mvusse

Any hardware store should sell cotter pins in any size you can imagine.

MO, I just read the specs on your 5" lift. It says 4.5" springs plus 0.75 spacers. That 0.75 spacer may make the difference. The problems I posted about was 4.5" springs only. 1.75" spacers more than solved it, 0.75 might have been enough (it seems to be in your case) but I used what I happened to have laying around.

28mpg out of a 4.0???

I ran 4.5" in the front for a short while running 33x12.50s and had problems with the wheel hitting either the back or front of the wheel well when steering on anything but a perfectly smooth road. I couldn't find a sweet spot in between. I then added 1.75" spacers and all was good. 33x11.50 or 33x10.50 should work. 35x12.50 will not, and I don't think there are any narrower 35s. I now run 6.25" up front (4.5" spring plus 1.75" spacers) and 35x12.50 tires. With this setup the 35s will need very aggressive bump stopping, or a LOT of cutting. Even with cutting, bump stopping is still needed to keep them from getting jammed into the wheel well.

Jeep is producing pickup trucks as we speak. Just not available to civilians (with a few exceptions): J8 Brute.

A digital multimeter set to a voltage scale has an incredibly high impedance. On the scale of a few mega ohms. Just a clock or radio pulling a few milli amps to not forget the time is more than enough to show the 12V between the battery post and the cable. If you're looking for a short, you need to look how much power is being drawn, not potential between a disconnected battery post and cable. For this you use the 10A setting, as Hornbrod already said.

You can not bolt a transfer case onto a 2wd transmission without changing the transmission output shaft and housing. It would be easiest to find a 4wd 2.5 4 cylinder or 2.8 V6 Cherokee 84 through 86 (possibly 90?) to use for parts. That way you have everything needed, including all the little detail parts, with the exception of the rear drive shaft. For that you'd probably need to have your 2wd shaft shortened.

:agree:

Put another dent in the frame. Right at the transfer case skid plate. That makes two now.

ECU (computer) is probably toast.

Some dash indicator lights coming on when opening the door may mean a grounding issue. Possibly burnt through the ground strap that goes to the firewall.

The 1.5" spacers? Yes.

Still don't like it. the rounded lines of the bed don't go with the squarish lines of the cab.

An additional reason you get less lift is that the Cherokee is SOA, so the thickness itself of the leaf adds to the lift. The Comanche is SUA, so the thickness does not add to the lift. Hell Creek has a discount for Comanche Club members. There's a sticky in the classifieds about it.

I ran them when my truck was still stock. Puts the rear wheels as close to the outside of the flares as the front wheels. Makes it look even.

Mine came off quite easily driving forward while it was leaning against a cliff side.

The spacers bolts to the studs on the axle, then the wheel bolts to the studs in the spacer. We're talking trucks here, not honda civics.

Everyone doing ball joints on a Cherokee or Comanche does that the first time. That includes myself.

They pop out of the bottom, not the top.

What you think are bushings are probably the dust covers. Pieces of rubber that are supposed to keep the grease in and dirt out.

I uses 1.5" spacers to get the rear to look the same as the front, because the body is wider at the rear. Worked well with my stock 10 spokes running P235/75R15, and also with my 15x8 soft 8s running both 33x12.50 and 35.12.50. These are running outside the wheel well, but it keeps them off the frame and inside of wheel well under flex.

This is mine. I believe it's an S10 cap made by A.R.E., but I'm not sure: And I came across this one a couple of years ago:

The solution to the Blasted TORX! screws is a set of Torx sockets. As for the hinges, the factory used shims between the doors and the hinges to align the doors.

I run ~8" lift in the rear on a lwb, and run a YJ slip yoke mainly because it is longer. That together with the nose on the new axle being 1" longer allowed me to keep using the old driveshaft, even though it was still 1" shorter than perfect. No binding issues at all, and don't think I would have them with the stock yoke either. I have had a new driveshaft made since then because I turned the original into a candy cane.

Should be a standard cotter pin. Stick it through the hole and bend both legs so it can't fall out.