james750

Cool, now their are two LWB mj slider options!!!

second. I know some here are sick of hearing it, but Motion Offroad has had lwb rock rails available for going on three weeks if not longer. First Ive heard of it. Now I know.

Lookin forward to it. I just discovered JCR about 3 months ago, got their front bumper, and love it. I am happy that they are the firsts to offer LWB MJ sliders, I sense a spring project coming on for me. I am so excited right now!

Waggy 44s I think.

Some of the 90's use composite rotors that will not work on older MJ's, the 86 was kind of a strange year for the MJ as was the 84-86 XJs; not sure but the brake system could be completely different on your Mj than the 87-90s.

CAD is locked, but fluids are good in the axle, where is the fill plug for the tcase? It takes ATF right?

yep, my bed is the same way now... stupid people need to get off the roads. :wall:

Bump :D

When I put my truck in 4wd the transfer case (maybe the front axle) :dunno: starts to make a fairly loud and nasty growling noise, It goes away when I am not on the gas but comes back if the gears start to slow the truck down at all. I hear it very faintly (read: very) on my other np242 xjs and on my sisters np231 XJ, but not anywhere near as loud, But they are autos with AW4 so I am not sure if that makes a difference. I need the truck for DD now and cannot have the 4wd going out while driving in winter. What do you guys think the problem could be?

I was looking at a ZJ the other day that had a dual diaphram booster and saw that they have a washer bottle that I think would fit nicely in the hood compartment of our MJs and still allow us to have a DD booster. Anyone tried this or even looked at trying it?

Why is it so serious?

I think anyone would know it if the belt snapped, no more alternator, ps, waterpump, ac.

drive down an alley between 2 tall buildings, the noise will bounce off the walls and be louder/lower and then you will probably hear it.

I know that it is pretty extensive to put power windows off of a 97+ into an mj but what about putting some in from an older XJ? Is the wiring already their and its plug and play? I would want to find new 4 door door panels or full doors and then the handles off of a 2 door so that it would look right (no buttons for 4 door).

Image Not Found Image Not Found The second pic answers a question seen in the thread on this MJ a while back. We all thought that they started with older xj doors and put new mirrors and door handles on it based on how it is not a full front window. But if you look at the interior door panels they are newer style ones. I guess that he started with 97+ doors and added half windows to it. Now based on the rear doors, I wonder if he started with a 2nd or first gen XJ. My guess is that he started with a 97+ xj and a 1st gen xj and used the 1st gen XJ for parts. EDIT: It looks like everything in the rear is 1st gen and the door panels in the rear are actually front door panels off of a older XJ. Rear seat is also off of an older XJ while front seats are off of newer XJ. Hmm...

Imagine what would happen if you got up to highway speed with that!

Ill search for some threads in a sec, there are several on here. The best way to do this is to take a 4 door XJ and splice the rear cab off of the MJ onto it just after the back seat. Then you need to splice the rear MJ frame (as past the cab the uniframe turns into normal frame) into the XJ unibody. To make the rear doors look right you gotta splice the bottom of a front door into the bottom left of a rear door.

:redX:

also, in the down position as well as on with the door open, it will also come on when you turn the headlight switch to the clicked far left position. ;)

rockfrogs and JF are doing the CCFK as well!

How is the headliner removed on our trucks?

Going to trim my fenders today and wanted to know what the best tool for doing it is. I have a saber saw with metal blades, a 4" HF angle grinder with metal cutoff discs. Which one will work best for this?

I'm guessing Safeway 40 cent discount?

Its probably to your heater controls. Go turn the truck on and see if the controls still work. If thats the problem, it should only blow out of the defrost vent no matter what position the heat is in except off (vent, bilevel, heat, defrost).

ok, spent all day on this now, and it payed off. i was able to drill it out and use a screw extractor thing I found at carquest (not a like a normal easy out, but it is a square shape with little cutters on the ends) and I use that to cut out the remaining wall of the screw so that the remaining screw was cut into 4 pieces. Then I used a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to tap out the 4 pieces of screw. It worked on both sides and the nut in the frame rail is still usable. :banana: