mvusse

They are probably confusing the Chrysler emblem with the somewhat similar Mitsubishi emblem

At the very least 5". For most people 6.5" front is a good match, but ymmv.

I watched that on Youtube last December. I thought at the time it was from an old episode. Evidently somebody leaked it. I'd love to go on an adventure like that.

Between a floor jack to get it up and a winch to make sure it didn't fall over, we got it up high enough to stick one log under the frame and another one under the axle. That at least got it to where I could get the wheel out from under it and work on it. But working in 35 degree water when the air temp is about 50 sucks dead donkeys.

I have a feeling the ball joint got damaged when the wheel came off on the freeway. I've had DW since then, and the steering wheel has been off ~15 degrees. Now the truck is rock solid on the road again, and the steering wheel is lined up straight as well. I did a visual inspection of the joint back then, and in my non-expert opinion, it seemed fine. But what do I know?

Went wheeling at a friend's private property near Powhatan Point, OH. The morning started out good. Making a third vehicle fit meant I had to move the truck over closer to the garbage cans. This also means I can only pull out toward the left. Was not awake enough to remember and drove right over top of one of my garbage cans: At the property I came across this waterfall before I broke down: And then the end of my wheeling this weekend: Upper ball joint failed, lower dropped out. In the process I also lost a 3 week old axle shaft and u joint. This was a bit after noon on Saturday. The truck ended up parked there for ~27 hours. Nearest parts store (Advance) was 1 hour from here. Got new ball joints and a press, but they did not have any axle shafts in stock. Upper ball joint did not want to cooperate and I proceeded to break it. Ran out of daylight. Got up Sunday, had breakfast, helped a friend attempting to fix a leaking gas tank, spend another 2 hours (1 hour each way) to get another ball joint, but it turns out I bought the last one the day before. Continue on to Autozone a ways down the road, and get a new ball joint. They also had a CV shaft in stock, so I got it too. About 3:30 I finally had the truck back on 4 wheels and moving. In the process I fixed my recent death wobble, which evidently was caused by a bad ball joint and not the torn axle end bushing on the track bar.

Yes. As for me? I just finished up packing it up for a weekend camping/wheeling trip at a privately owned secret squirrel spot.

Depends on how far your current springs have sagged. It depending on axle tube diameter, perch height and spring pack thickness. IIRC, using Ruffstuff Specialties perches, stock spring pack and a Chrysler 8.25" will give you 5.5" over the same springs SUA. So with the same axle and perches you would be 5.5" higher than the new springs, plus how ever much the new springs lift above your old sagging current springs.

Good luck. everyone wants 4.56, nobody has it. They are rare.

I run aggressive 35" tires and a front locker on a D30. Abuse it more than I should without breakage so far. I did upgrade to shafts using the larger u joints, some Spicer 5-760x U joints (supposedly 40% stronger than the 5-297x) and got rid of the vacuum disconnect. In my opinion, a D44 would be overkill for a Comanche, although I would like to get rid of the unit bearings.

Some people from Jeepskool are going to Rausch Creek weekend of July 23. (Drive up Friday, wheel Saturday, drive home Sunday). Would be nice if I were not the only Comanche there...

DW and loose steering usually points to a problem with the track bar, or track bar frame bracket. More common than not an elongated hole in the bracket.

Might as well go with 97+ to get the better shafts/u joints. I priced them at pull a part. It's the ONLY part they have that is $$$.

Maybe that's why I can't find 92 2wdhubds for the new Cherokee. All stores on the internet come up with the same part number for 2wd as they do for 4wd. I don't know nearly as much about my 94 and 96 XJs yet as I learned about the 87 MJ. Thanks all.

Would a 4wd unit bearing (with a stub shaft in it) fit on a 2wd front axle? If it does, any reason NOT to do it?

I don't worry about it too much and run the Wally World generic fully synthetic 10W30 and Pur-One filters.

Gonna drive it for a few weeks to figure out what it needs and get to know it. Then park it except for trips to Canada and the like. The body is in great shape, not a speck of rust and the original paint job (metallic hunter green) with the clear coat still intact. Going to keep it like that. It will become my daughter's when she turns 16 in two and a half years. By that time it will be 4wd with a 242 transfer case for the full time 4wd option for winter driving. An inexperienced 16 year old driver in a rear wheel drive SUV in Ohio snow is a bad idea. I might eventually lift it between 2 and 3.5 inches and put on a set of 31s on the stock rims.

As named by Sarah: Sparkles. 4.0HO, 2wd, auto AC/Cruise/power everything, full gauge cluster with tach. NO RUST!

Years ago my daughter's then boyfriends's little sister had an off road go kart. She must have been ~9 at the time I think. Absolutely fearless in that thing. Her mother quit watching her ride it, as her heart would stop every few minutes...

The 120" wheel base is an advantage here. Wranglers are afraid of this hill because they can go over backwards

The last part of this hill is nearly a 12 foot vertical ledge and marks the end of the Mean Green trail. It has only been successfully completed twice before (winching doesn't count), both during Peterson's Ultimate Adventure last summer. I'm #3. I also believe this is where Rick Pewe (Peterson's 4wheel and off-road editor in chief) broke his Sterling 10.5 rear axle in the Ultimate Ranch Truck.

Nope.

The bumper was at JeepSkool, but in the back of Brett's (KiLnTiMe) truck. Sunday afternoon I removed the stock bumper and tow hook brackets, but didn't have enough time to get the new bumper on before the RoboRide. Don't know when I'll be back at JS, but whenever that will be, it will be on the truck.

Normal cost for that bumper without the hooks is $550. I worked out a deal, though, that involved trading my woodworking skills for their metalworking skills.

From Jawzjpcustoms. Awesome work!