mvusse

I put my CB in the same place as CW.

There's a sock on the bottom of the fuel pump. It's a filter, just called differently. I would pull the pump and replace the sock. About $10. It's more work than replacing the in-line filter, but not too bad. Make sure the tank is no more than 1/2 full. No need to drop the tank or drive shaft, but removing the drive shaft does give you a lot more room to work under there and will make it much easier.

I've had my furnace on for going on two weeks now, and had to scrape my wind shield more than a week ago. And I'm SOUTH of you... I agree, this weather for this time of year is :nuts:

Seems tire balance is part of the problem, but not the whole story. You have at least one worn part on your front suspension that needs to be replaced. You can take a week to take everything apart and inspect it all, or just start throwing parts at it until you find it. Third option is to keep your speed below 65 and ignore it, but the problem will probably get worse until eventually hopefully it will be obvious what part(s) is/are to blame. When I say everything I mean literally everything. Strip it down to the tie rod ends and ball joints.

I have the Rough Country ones, and have been happy with them. Also, I wouldn't buy from Rusty's; too many horror stories about quality and customer service.

I used to fry alternators. May have something to do with the alternator being on the bottom of the engine bay, and my truck routinely being in water almost up to the air cleaner, as well as in mud about once a month. Alternator is now on top where the AC compressor would go if I had air. No more problems. 8)

BLACK INTERIOR!

I may not be American, but I do live and work here. I may not like a whole lot of the changes I've seen happen in the 16 years I've lived in this great country, but if you're not allowed to fly the American flag in America, that just takes the cake. "somebody might be offended" Give me a freaking break. By making that statement they personally offended a lot more people.

If I were you I'd borrow a full size truck and trailer, go on a vacation to TX and buy that lifted one for $2500.

Track bar 1/4 too long will shift the axle over not quite 1/4" too far to the passenger side. Alignment will center steering wheel. You adjust the length of the drag link for that. Adjusting the length of the tie rod adjusts toe. Caster angle is adjusted by shims behind lower control arms, or adjustable/non stock length control arms. There is no way to adjust caster without also affecting pinon angle, and to a degree camber. Camber is not adjustable. With a lift, and stock spec. caster, your pinion angle will be off. Correct pinion angle will throw the caster way off. You're going to have to find a happy median yourself. Toe in should be 0".

The most important one is missing. I don't see Jeep MJ listed! All MJ 5on4.5 1/2

Not that I'd want to put gas in it, but a 98 ZJ Limited with the 5.9l would be nice. Know nothing about the WJs, though.

Took it for a spin at Cable Creek. Holy off-camber, batman! They do not have a single trail that is within 20 degrees of flat. At one point I was so far off camber that even being at least 5 gallons down, gasoline came pouring out of my tank. Was afraid I'd flop or roll numerous times

You say the track bar is a new NAPA unit, but what about the track bar frame bracket? I have seen a LOT of these with elongated holes, allowing play no matter how new the track bar is and how tight you tighten it. But my first guess based on ^^^^ is the lower control arm bushings. Don't waste money on stock replacement bushings for the weak factory control arms. Get some after market adjustable control arms instead. Also, you did have a front alignment done after the lift, right? If not you have toe-in. Probably not enough to cause DW by itself, but possibly enough to push a marginal 20 year old suspension over the edge.

Are after market rims considered "other"? I run Cragar soft 8s. Less than $40 a piece, 15x8 with 4" back spacing.

I did #3, and did have a problem finding the seal mentioned in #2. After first buying a stock non-disconnect axle seal and finding out it didn't fit I researched the internet, and ordered one from NAPA. I was down for a few days tracking down what might work, and waiting for it to arrive, but well worth it. Single piece shafts with the larger joints are a LOT easier to find than 2 piece ones (95 YJ only, I believe). No more vacuum lines pulled off on the trail, and no more broken u joints.

~6.5" works best with most SOA set ups. I'm thinking at 8-8.5" the front will sit quite a bit higher than the rear. Some SOA kits come with only 5" front springs.

The screeching turns out to have been remains of the passenger side parking brake that blew apart. But since the parking brakes had never been hooked up anyway, I simply removed them. Who designed the ZJ rear brakes anyway? Main brake is disc, but parking brake is little drum inside the rotor hat :nuts:

Cling wrapped the driver door to act as a temporary window. I have an hour and a half drive to get to Cable Creek tomorrow morning and 60mph wind chill is pretty dang cold when it's 38 degrees outside. Also seem to have a screech from one of my rear disc brakes. Will investigate this afternoon.

Are you sure about the voltage? I though it read the direction of the current, and came on whenever the battery was being discharged. As in more power is being used than the alternator is delivering.

They make a plate/seal kit? I just cut a piece of 1/4 steel I had laying around, drilled 4 holes for the screws and used some RTV. One of my 297/760 shafts came out of a Cherokee, the other one out of a Grand.

If you have a spool, and you actuate the disco with a cable (posi lock), you can use it to lock/unlock your axle, kind of like a selectable locker. I have an Aussie locker in the front, planning on doing something like that for 4wd winter driving, but ended up converting to a single piece shaft and block off plate after the vacuum lines got snagged and pulled off on a trail for the third time.

No problems yet, with an Aussie, 760 joints, vac disco delete and 33" tires. Probably 200 trail miles and 5000 road miles with that set up thus far.

IIRC, 1/2x4, grade 8. I never sheared a bolt, but one of them started pulling through the frame, ripping a tear in the frame at the same time. Patched and plated inside and out now.

Cherokee one is mirror image from what we need. New ones don't exist any more.