mvusse

I was not aware of Selec-Trac ever being a stock option in a Comanche. Unless I'm wrong, the 207 is the correct one for your truck. You can unbolt the transfer cases and set them side by side to compare case length and input shafts. Even IF the inputs are different, you can swap the case and transmission as a combo.

I don't know of other people, but in my case lifting the front to match SOA, and running 33x12.50s, while looking nice, has opened up a *bunch* of cans of worms (front locker may also be a contributing factor). Every inherent strength limitations of the unibody "frame" and other weak points are making themselves known. I'm so busy fixing/improving those problems that I'm still running the D35 even though I have had a 8.25 sitting in my drive way for going on 2 months now. A set of disc brakes to go on it are about 2 feet away from it in a pile. Just no time to work on the axle.

The most redneck way I have personally witnessed to pop a bead was to jack up the truck to take the tire off, then lay the tire under the truck with a 4x6 on it against the rim. Line it up with the frame and drop the truck down onto it. Then jack it back up to retrieve the tire. :nuts: Putting a board on it and drive a vehicle on it sounds lot more controlled. Or you could go to harbor freight and buy a bead breaker. They only cost like $40.

I believe 89Eliminator runs 33x10.50 tires. Don't know what brand, though. JeepcoMJ might also. I like the wider footprint of my 12.50s. Outsides track a little wider for more stability. They do cause clearance issues, though, as they are too wide to want to stuff in the front. Sheet metal gets in the way. I did some mods, and will do some more cutting before I reinstall the flares after I get my frame/steering box problem fixed.

That is the plan for when this one completely falls apart underneath me. For now this truck is still useful to me, showing me all the weak spots one at a time.

I'll trade you straight up. my front axle for your rear one. :brows:

Have been hearing some creaking in the front for a bit now, thinking it was suspension parts. Then yesterday on the way home (after forklift flex to check some remaining clearance issues) the steering felt loose, and there was wobble. Side to side wobble, but not severe enough to be called DW. I would probably think it was DW if I had not experienced actual DW before. Obvious culprit would be the track bar. But all seems to be tight. I then do a thorough examination of the entire steering and front suspension systems, as well as the frame. THE #@%&$#* FRAME RIPPED RIGHT OVER TOP OF A STEERING BOX BOLT! :headpop: :fs1: :ack: :grrrr: :fs2: My tow hook bracket and sway bar bracket both straddle the rip, helping hold it together and (hopefully) preventing it from ripping further. Truck will be parked until this is fixed. Current plan is to cut two pieces of 1/4 steel, and sandwich the frame between them from the very front, back up to the tract bar bracket. Problem is, Saturday I have a cook out to go to, Sunday is my oldest daughter's graduation, I need to get the Strasburg Corn Fest web pages updated and I'm supposed to take my POS off road next weekend.

Have been hearing some creaking in the front for a bit now, thinking it was suspension parts. Then yesterday on the way home (after forklift flex to check some remaining clearance issues) the steering felt loose, and there was wobble. Side to side wobble, but not severe enough to be called DW. I would probably think it was DW if I had not experienced actual DW before. Obvious culprit would be the track bar. But all seems to be tight. I then do a thorough examination of the entire steering and front suspension systems, as well as the frame. THE #@%&$#* FRAME RIPPED RIGHT OVER TOP OF A STEERING BOX BOLT! :headpop: :fs1: :ack: :grrrr: :fs2: My tow hook bracket and sway bar bracket both straddle the rip, helping hold it together and (hopefully) preventing it from ripping further. Truck will be parked until this is fixed. Current plan is to cut two pieces of 1/4 steel, and sandwich the frame between them from the very front, back up to the tract bar bracket. Problem is, Saturday I have a cook out to go to, Sunday is my oldest daughter's graduation, I need to get the Strasburg Corn Fest web pages updated and I'm supposed to take my POS off road next weekend.

Ventured out onto the pink trail?

Yes, he was at Badlands when we were there for the Fall Crawl.

Well, Saturday I painted the other fender and header panel. Did the grill flat black as an experiment, but will redo it again gloss. Flat black looks more grey than black. Sunday I went to pull-a-part. Alternator went out halfway there. It's been acting up since it spent a few hours submerged last time off road, yesterday it completely gave up the ghost. Decided to head on to the JY as I have a pretty good battery, and got a sunburn on top of my head pulling parts. Score: Complete ZJ rear disc brake assembly, both left and right, with almost brand new rotors and pads. Parking brake shoes are shot, however. $41.15 Alternator with warranty: $18.30 FM Antenna: $2.99 And for a buddy: 2 XJ tail gate shocks 1 wiper delay module I installed the FM antenna yesterday. Today I installed the new alternator, but not in the stock location. Instead I stuck it on top where the AC compressor would normally mount. I have no AC, so the only thing there is an idler pulley. Took some nuts and bolts from the hardware store, and a piece of steel, angle grinder with cutting wheel, bench grinder and drill to make some custom brackets. Then went to Autozone and got a shorter belt (770K6). Sorry, no pictures as my camera cable went kaput. I got pictures, but no way to get them to the computer.

Well, Saturday I painted the other fender and header panel. Did the grill flat black as an experiment, but will redo it again gloss. Flat black looks more grey than black. Sunday I went to pull-a-part. Alternator went out halfway there. It's been acting up since it spent a few hours submerged last time off road, yesterday it completely gave up the ghost. Decided to head on to the JY as I have a pretty good battery, and got a sunburn on top of my head pulling parts. Score: Complete ZJ rear disc brake assembly, both left and right, with almost brand new rotors and pads. Parking brake shoes are shot, however. $41.15 Alternator with warranty: $18.30 FM Antenna: $2.99 And for a buddy: 2 XJ tail gate shocks 1 wiper delay module I installed the FM antenna yesterday. Today I installed the new alternator, but not in the stock location. Instead I stuck it on top where the AC compressor would normally mount. I have no AC, so the only thing there is an idler pulley. Took some nuts and bolts from the hardware store, and a piece of steel, angle grinder with cutting wheel, bench grinder and drill to make some custom brackets. Then went to Autozone and got a shorter belt (770K6). Sorry, no pictures as my camera cable went kaput. I got pictures, but no way to get them to the computer.

Buy a bead breaker. You might be able to replace it without removing the tire from the rim. If not, buy a good tire spoon as well. But going to a tire shop is cheaper and WAY easier.

I think he miscounted the number of 0s on the end.

I have a Garmin Etrex, the yellow base model. First one I used for like 2 years. I then gave it to my girlfriend and bought another one (new version with WAAS capability) for $80. Still use it to this day, about 3 years so far. For navigation I hook it up to my laptop. For geocaching it is held in my hand. In the car it runs off the car power, saves on batteries. Odometer on it reads 24762.41 miles.

My Olds 98 was called "The Bomb", as named by my late father in law. The Geo Prizm was called "The Geo". The F100 that replaced the Olds was name "Blue Bomb", again by late father in law. Suburban was "The Burb". Comanche is "Bush Pig" Cherokee has yet to be named.

I didn't pay ANY sales tax to get the XJ plated. I traded it for the Suburban, we both put $0 for the sale price on the title. BMV asked "Why $0?" I answered "Because I traded it for another car." They were okay with that.

Took the teal front fender off, removed CB antenna, flare and skirt and painted it black. Reinstalled. Now I need to find the old FM antenna stuff to install it again. CB antenna is going to the middle of the roof.Skirt and flare are going back on once I decide if I want to paint the flares or not. Before Tuesday I intent to have both front fenders, header panel with grill etc, and bumper all matching. Will probably take Sunday off to go to pull-a-part for ZJ rear brakes, spare 29 spline 8.25 shaft, WJ rear view mirror for buddy, XJ tailgate shocks and wiper delay module for other buddy, and possibly full gauge cluster with tach for my 94 XJ.

I use the plain old Coastal 85W90. But the vent tube broke off my axle, so I change it out due to water in it pretty much monthly, after each wheeling trip. Have an 8.25" that's going in at some point (just needs some parts), so I never bothered to drill it out and tap in a new tube.

3.73 can sometimes be found in a Grand Cherokee with the towing package. But only the front axle would work, the rear would be set up for a 5 link coil spring suspension. 4.10 is very common on 4 cylinder (2.5 Litre) Comanches and Cherokees with a 5 speed stick shift. And yes, you would most likely be giving up your LSD. 4.10 is also a common ratio for the much stronger, but a bit narrower Ford 8.8 out of mid/late 90s Exploders, and these can come with LSD also. But in my opinion, for s stick shift 4.0 with 29" tires, 4.10 is way too high a ratio. If you really do want to go up, I would not go higher than 3.55. That can be found in any 4.0/auto. If you get a rear axle out of a hard to find Comanche you would not have to weld on new perches. If you can find an impossible to find metric tonne one, it would have a D44 in the rear. Also a lot of 91 and 92s have a D44 under them. Best choice in my opinion is to get the HP Dana 30 front axle out of an XJ with ABS. High pinion, but stronger u-joints. Get a rear 29 spline 8.25" out of a 97 or newer XJ, cut off the perches and shock mounts, and have new perches welded on in the correct location. If you need more traction, spend $300 on an Aussie locker for the rear, or $230 for the front. Or both :eek:

The only hydraulic part in there is a double ended piston called a wheel cylinder. And they are not very expensive. Cheaper than shoes or drums.

2.28

Some friendly advice: Stay FAR, FAR away from Rusty's Offroad products. They are junk.

My Cherokee has 3.07 gears with a 4 litre and AX15 5 speed. I can smoke the tires in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. 4th I can't, but driving like that I'm already doing 70 by the time I hit 4th. I can put down a skid mark in 1st for well over 300 feet. More commonly, I shift early. It has no trouble cruising 20mph in the alley in 3rd, 30mph on side streets in 4th and 40mph on the main drag in 5th. That's with 235/75R15 tires, which are roughly equal to a 29x9.50. My Comanche has the 4.0 with an AW4 4 speed automatic and 3.55 gears. That combination worked good with the 235/75R15 tires that came with it when I bought it, but sucks on the freeway now that I run 33x12.50s. Cruising around town is not that bad, though, and I can still peel out from a still stand in a straight line -even if only for 20 feet or so. Will be going to 4.10 at some point in time. The current 3.55s will end up going under the Cherokee when it gets bigger tires.