thought, since they are (OEM) custom rims, maybe they just put them on the inside like they did on the Suburban. Then last night I went to check the air pressure, and one of the valves stuck open. Put the little cap back on to temporarily plug the leak and drove to the tire place today. Turns out they don't use weights, but instead dump a bunch of little beads inside the tire to dynamically keep it balanced even as the tire wears down. Some of the beads had gotten stuck in the valve core, holding it open. Tire guy said before checking the pressure I should blow some air into the tire to clear any beads away from the valve. My question is: what is everyones opinion of using the beads as opposed to weights? Pros? Cons?

If it's $100 a piece it is a pretty good deal. If it's $100 total for the two, jump all over it before someone else does.

It could help, as could air adjustable shocks, but do you really trust the shock mounts to be weight carrying? I just replaced my old broken 132,000 mile 87 springs with old unbroken 104,000 mile 88 springs and gained almost 3" of lift. Or rather, eliminated 3" of sag.

Front rear shackles? There is nothing front about shackles on our trucks. Front suspension is coil, rear suspension only has shackles on the rear of the springs. (with shackles on both ends your rear axle would move front to back and your springs would flop up and down). As for replacing the shackles, I just replaced the springs ion my 21 year old Ohio (as in rust belt) truck, and had no problem getting the bolts loose with a breaker bar and extension pipe. Jack up the truck by the frame until both rear wheels are barely touching the ground to unload the springs, which in turn will take the weight of the bolts so they will come out easier after taking the nuts off, and SET THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE ON JACK STANDS. NEVER work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Reinstall with new bolts, tightened to 109 ft/lbs of torque. Sorry, can't tell you what size, I just went to Fastenall and compared the old ones to new ones, but do know they were metric.

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble. The moment you go to long arms, you don't have a stock setup any more.

On you url you have the closing tag (preceded with a backslash) and the opening tag (no slash) reversed. Spaces don't have any effect.

Messed with the CB antenna set up again. Reinstalled the 102", this time with a length of fishing line tied to the top. Tested swr between 1.3 and 1.4. I then arched it down to the corner of the bed, and tested it again. Well above 3! Let it back up: between 1.3 and 1.4. So no go. Arching an antenna down affects the swr significantly. I'm planning to go a a nearby truck stop this afternoon that has a CB shop to see if they happen to have a roof mount on the shelf.

For headers to do what they were designed for, each pipe has to be the same length. That's why they usually end up looking like a pretzel. The one shown in the picture will be no better than a stock manifold, other than it probably radiates more hot air into the engine bay.

X2