mvusse

I have a buddy who wheels a ZJ on 35s. He swapped out his stock rear axle for an 8.8 also.

Cherokee leaf springs are nearly flat.

235s are supposed to be on a 6" to 7" wide rim. They will fit on an 8" wide rim, but don't be surprised if you end up with one or more tires leaking on the bead and/or the tires wearing faster on the edges than in the middle. For both 235/75 metric tires and 31x10.50 I would go with a 7" wide rim.

With the length of a Comanche rear drive shaft, you don't need to think about a transfer case drop or slip yoke eliminator. Proper drive line angles with the stock rear drive shaft is the pinion angle of the rear axle being parallel to the transfer case output shaft. I doubt you're going to be able to get 4" of rear lift with any bastard leaf pack, unless you go spring over axle and use flatter than stock leafs. With V8 ZJ front springs and 1.75" pucks, 3" might be a better match for the rear. v* Upcountry springs will lift an inch more but may be difficult to find. There are two vendors I know of offering 3" Comanche lift packs (and also 4.5"), both are on this site, and I believe they both offer the same springs. IIRC there's a sticky in the "for sale" section. Then toss under a set of 31x10.50 tires on stock 15x7 Comanche or Cherokee rims for a bit more lift (~3"-4" larger than stock tire = ~1.5"-2" lift). You should get a longer or adjustable track bar and longer or adjustable lower control arms. IMO upper control arms are never a bad idea when the lowers are replaced with after market, but not absolutely necessary for what you're doing. Longer brake hoses are definitely a good idea.

There should be a rubber grommet on the bottom of the sending unit that fits in a bracket on the bottom of the tank. Maybe the grommet off the old one stayed in there? The grommet has a bevelled bottom side to make it easier to hit the hole. If the grommet is stuck in the tank it is almost impossible to get the sending unit to hit the hole in it. Someone with skinny arms should be able to reach into the tank to get the grommet out, but if the tank is still installed in the truck it will be almost impossible to get to it.

Okay, either Don has something that doesn't exist, or more likely, my info is wrong. I do know neither my 94 XJ nor my 96 XJ has a clock, or wiring for a clock.

Does not exist. Chrysler did away with the dash clocks because the radio had one. A Renix era clock will fit the dashboard, but you will have to splice the wires as the 91+ dash harness does not have wires for a clock.

I disagree. The changeover was partway through 94 or between 94 and 95. My 94 XJ's 231 (which is the original one it came with from the factory) does NOT have a true neutral. And not having a CAD, it cannot be towed on a dolly without pulling a drive shaft.

I agree. For towing with a dolly, it is trivial to pull the rear drive shaft.

This is completely normal for cars that use the same bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals.

95 and later (which does not affect an MJ unless one was swapped in) do have a true neutral.

I just found a wiper arm for the lift gate on my 96 Comanche for $64... oh wait, my 96 is a CHEROKEE.

Don't know if the space under the hood is the same, but my 94 XJ had an alarm (and it's a theft recovery, go figure!) and the siren was mounted to the driver side fender between the brake booster and the air cleaner.

Don't think he poll matters because it is still broken. For Jeepspeed (I imagine desert) I would not go with either. The high torque and horsepower needed would need alrger transfer case than that. And a larger engine than the 4.0 Running the 4.0 I would go with the 231. Only time I think a 242 is going to really be helpful is on gravel or snow covered roads. For an offroad rig, especially one that has to survive high speed racing, it's all about strength, where the 231 is a bit better. But building a dual purpose rig that can do well in Jeepspeed AND crawl is expensive. Otherwise you end up with a compromise that sucks at both.

I didn't bother as it was overcast here in Ohio.

I already have a 10x10 shed, but it blows laying in the snow freezing your butt stick to the gravel replacing a starter. Come spring thaw I'm building a 24x24 pole barn garage. Then when I have some more money again another 12 or 14 feet will be added to it.

That, and many other vehicles, have a downstream o2 sensor, so if you remove the cat, that sensor will read false and give poor fuel mileage. I am not the biggest chevy guy so I can't confirm it, but you may be able to correct this like I did in my stang. Nope, single O2 sensor, just after where the Y pipe comes together, a ways before the cat. I believe downstream O2 sensors were introduced on the Vortec engines, starting in 1996.

On my 94 Suburban with a 350 it cost me about 7% in gas mileage.

Weak alternator has trouble with the extra load of the brake lights would be my guess.

Have had a few inches, with about one to two left on the ground. Just a few miles north in the snow belt you'd be counting feet instead of inches, though. Headed up to the Lake Huron snow belt in Canada in less than a week. London has more than 3 feet, Clinton (little town) has about two.

Be aware that with the line broken and the temperature control set to anything other than hot, you will have a vacuum leak. Would be okay for now, but will you remember when the weather warms up?

Just cap the line. Heat is controlled both by that valve, as well as a door that directs the air either through the heater core or around it. Without vacuum the valve defaults to open, and the door by itself works just fine to control the hot/cold air setting. Why we needed a redundant heat select function is beyond me.

Haven't spoken with him since early November, but last I did he was swamped and had a bunch of other jobs lined up well into January. I'm sure he's still lurking when he can. Just no time to post.

To swap the whole thing you need engine bay wiring harness, dash wiring harness, computer, fuel sender, dash gauge cluster and splice in the old tail light harness to the new dash one. To use the long block you will have to move all sensors over from the old one and drill/tap for the knock sensor (didn't somebody say recently the boss is there in an HO block, but not drilled?). The HO head does flow better than the Renix one, but with the head you will have t swap the intake and exhaust manifolds as the ports won't match up otherwise. disclaimer: Even though I have both Renix and HO 4.0s in my vehicles I have never yet had either apart that far to verify. All this information is what I remember from posts in the past. Hopefully someone else will chime in to either verify ^^^^ or correct it.

I run 35s on the stock front axle without a problem. I did rip all the disconnect stuff out of the axle, bolted a cover plate over the hole, added an oil seal at the differential and run a single piece shaft with the larger u joints. I upgraded the driver side shaft to the larger u joint also. These shafts can be foind in the junk yard in any 1997 or newer XJ Cherokee, or any year XJ Cherokee with ABS. They are a direct drop in replacement. If you take a tape measure you can double check. The smaller u joints (5-260x) have 1-1/16 inch caps, the larger ones (5-297x, 5-760x) have 1-3/16 inch caps. I run Spicer brand 5-760x u joints in them. About $20 per shaft at the junk yard, $30 per u joint and $10 for the oil seal gives you a plenty strong axle for $110 in upgrades. Way cheaper than swapping in a different axle or using after market shafts. As for quick disconnects: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_xj-disconnects.html I would normally hesitate to mention Rough Country as some of their stuff is junk, but I think these will work. Hold off on a front locker until you know what you're doing with your transfer case and what you will be using the Jeep for. An Aussie locker is only $230 (US) plus shipping, but you won't be able to use 4wd in snow. Well, you can, but not safely. Nothing like turning the steering wheel and you keep going straight. A selectable locker (ARB for example) would be awesome, but expensive.