james750

Ill use the original shocks to get it home then, once home I will measure and order some new ones!

:agree: Yeah, the shaft angles are going to be a major problem even with SYE at that much lift. I think that you would need true cv joints on the driveshafts (either rzeppa or tripod, and the inbord joint would need to be plunging type) and not just the double cardan type joint.

works for me

I guess I learn something new about these things every day. I never knew about the extended idle switch in the XJ's. I also thought that that switch panel for the fogs/ext idle/rear def/wipers was only a three switch panel, as 2 of my XJs have 3 switches, and one has only 1 in that spot (base model with only rear wipers, has spots for the other 2 switches with blockk off plates, but no space for a ext idle). :hijack:

Like said before the front 3 are studs with nuts, on my MJ there is only one threaded hole in the frame on the drivers side for the skid plate, put no mounts on the pass side.

I will probably use an XJ 8.25 spring perch in the end when I go to long travel shocks. For the time being though. After the install will my current shocks bolt up to the spring pads above the axle temporarily, or do I need to find shorter shocks for them to bolt on? Sorry for so many questions, this is the one point where this SOA thing gets to being a multi day task when I only have one day to do the install and need to get everything together before hand so I can make it a one day install. :cheers:

Could I do that w/o the lower spring perch and just have the spring pad ride on the axle tube?

Looking some more into this, the axle that is going in for the SOA is an XJ 8.25, and it has the stock XJ shock mounts... Are the XJ shock mounts by chance at the same depth below the axle as are the MJ? If so maybe I can just use MJ 4.5-5.5" shocks on it and put them in the stock XJ location. Also, a semi related question, are the spring perches on an XJ the same distance apart as on an MJ?

I want to mount them on the spring pads temporarily after I get the SOA and new axles installed (just for this coming wheeling season and getting home after).I would not know that measurement until I get the SOA done. Could I install the current shocks for just the road drive home?

Is there any way to calculate the size shocks I am going to need after I do the spring over. :huh???:

Are these the same length shocks you had when your setup was SUA? If not, how much bigger are they? smaller?

Does that mean that the rear shocks that I currently have will work when it is soa?

Will 4-5" shocks work for an SOA setup, I am getting 4.5" front springs and want to know if I buy a full set of four shocks (package deal) rather than 2 4.5" for the front and 2 other shocks of a different length for the back.

Wow Pete, I've never seen a chrysler minivan make it past 150k. :eek:

Being how long that decal has been on there and still surviving, I would say it was done with a gerber edge or similar machine that prints on vinyl using foils instead of inks. It wouldn't be rub on, but rather an adhesive sign vinyl. I have a part time job making signs like that and can make single color decals in my basement on a vinyl cutter. I didn't make that sign, but have done many others like that. One time I noticed a set of stickers like this in a USA flag pattern and somebody else told me that multiple colors wouldn't be possible.... it looked like this... would the Comanche tailgate decals be able to be done up in a flag pattern? Well, yes and no. The guy couldn't do those in multiple colors because he didn't have a vinyl printer (either foil or 4 color process ink), I have limited access to a printer and have a cutter so I can only do single color most of the time. I am working on making some of the rear tailgate decals right now, Once I get them right (my problem right now is that AMC Jeep and Chryco Jeep logos are slightly different) I will sell them in all of the colors I will be able to get a hold of, If I get access to a printer, the possibilities are endless. Also, I am going to try and make the old sportruck and pioneer decals that ran the full length of the truck, I am having a very difficult time finding any artwork for that though, let alone measurements. Ill post another thread about this in the pub in a few weeks once I get all my $#!& together.

Being how long that decal has been on there and still surviving, I would say it was done with a gerber edge or similar machine that prints on vinyl using foils instead of inks. It wouldn't be rub on, but rather an adhesive sign vinyl. I have a part time job making signs like that and can make single color decals in my basement on a vinyl cutter. I didn't make that sign, but have done many others like that.

Yes, Mjs were offered with a 242. No, Mj's with the 242 didn't have the CAD (its a good thing) Yes, open diffs are supposed to act that way (rear in your case) Yes, If both tires turn together (front in your case) you have LSD or a locker

I thought that YJ's had 8.25s and 44s as options for the rear. I guess that it doesn't matter now b/c I am NOT going to replace my 35 with another 35. I guess that it will have to come from an XJ.

Yeah, definitely going to an XJ front. The reason why I want vac disco is because I made my own posi lok for it over the summer and use it all the time for 2lo. ;)

Ok, so I would have to get the perches cut/welded. The reason I ask is that my D30 has bad bearings and I am trying to use the opportunity to upgrade from the 3.07 gears that I have. :ack: I would like to put an 8.25 or 44 with 4.10s in the rear and a vac disco 30 with 4.10s in the front and wanted to know if the parts from a YJ would work.

Will a SUA YJ rear axle bolt up to the MJ? If not can I use shims to adjust the pinion angle enough to make it workor do I have to get the mounts cut/re-welded? Are the leaf packs the same width? Shock mounts?

which trans mount? where is it located?

you could always use a small piece of pipe that is filed out to conform to the shape of the exhaust pipe and wedge it between the hitch and the pipe to stop the rattle.

Ok, I think I "fixed" it. I jacked up the exhaust a little and put a nut between the exhaust and the xmember and it went away for now. I took it to the exhaust shop and they just pried it up until the noise went away but that lasted less than ~20 miles. I guess thats what they're warranty is then. :shake:

F.E.A.R FTW. check it out its a lot of fun and combat (co-op only) version is free!