james750

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13501

Yeah it was CC members rigs that were used for the engineering of the sliders and bumpers, there is a thread somewhere on it.

I want to see where you guys are mounting your hi lifts at. Right now I am thinking either in the bed or on the front bumper. What have you guys done (pics please) to mount your hi lift?

How do I get one? Their site doesn't show it! :dunno:

Id like to do a winter run, gotta fix my exhaust, and hopefully sliders, then snowbashing here I come!!!

FTW= FOR THE WIN

NICE TRUCKS!!!

its just a little low on blinker fluid. :brows:

pull out the thermostat and drill a small hole in the top, this will bleed the excess air out, that is what separates aftermarket thermos form OEM, OEM has a hole or check valve that bleeds the air out.

Does that mean that there cannot be any superchargers or turbos?

:fool: :rotfl2:

:fool: :rotfl2:

DUDE, where are the pics!!!!! :needpics:

DUDE, where are the pics!!!!! :needpics:

Went to clean NSS in the 97 XJ, ended up having to replace it. Went to dealership to pick up new NSS and saw an MJ converted over to the 97+ front clip, doors, and possibly interior, but didn't get a chance to look close enough at it. I'm pretty sure the MJ was in a staff/customer parking area so it wasn't for sale, anyone on here own it? It was at the Phil long at Wads and Stanford.

Went to clean NSS in the 97 XJ, ended up having to replace it. Went to dealership to pick up new NSS and saw an MJ converted over to the 97+ front clip, doors, and possibly interior, but didn't get a chance to look close enough at it. I'm pretty sure the MJ was in a staff/customer parking area so it wasn't for sale, anyone on here own it? It was at the Phil long at Wads and Stanford.

For a new saw, get a Stihl, Husqu, or a Poulan. Those are all great saws. I have a 2 yr old Stihl that gets the job done and is dependable, but lacks power IMO. I also have a 70s Mccolloch (sp?) pro-mac 10-10 and although it is not dependable due to its age, it is the most powerful and fastest cut I have seen out of a saw yet, the downside to that saw is that is that it is VERY heavy. If your going used I would suggest another Mac but the new ones are, well... :ack:

For a new saw, get a Stihl, Husqu, or a Poulan. Those are all great saws. I have a 2 yr old Stihl that gets the job done and is dependable, but lacks power IMO. I also have a 70s Mccolloch (sp?) pro-mac 10-10 and although it is not dependable due to its age, it is the most powerful and fastest cut I have seen out of a saw yet, the downside to that saw is that is that it is VERY heavy. If your going used I would suggest another Mac but the new ones are, well... :ack:

Doing a brake job requires different tools than rerouting brake lines. A drum brake job requires 3 brake spring tools on our trucks. To reroute the lines you will need a QUALITY double flaring tool, the know how to make a decent double flare (just takes a little practice, but DON'T make your first flare on the truck, chances are, it will be bad), You also need a bender to bend the tubing properly without it cracking or breaking which would be very bad b/c a whole lot of pressure runs through those lines. The reason for the metering valve is that duo servo (self energizing) drums that our trucks have need much less pressure than the front discs need, the metering valve eliminates excess pressure that would otherwise go to the drums, but still maintain pressure in the rest of the system to operate the discs. That being said I would suggest replacing the metering valve and not bypassing it to obtain normal braking operations. If mine quits working I will bypass it as I much prefer understeer to oversteer problems as understeer is much easier to recover from in icy conditions. Look at other posts in this thread, the info is there, you just need to help yourself a bit and find it in the links provided.

Doing a brake job requires different tools than rerouting brake lines. A drum brake job requires 3 brake spring tools on our trucks. To reroute the lines you will need a QUALITY double flaring tool, the know how to make a decent double flare (just takes a little practice, but DON'T make your first flare on the truck, chances are, it will be bad), You also need a bender to bend the tubing properly without it cracking or breaking which would be very bad b/c a whole lot of pressure runs through those lines. The reason for the metering valve is that duo servo (self energizing) drums that our trucks have need much less pressure than the front discs need, the metering valve eliminates excess pressure that would otherwise go to the drums, but still maintain pressure in the rest of the system to operate the discs. That being said I would suggest replacing the metering valve and not bypassing it to obtain normal braking operations. If mine quits working I will bypass it as I much prefer understeer to oversteer problems as understeer is much easier to recover from in icy conditions. Look at other posts in this thread, the info is there, you just need to help yourself a bit and find it in the links provided.

Can't remember which side the grounding strap is on, someone will chime in with that I am sure! but if the bulb you replaced was on the side with the grounding strap in the bedside (or it may be on the other side, and the burnt out bulb was hiding a preexisting problem), and the ground strap got disturbed, then it could cause your problem.

Can't remember which side the grounding strap is on, someone will chime in with that I am sure! but if the bulb you replaced was on the side with the grounding strap in the bedside (or it may be on the other side, and the burnt out bulb was hiding a preexisting problem), and the ground strap got disturbed, then it could cause your problem.

Sounds like a grounding problem to me.

I think he meant that he was very angry, not injured. Correct me if I am wrong.

How close did you adjust the brakes, they should be to where you can hear them drag just a little bit on the drums as you turn them freely.