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I got rid of mine for two reasons: 1 - I got tired of the vacuum lines getting snagged and pulled off when off road. Happened three times on two trips. 2 - Axles with the larger/stronger u-joints. Regarding number 2, I had been told that the larger u joints were available in a disconnect shaft from a 95 and 95 only YJ. Not true. The 95 YJ does use the larger u joints. It does not have a vacuum disconnect axle like the 87 through 94 ones do, though. Then 96 does not exist, and 97 - 06 is the TJ, also without a disconnect axle.

Correct on all three counts.

Looks like you guys had fun.

Spidertrax makes good quality hub centric spacers as well.

Do you realize the cab is unibody? As in the frame is part of the cab and they are not two separate pieces bolted together?

Yes, the front output shaft of the transfer case will be spinning with the drive shaft, but there's no load on it, and the transfer case has an oil pump driven by the rear output shaft, so it's all good. Locking the front axle will make it behave exactly like any 91 or newer the way it came from the factory.

I can only narrow it down to '88 to '92. So why could it not be an 87?

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The vacuum disconnect was a futile attempt to get better fuel mileage. Due to too many problems with it they did away with (in 91?). I noticed no measurable increase in fuel consumption after swapping in a stronger single piece shaft, essentially the same as locking the CAD. With the axle engaged the ring and pinion gears will spin, while the spiders gears hardly do. With the axle disengaged the ring and pinion gears do not spin, but the spider gears will spin like mad. As long as the oil is clean and up to level neither of those should wear out no matter what. The drive shaft will spin, though, causing more wear on the u joints. But how often have people needed to replace u joints on the rear drive shaft that spins all the time? Okay, I admit, I replace u joints all the time, but I abuse my truck off road monthly and with my daughter driving it spends probably 10 miles or more (5+ hours) submerged up to or past the doors in water or mud each month.

I would look for an MJ or XJ D44 if you can find one. If not, settle for a 29 spline 8.25" out of a 97 (late 96) or newer XJ. Then put in an Aussie lunch box locker.

Mine don't drag. With the load sensing valve tied straight up the rear does lock up before the front.

With rear disc brakes I would use a proportioning valve off a ZJ or Exploder with rear discs instead of an XJ. If you're going to replace it, you might as well replace it with the correct one for your brakes.

Yeah, I've seen that one before as well. Still, $1k doesn't seem to be too bad a price.

Bad connection between alternator and battery.

Lifter. Mine does it intermittently when the oil pressure is low (idling in gear with hot oil). Won't really affect anything seriously. Running thicker oil will help at the expense of fuel mileage. Only way to fix is to tear the engine apart and replace it. But if you do that you might as well do a full rebuild. And if you're going to do THAT, you might as well stroke it at the same time. But building a stroker just to replace a ticking lifter is ridiculous. Turn the radio up a bit more and you won't hear it.

I know I had posted a part number somewhere. Just found it in the "what ddi you do to your MJ today" thread:

Supposedly only about 50 were sold in the US. Parts had to be modified for it to fit the Cherokee (and Comanche), and after the Chrysler take-over Renault quit producing those custom parts. They do still sell parts for related engines that may or may not bolt on. But without Renault dealers in the US they have to be ordered from Europe or Mexico. Even in Europe parts are getting hard to find. I came across a few posts from someone in Italy who has five Cherokees with that motor. Two drivers and 3 parts trucks. And even then he has had to custom make some parts himself to keep the two running.

They're $200 new from Rusty's.

85hp, 132 foot pounds of torque. So less hp than any other engine, and the same amount of torque as the 84/85 carbureted 2.5l in the Cherokees. Any other engine put in the Cherokee/Comanche from 86 onward including the TBI 2.5 makes more torque.

Did some research on them, and I believe they might be Rusty's (or 1source) adjustable coil spacers. As for the runaway rpms on startup, mine was doing that caused by excess fuel in the cylinders. Turns out I had some leaky injectors and eventually it got so bad the truck was hard to start after it had been shut off more than 20 seconds but less than 6 hours (but it fired up easier than ever after sitting overnight). Set of rebuilt Bosch injectors from precision fixed it, and smoothed out my idle to that of a new vehicle.

Be aware the firewall might need tweaked with a BFH to clear a 4.0, and the radiator supports have to be swapped as well. You are also going to have to somehow splice your rear wiring harness to the dash one and swap instrument cluster and vehicle speed sensor.

That's the way to go right there. Avoid the cheap Harbor Freight one. I have one and it just looks flimsy. Another good option is to put the loop into the receiver and put the hitch pin through the loop. Nice thing about the D ring is that a whinch can be hooked to it if needed.

No matter how good the welds look, do not hook a strap to a bumper that is not BOLTED to the frame. Last trip out I pulled a bumper off a Comanche just getting the strap tight, was not welded very well. A few hours later with a doubled up strap and a 10 foot run I pull the bumper off a full size Bronco. That one was welded professionally.

Not the same, but related. I got an RV trailer from Canada earlier this year. Had to get it registered in Canada to get plates for it to tow across the border. Then stop at the border to get import papers for it, in Ohio to get an"out of state VIN inspection" done, and turn in all those papers along with a bill of sale and a statement that there are no liens against it to the title office to be issued an Ohio title for it. I went to my local title office beforehand to find out what I needed and they told me to get temporary Canadian plates for it. Turns out Canada doesn't have temporary plates, but I'm thinking Ohio might if the title office assumed every other country/state does.

Thanks for that tidbit. I have a 96 and always assumed it was 27.