mvusse

And that's assuming the seller knew. If he was not the original owner, who knows?

Yes, the fenders and doors (front doors from a 4 door XJ) interchange. The only difference I have found is the little rubber block on the fender that the hood closes against is in a little different spot on some years. But a Dremel made it fit quickly. 2 door Cherokees have longer doors that don't fit.

My 94 Suburban has that light, but it does not have a magnetic base. Or it does and I never knew it did. Either way it's too cold outside right now to check.

I just used a bunch of little (1/3x3/4 I believe) bolts, twice as many washers and nylon lock nuts.

Also possible he got the outside of the radiator caked up with mud so air can't flow through it. but overheating THAT fast my bet is on a cracked head gasket.

The XJ has an open box that directs air into a tube (#2 in the picture) and vents through the two little grills on the back corners of the console. That is for heat for back seat passengers. Since MJs don't have back seats, you would want to close it off, or try to vent it to the sides for the driver/passenger feet. I haven't had my center console off to see what it looks like in an MJ, but we've had my buddy's XJ's off to trace down non working power seats. Turns out there's a wiring harness underneath the center console that had some contacts rotted away. Spliced in a jumper across the harness and presto. But I'm getting off-topic here.

I was just semi randomly browsing the web and came across the specs for Robbie Gordon's Corvette powered Dakar Hummer. 37x14.50R15 tires on 15x6.5 wheels with integral bead locks. So the tires are 8" wider than the wheels (more than twice as wide) AND the wheels have bead locks. Guess he wants to be sure he won't pop a bead... I wonder what pressure he runs running over rocky terrain or desert sand at 100mph.

Is it possible one of the leafs was added and is not original? That being why the bolt was missing in the first place? I'm pretty sure in a stock spring pack, there's a sleeve around the bolt to make sure the bolt can be tightened without risking the ends of the clamp being bent inwards. if the bolt doesn't even fit without a sleeve, I'm guessing there's one more leaf than there's supposed to be.

You know, an old friend of mine in Canada told me over the holidays he was planning to change his shed into a chicken coop and have some chickens. He lives in a city also. I thought he was :nuts: , but now I find out it's actually becoming quite popular.

One piece of advise: when you have the garage floor poured, have it set up for radiant floor heating,as in insulation below the concrete and the plumbing in place. believe you me, it is nice to have, and even if you don't have the money to have the system installed now, at least the floor is ready for when you do. Only other way to do it is to demolish the floor and pour a new one.

Glad to hear you were successful and welcome to the club. So what's next? Lift? I think we have only 3 active threads right now from people wanting to/getting ready to lift, we need more...

35 will not fit without trimming the fenders. I believe even with 33s you may have to do some (minimal) trimming on the front. It might be okay sitting on flat ground, but when flexing the suspension while having the front wheels turned, or even leaning out of a turn on the street you may have issues at the front of the front fenders. Ask 89eliminator to be sure, as he runs (used to run?) 6.5" lift, 33" tires, but no cutting that I know of.

Don't know about ours as I don't have one, but most engine compartment lights (all the ones mounted on the underside of the hood) have a gravity switch. Hood is horizontal (closed), light is out. Hood is diagonal (open) light comes on.

He's in Canada. For some reason anything in Canada automatically costs double what it does here.

SOA will give you closer to 6.5" lift, not 4.5" so you'd end up with a lot of rake. But yeah, don't even consider buying anything Rusty's.

A SYE is not needed on a Comanche, longer drive shaft may or may not be needed. I know it is not needed at 4.5". To match 6.5" lift with 4wd rear springs you'd need ~6.5" lift up front. If using 2wd rear springs you'd need ~5.5" up front to match. Lifting the front is exactly the same as on a Cherokee.

When we mention a long arm kit, we mean for the front. So a 6.5" lift with long arms for the front, to match SOA in the rear. Cherokees are already soa, so to lift the back of the Cherokee 6.5" to match a 6.5" front lift means lift blocks, new shackles, new springs or a combination thereof. In a Comanche all you do is move your springs from underneath the axle to over top of the axle. You will not have an extra set rear leafs springs to sell. And Cherokee leaf springs will not work on a Comanche. They are not the correct length. So do what Clayton says, SOA rear, and the front part of his 6.5" lift kit. Or go with the MO 6.5" kit, which is tailored for a Comanche. I have never had a problem with any of their products.

That button is a flash animation. Not all browsers on all platforms always have flash installed. I agree, and it would be trivial to link the logo image to the forums.

I used to run 235/75R15 with minimal running on the lower control arms at full lock steering. This can be cured by after market or Grand Cherokee control arms, wheels with a bit more backspacing, or extending the steering stops on the axle. 9.5x30 should work, as it is pretty much the exact same size, 9.5x31 might also work but is a difficult size to find. 10.5x31 would definitely need less backspacing, but might cause issues with the fenders or fender liners under full flex as my tires would come within a fraction of an inch when fully stuffed. 31s with a budget lift (1.75" spacers in front, longer shackles in the rear) should work.

The 86 2.5l has throttle body fuel injection. Only the 2.8l Chevy V6 was carburated.

The drive shaft is long enough that you don't need to use a slip yoke eliminator, although having one does have a few advantages, like being able to take the rear drive shaft out without losing transfer case fluid, or running a drive shaft with an slip joint in the middle (which is actually needed, not optional, when using a SYE,) taking care of drive shaft length issues. Do NOT use a drop pitman arm, as this will cause the drag link and track bar to not be parallel causing bump steer. On top of that it adds enough stress to the steering box that it may actually cause the frame to fail in that area. It sounds like you pretty much have everything you need, except for longer shocks. You may find the ride a bit harsh with the steep angle on the control arms, which can be helped with drop brackets or a long arm kit, but you'd have to decide for yourself if you need them or not. They both have advantages and disadvantages. A longer drive shaft may or may not be needed. I currently run 4.5", but have enough travel in my rear shocks to allow the axle to move up (from weight in the bed) far enough that a longer drive shaft, even 1/2", could cause internal transfer case damage. A SYE would take care if this. Good luck and don't forget to start a project thread with lots of pictures, before during and after.

The Chevy 2.8 in your truck and the Chevy 3.4 out of a Camaro are the same block with different insides. Should be a straight bolt-in. More hp, more torque, better fuel economy. Is it worth it to replace a perfectly fine 2.8? I don't know. I do know the 2.8 makes just barely more torque and less hp than the 2.5l 4 cylinder.

I don't see it. Then again, I also stand a full foot taller than him.

Pat, if you do add 1.5" lift (8" total), you got stability issues to worry about. Trucks perform better when the wheel side is down instead of sideways or up.

Sounds like he torque converter wasn't locking up, or possibly missing 4th gear.