mvusse

Low fuel pressure?

If you do, find a better transmission. He blew up 3 or 4 AX5s with that engine.

If this is for real, the only thing I got to say is "holy $#!&!"

My 87 Comanche owner's manual (with 231), flat towing instructions: Recreational Towing (Behind Motorhome, etc.) 1. Shift transfer case to 2H and check that the 4wd light goes out. 2. Drive vehicle 10 ft. rearward and then 10 ft. forward to make sure the axle is disengaged. 3. Shift transmission to neutral. 4. Turn off the engine with the ignition key in the unlocked off position. 5. Shift the transfer case lever from 2H to N (Neutral) position. 6. Shift manual transmission into gear or automatic transmission into Park. 7. Attach vehicle to the tow vehicle with tow bar. This means transmission in Park, transfer case in Neutral, front axle disengaged, both drive shafts in place.

If it's still available, I'd get the 94XJ to swap in the 4.0 and everything else that goes with it.

A 4.0 HO has an ignition system based on a Chrysler ECM, the older 4.0 has an ignition system based on a Renix ECM. There are other changes on the HO also, to provide better airflow through the heads, a little different cam and some other stuff. The 1987 4.0 makes 173 hp. 88 through 90 makes 177 through larger fuel injectors, and the HO ones make 190 with the torque peak a bit higher I believe. Mechanically, they are basically still the same engine, and you could start an endless debate about which one is actually better. A bigger problem is that the 86 fire wall was never designed for a 4.0, meaning you may have to make a 1/2" or 3/4" modification with a hammer to make the engine clear it. Still not a terribly big problem...

I believe the D44 front is a D44 housing with D30 axles. Not really worth it unless you get a real good deal. If the ZJ is coil sprung all around, like I seem to remember it is, the rear will have to have a little work to bolt up to a leaf spring. As well as other crap that may or may not be in the way and might need to be cut off, like brackets for the 4 link and such. But since I never actually looked underneath a ZJ, I don't know any of this for sure.

If I remember correctly, 2057 and 1157 are two filament bulbs, with two contacts on the bottom; kinda like two bulbs in one. A 1156 is a single filament bulb with a single contact on the bottom.

Actually, if you spin one side with the other side not moving, you'd have to spin it around twice.

Now that one I like!

Shouldn't. If you're welding on perches, you can make sure your pinion angle is still the same. Possibly a little higher as spring over allows more spring wrap/axle wrap. If you go like 1 or 2 degrees higher, it will probably be close to perfect under load when driving. Our trucks are long enough that you don't have to worry about too steep an angle on the U-joints. But under normal driving conditions, with single U-joints on each end of the drive shaft, each end (joint) should be at the same angle.

Neah, just a long extension pipe on your breaker bar. The only bolts (or bolt like things) I have broken so far are brake lines where they were rusted to the flair nuts. Even with 21 years of Ohio rust I have managed to loosen every bolt or nut so far without breaking. I did recently snap a wheel stud when TIGHTENING a lug nut. That was with my breaker bar and short extension pipe.

Another plus for FI is you don't have to worry about angles and your float bowl. As long as the fuel pump can suck fuel out of the tank, it will run equally well no matter what angle your vehicle is on. I would go with the 700r4 instead of the 400. It is plenty strong enough for a truck as light as a Comanche. Plus, when crawling you should use your transfer case low range any way, which will lessen the strain on the tranny even more. The added overdrive would be nice for highway driving.

I am going against what Jeepco said, and suggest you DO get the transfer case drop kit. The kit you listed uses lift shackles. These will angle your rear pinion angle up, which *could* cause vibration. It did in my case. The transfer case drop kit will angle the transfer case downward some, getting the transfer case output angle and the rear pinion angle closer to parallel to minimize this problem.

If you'd keep everything else the same, shaving the head and the deck would INCREASE compression. You could run a supercharger without lowering compression, by injecting water into the air/fuel mixture to slow combustion. Just make sure you never run out of water as you'd have instant detonation, possibly bad enough to blow through a piston. A number of people with Supras do this.

ASSUMING they would do this, it would make sense to rebrand the Dakota as a Comanche, the RAM as a J-series and the Durango as a Wagoneer. But naming a Dakota a Comanche would be a heck of a nut shot, considering the Comanche was killed off in favor of the Dakota.

:huh???:

Filled up last night at $1.97, so today it dropped to $1.93 :(

Crud! Forgot about WJ arms. Should have mentioned them as well.

Which track bar drob bracket are you refering to to be wary of?? That one. ANY track bar drop bracket can cause issues. Bump steer can be solved by a matching pitman arm drop bracket, but that would cause even more stress to the frame (through the steering box). To cope with that stress, the frame can be reinforced, and/or a brace added to run to the other frame bar, but in the end, what looked like an inexpensive solution gets more expensive than the alternative: using an adjustable control arm.

I run 235/75R15 on stock 10 spoke 15x7 rims and before the current lift, when I just had 1.75" spacers in front, they would rub the stock control arms at full lock, but just barely. After market adjustable control arms, although stronger, are also narrower since they are tubular. With these you can probably run 30x9.5" without any rubbing at all.

$1.97

Be wary of the track bar drop bracket. If you use it, your track bar and the steering center link will not be parallel any more, causing bump steer. Also, the drop bracket and resulting leverage of the track bar can cause frame damage around the bracket. After 4.5" of lift, a long arm kit and adjustable track bar are recommended. You can do without the long arm kit, either by using drop brackets or using longer (adjustable) control arms, but in my opinion a longer (adjustable) track bar is the answer, not a track bar drop bracket.

Check the ground at your front and rear bulbs. It sounds like there's no ground just about anywhere.

I'd still sell you my Suburban :D But if you are going to tow 5000 pounds regularly, I'd look into a diesel. Either a full size SUV or crew cab pickup truck.