mvusse

The ballast resistor is not to decrease the pressure. It is to decrease the sounds from the noisy pump. It is bypassed at start up and full throttle, and never existed in 87, although they used the same pump. The fuel pressure is regulated by a valve on the rail, with the excess pressure bled back to the tank.

The way they are designed, most parking brakes (including our's) do not hold nearly as well in reverse as they do forwards. Inherent design flaw. Make sure the main brakes are adjusted properly, as the self adjusting mechanism seldom works as designed. AFTER that adjust the parking brake at the equalizer. That's about all you can do.

And you've had your truck how long? :rotf: :D :yes: :dunce: :rotf:

If you want to go on the cheap, buy some shock extensions for the front ones. They cost like $5.

Because we are too cheap to pay top dollar.

When I open the those windows, and the rear window, the air flows in through the rear, and out the sides. Installing my topper makes the airflow stronger.

My Comanche used to crank what I considered long, but seems normal for a Renix. Then last summer, after shutting it off, and trying to restart after 10 minutes or more it some times had trouble starting. Sometimes took 3 attempts, cranking it 15 seconds at each attempt. Since then the problem has persisted and become more frequently, until it always happened . Here's what I found out since then: Sitting for a week or longer, it starts like it used to: crank 5 seconds or so and it starts up. Sitting overnight it starts immediately. Fraction of a second Sitting between 15 minutes and an hour or two it will crank and crank and crank. Taking up to three attempts to start. However, if I put the pedal to the floor while attempting to start, it starts like it used to, after 5 seconds or so. Immediate restarts, within a minute of shutdown, fires up immediately. And in my case I'm guessing leaky injector(s). Have been planning to upgrade them since I bought her in February of 08, just never had the money as it always needed spent on other stuff. but mine is a Renix, it's supposed to crank for a few seconds before start.

I have no cruise or tilt either, but did have full gauges, minus tach. I now have full gauges plus tach. I will try to remember to take a picture of the door storage tomorrow in daylight. No promises, though, as I got a bunch of personal $#!& on my mind right now.

Like a map holder in the bottom of the door.

I also believe the doors with the smaller arm rest with handle built in did not have a storage compartment. At least my 94 XJ does not. The title says SE, but the decals on the fenders say Pioneer, just like my MJ.

I replumbed the rear brakes. Needed shorter brake lines because the disc calipers have rubber hoses coming off them to allow movement, where on the old drum brakes the hard line went all the way to the cylinder. I measured 16" on the one side and 42" on the other side. closest size above 16" was 20", which is what the old one was, so decided to reuse it. Closest above 42" was 51". I was afraid 40" would be too short, but 51" is way to long, so I got a 12" and a 30" as well as a coupler. Also bought two new bleeder screws. Go to connect the new lines and find out the little block on the bottom of the flex hose is cross threaded on one side. Don't know how I got the old line to seal, but the new one wouldn't, and it messed up the threads. So back to NAPA for another 12" line, as well as a 95 Dakota rear hose. Go to replace it, and I strip the nut on the 20" line coming off the other side of it. Back to NAPA.... good thing it's only one block away and across the street. Last time I did brakes one piece at a time I ended up with an all new line front to back before pieces quit failing, and spending more on gas than brake lines driving to and from Advance as my NAPA is not open on Sundays. So now I havd a new rear hose and all new hard lines going to the wheels, or at leas to the flex hoses coming off the calipers on the wheels. Next up: Dual diaphragm booster upgrade!

There is a mark on the glass where the handle used to be, but it's missing. The hockey stick style door handles, the handle itself that you close the door by is at a 45 degree angle. Off the bottom of it comes an arm rest that continues to the back edge of the door.

I had the same problem, twice (once each in MJ and XJ), and solved it by reusing the old pulley, and just replacing the bearing. It presses in and out quite easily, and is available from Tractor Supply (TSC) for less than $7. IIRC, the part number is 6305, but be warned there are two different bearings with that number. Both are the same thickness and outside diameter, but one has a 17mm (not quite 11/16, a bit bigger than 5/8) hole, and one has a 5/8. TSC sells both, make sure you get the right one. I'm pretty sure both my vehicles used the 17mm, but someone else on here is sure he needed 5/8.

My pioneer has PS and bucket seats, but no AC. It does have the 3 piece slider, and BLACK interior with the long hockey stick door handles

There's no option for no preference, so I can't cat my vote. I drive my MJ on the street and wheel it, it's an auto. I drive my XJ and have wheeled it once, bone stock, when my daughter was wheeling the MJ. It's a stick. They both have advantaged and disadvantages both on and off road. I really don't think one is better than the other. The only time I dislike my stick is when I have my tea mug in my hand (no cup holders, WTF is up with that?), have to turn the brights off because of an oncoming car, while being in the middle of a shift in a turn. Not enough hands.

When the back corner of my truck was hit, I was quoted $2200 to fix it. Nobody makes bed sides for Comanches any more. The body shop would have to make a new side from a sheet of metal. If the dent can be pulled out without replacing sheet metal, and not needing paint, $800 might be right. Without seeing the damage myself, I might offer $1000, tops. $2900 for any Comanche is too much unless it looks like a show truck (89eliminator, $500MJ, MJBT4, Hornbrod, ...) Wait 6 months, and see if he takes $800 for it. I imagine it'll still be sitting there.

Try a 2wd drive shaft if you can find one, and have it shortened.

Those look like stock control arms to me. They are not designed to clear high angles created by lift. Most after market control arms, be they adjustable or fixed, are made in such a way as to offer more clearance on the axle end.

They DO exist.... Now that I know they are out there, I want one!

At 6" of lift, with a short arm suspension, the control arms run at about 45 degrees. As the suspension flexes up, the front wheels will swing forward. As they drop down, they swing back. Among other things, this results in needing more fender clearance/more cutting to make tires fit. A long arm suspension the wheels don't move forwards/backwards nearly as much with up/down. Also, because of the longer arms and lesser angles, a lot more flex is possible without binding. With long enough shocks, it's not unlikely to have one wheel completely stuffed, while the other one hangs down low enough for the spring to be loose.

Don't know where the OP is from, but the 1992 has 5 years better chance of still having a floor.

Picked up my drive shaft today. Turned out the new one had a bend to it, so it had to be straightened first, upping the cost a bit. So straightened, cut to length, u joints and yoke installed and balanced for a grand total of $112.50. The Pig is back on the road! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

You can get a flange from an Exploder at the JY. I believe you'll have to use a 1310-1330 conversion u-joint to use your existing drive shaft, though.

Dropped of my new drive shaft at the shop to get cut to length, and then balanced as one unit with u-joints and yoke installed. Supposed to be ready around noon tomorrow :banana:

Except you need to place a shut off switch under the clutch.