mvusse

Don't have Renix engines with an auxiliary fan have a third one in the radiator? I believe the aux fan on the HO engines is controlled by the ECU based on the thermostat housing sensor's reading.

And JeepSkool broke the Ultimate Ranch Truck. Powerstroke diesel pushing a 10k pound trail truck busted a pinion and 11 1/4" ring gear in the rear diff. Also busted driver side rear window and put a nice dent in the sheet metal above and behind the window. Lesson learned on that one: Don't take a full size truck on a ledge trail narrow enough to force a Samurai into the rock face... I still plan on being to the first to do that trail without damage. Gonna duct tape some rolled up beach blankets to the back top driver side corner of the cab :brows:

With 4.5" lift springs, 1.75" spacers and the longest cheap shocks in the catalog running 33x12.50 tires on 8" wide rims with 4" backspacing I cut the front of the fenders straight level with the top of the bumper/bottom of lights, then at the edge of the flat part where the raised part for the flares starts. Then cut a little more off the bottom front corner as it was still catching at full stuff. have not decided on what to do for flares yet.

I got mine off Ebay for $27 including shipping. At the time it never occurred to me NAPA might have them... Bottle cracked just before crossing the Canadian border; coasted into a hotel parking lot where I refilled the cooling system after it had boiled dry, drove the last 90minutes to my parents' house. Ordered a new bottle while in Canada for the holidays, limped it home 350 miles, carrying 3 buckets of extra water in the bed, and the new bottle was waiting for me on the back porch :D

Changed the oil.

800 for a rebuild is a good price, but you can buy 8 used transmissions for that money. Or 14 if you have a pull-a-part nearby.

Bob, this guy is giving you a run for your money :D

After changing shoes every 2 months, while my front brakes still look almost new after 8 months, I deduced rear discs are a huge cost saving upgrade for any vehicle that sees mud and/or water off road.

The ZJ rear disc brakes do use backing plates. They double as dust shields for the main (disc) brakes, but they are backing plates for the parking brake, which is a tiny little drum brake inside the rotor hat. No backing plates/dust shields, and there's nothing for the parking brake to mount to.

Put the wheel spacers back on. Have a few hundred road miles on the new rear axle, drive shaft, brakes and suspension set up. Going to JeepSkool next weekend for a shakedown run, and then the Cable Creek Adventure the weekend after.

For our vehicles, no TC will bolt up to a 2wd transmission.

Fuel economy goes up with available torque, down with rpm, and down with air resistance. Those are the three main things to consider. Torque peak if good, lower rpm is good, lower air resistance (speed) is good. Add all three together, best economy is a bit under the torque peak in the highest gear available. From that point up to the torque peak will reduce it some; once past the torque peak it will take a nose dive because all three factors are now working against you. My personal experience, when I was still bone stock 4.0l, AW4 automatic, 3.55 gears, I got best mileage 60-65mph. Same drive train but 33" tires I now get my best mileage at 70-75mph. My 94 Cherokee (Chrysler) 4.0HO, AX15 stick, 3.07 gears stock seems to get it's best mileage around 75mph. On my wish list for both vehicles is cruise control.

I have the Custom 4x4 set up myself and have been very happy with them. They have been used (and abused) quite a bit and never a problem with them. The Hi Country set up looks nice also, and if I still needed front tow point on a Cherokee or Comanche, I would probably try them just so I could compare the two.

From what I hear, stay away from D-link. Personal experience by myself and a friend of mine says don't even think of Netgear; they have great signal strength, but drop packets all the time. I have installed a few Linksys units for people and businesses, and have nothing but good things to say about them. Fast, reliable, easy to set up, and a good company backing them (Cisco).

http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... roductId=7

Make you squeal like a pig, boy...

20 mile trips are not long enough to get optimal mileage, and you probably burned a few gallons off road while only covering 5 miles or so. Drive 200 miles or so straight on the highway ~60mph and I bet you'll see at least 20. Assuming you have a 4.0, try a set of new Ford injectors from precision. Much better spray pattern, resulting in better mileage and smoother idle for most people. Some have seen upwards of 15% improvement in mileage.

Might also have been a coincidence with the thermostat opening, allowing cooler coolant from the radiator into the engine. I can see the thermostat open and close just by watching the temp gauge go up and down. It will steadily climb to almost 210, then steadily drop to almost a full line below 210 before going back up. I run a 195 degree thermostat, which I believe is the correct temperature for this engine.

Also, all other things being equal, fuel usage goes up (against time) as rpms go up. Usable power goes down with rpms when past the torque peak. Take these two together, and after the torque peak, fuel economy takes a nose dive. Add to that the higher air resistance at the higher speed, and it makes sense. For a Renix era engine, the sweet spot seems to be around 2000-2200 rpm. Stock 4.0l engine, AW4 transmission and stock tires with 3.55 gears I could get 24mpg cruising at 60mph. Add to that a supposed 23.5 gallon tank that seems to hold 25+ gave me a radius of 600 miles. I have gone over 500 before filling up on occasion, and 400 miles with gas to spare multiple times. Surprisingly, when I added a 4.5" lift, mileage stayed the same. I guess shoe box aerodynamics are bad enough that the added lift makes no difference. Now with the same set up, safe for ~6.5" lift and 33x12.50 tires I get the best economy around 70-75mph. IIRC it's only about 18 mpg, though. I'm guessing that is because of increased air resistance at the higher speed, higher rolling resistance of the wider tires, and possibly stock gearing not being ideal for that size tire.

With my non CAD 94, and my converted 87 I completely forgot about the disconnect. :oops:

Contains both an 8mm and a 5/16 square drive, either of those should work.

Some transfer cases do not have a true neutral, but lock the front and rear drive shafts together in the neutral position. I know for a fact my 1987 231 does, have not yet tested my 94 231. No clue about the 207 or 242. Same technique still works, but you need to either also jack up a front wheel, or leave the transfer case in 2wd and put the transmission in neutral.

If the coolant looks rusty, he most likely used tap water. Tap water with iron in it (hard water) will turn rust brown. With a lot of iron will actually leave brown gunk all over the place. This is regardless of whether he used it straight or added antifreeze to it.