james750

Not meaning to hijack, but what all is involved in the HID conversion?

Where is the timer located in Renix era MJ's

Just a reminder, Christmas Caravan for Kids is this Saturday December 5th. Hope to see some of the Colorado MJ guys there! :wavey:

Hi Rick! I had some nasty wobble issues all summer with the 31" A/T's on the Jeep. But as soon as I swapped my 31'' MT's on the wobbles went away, hopefully your wobble goes away with the XJ tires.

The HO throttle bodies/intake manifolds are different. The 91+ throttle body components will not work on a renix 4.0. The CAD going out on these trucks is a common problem. It was a good choice to go to a posi-lock setup to avoid vacuum problems. A lot of guys here (including myself back when I had a CAD axle) moved the E-clip or shimmed the CAD with washers to bypass the vacuum setup as well. I know that there are 5.0 Ford injectors that work in our trucks and are said to increase performance. I am not sure of a part number or vehicle that the Ford injectors are put into. It could be the mustang?

Yeah, it just gives me a pop up with a worthless wiki link. I have messed with configurator to no avail.

The program crashes when I select the XJ. Anybody else have this problem?

Is Friction Modifier required with an Aussie Locker?

How do you get the XJ?

What axle shafts are you running in your Dana 30? What size tires are those/lift size? Looks nice!

No that grill definitely came off of a j truck

SO... If we coat the MJ's in fiberglass, it'll run just like a vette, am I right or is this not true?

With your clutch disengaged at a complete stop, nothing should be spinning in your trans, maybe it is clutch related, possibly a pilot bearing? If it only does it with the clutch engaged, in neutral at a complete stop or in gear and moving, then it could be something inside the trans.

Nope that about sums it up!

Wow, not sure how to respond to this. It seems to generalize the liberals (like myself, but I am more of a middle of the road kind of guy who will vote for who I think is best regardless of his political party) and has some radical thoughts that are not fully in touch with everything that is going on in our country today. :shake: -James

Wipers use a circuit breaker, not a fuse it is located at the right side of the fuse box. This isn't your problem if you are getting voltage at the motor. I would pull the cowl first. Its pretty easy to remove but you will need a torx bit to remove the linkage.

my old ones have the rounded hat, so they should work.

So, if I have 90 unit bearings I am good to go on the 97 axle. How do I tell if I have an 89 or a 90 unit bearing?

Will the unit bearing off of an 89 or 90XJ work on a 97XJ? I have an old but good unit bearing off of my truck when it had the original axles under it and need a new one for my 97 axle. I have an early production 90 and I am not sure if it had 89 or 90 unit bearings. Is there a way to tell the difference between 89 and the 90's if they are different? If it is a 90 unit bearing would it be compatible with the 97? As always, Thanks in advance -James

I think I am going to just use 10w30, since chrysler recommends it, it should be ok.

Is there any pro's/cons that you could share? I am very interested in this as it looks like such a simple setup. Why isn't it for everyone?

Doesn't your 88 truck have radius arms? How have you liked that setup?

Chuck Norris doesn't need to sneak up, he knows that there will be an @$$ kicking either way.

Check your production date. 90 was an change year for many parts in the XJ/MJ. If your production date is late 89 for the 90 model year (like mine) you need 89 rotors as they switched rotor types between 89 and 90. Some of the early 90s still had 89 axles. I had this exact problem with mine before I switched to the 94 XJ D30. I needed the 89 rotors to make it work.

What about a slider that runs along the top of the bedside. I have wanted to do this to my truck for awhile now. One of the guys in the club I run with has this setup and it seems to do well.