GirsMJ86

They recommend only using 25-35 lbs for that stuff. http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/chassiscoat%20directions.pdf It doesn't mention nozzle size, but it does say it should be thinned 10-20%. I've never sprayed a por15 product so I can't comment from personal experience. I've always brushed the stuff and it levels out nicely without issue or strokes being noticeable. The stuff is the same viscosity as normal por15, and it says to use their por solvent stuff to thin with. Could be a marketing ploy, but because of the properties of the stuff normal thinner might screw up the adherence, dry time, or who knows what else. Just my

The truck I'm going to be getting has a black bench but I can't stand bench seats so I would rather have buckets. So I'm tossing this up here as a feeler thread even before I have the truck home because I'm sure I will have to make a road trip to do the swap and I only have a couple months off before school starts back up. So I'm just trying to plan ahead accordingly. I'm only interested in the factory black buckets. If I give up and can't find them, I'll grab some black leathers out of something else and have brackets made to make them work. Full center console to go with the buckets would be a bonus as well that I just may be willing to buy if the price is right. Being a broke college kid doesn't leave much wiggle room for the MJ addiction. :fs2: I'm 90% sure it isn't ripped up or anything, but I will get better pics this coming weekend when I hopefully get the thing home.

I sold my '74 J10 in a day. Would have been less if IFSJA didn't go down while the guy that wanted to buy it was trying to contact me. He ended up finding my duplicate f/s post on FSJN though and got me there. He basically said "I'm coming to get the truck with asking price cash in hand". Came all the way from Buffalo, NY to central OH on new years day to collect the truck and then turned right back around. I was shocked how fast it sold, and the distance the buyer was. Should have kept it, but I'm glad it went to a good home and I'll find another someday when I have a place of my own with spare room for toys. My goal is to have both MJ and Gladiator, the two best trucks money can buy if ya ask me. . :MJ 1: .

It's not that bad. I've taken plenty of front bumpers off these things. The main thing is to just support it so it doesn't fall on ya. Ask me how I know. The flares are easy too. More than likely the bolts will break like already said. If they do don't worry, they can be reattached using stainless bolts, fender washers, and nylon locking nuts. That's one of the first "mods" I always do to my rigs. You can check out pics in my 91 topic from my signature.

Threaded to the frame.

The door switches are probably shot. Grab a tester and see if they are working or not. If it isn't the switches then you have a wiring issue somewhere else between them and the lights. I wouldn't think it is in your lights since they do turn on in both directions.

Because it's going to happen sooner or later... :needpics:

I had a Flowmaster 40 on my '91 4.0L and it sounded really good, only thing I'd be willing to use behind a 4.0 now. Was loud when you'd gun it, but not in a ricer way, and had a nice growl to it when at idle/cruising. I thought I had a video, but there isn't any sound. :wall:

I have some side moldings from an old XLS in storage and I want to put them on my new rig I'm going to be getting. The only problem is that the ancient foam tape stuff is still stuck to them and I've been unable to get it off. I mean the stuff is really stuck on them good. I'm sure we've all removed old tape from emblems, multiply that by ten and that is how well it is still stuck to the molding pieces. I haven't tried acetone, brake cleaner, or anything else that might damage the moldings. They are the ones with the chrome down the middle, and I think there is a clear layer of something over the chrome, which is my biggest concern about what might get ruined using a solvent. So what do you all suggest?

You have to change the striker on the actual truck to the newer style. I can't say how hard that is exactly but it has been done plenty of times by others if you do spoke searching. I know the newer style ones just bolt on.

I'd swap the doors. You gain the bigger windows and the newer style latch after doing the mod. But I hate screwing around inside the doors too much, swapped some vent windows once and decided never again. So I may be a tad bit biased.

I never thought about a wrap shop before. I'll have to head over to the one here in town and see what they think. Thanks for the tip. :cheers:

That thing is clean. Loving the color combination. It doesn't have the sentinel system though sadly. If it did you would have the clock that is in this pic that lists all the fluids. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38469-fstrade-25l-4-wheel-drive-badges-oh/

It clears the hood just fine. The only thing that might not work is the stock tie-down. I can't remember for sure or not how I had mine held in place since it's been a few years since I had that truck.

That is the one I had in my 91. Will work just fine.

Something every MJ should have. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portal_axle

Does it have the sentinel fluid monitoring unit by chance? :brows: If so, I'd love to pick your brain about it since I have one to install in an MJ. Can't believe it sat on CL that long either. Great find though, I would have scooped that up in a heartbeat as well for that price. :thumbsup:

Not at all, but that's typical for these parts.

That sucks to hear. Formalities like that seem to be found less and less anymore. I'm only 26 but I agree that a handshake is basically sealing the deal. I also try to be completely honest when selling a vehicle, which may just bite me in the rear more times than not I'm sure since I'm listing things that scare off people. But I'd rather feel good about telling all I know about my vehicle rather than trying to slide something by someone. The PO managed to slide by me that the rear axle was completely toast in this Vic, which explains why he was asking so little. That's fine, I fixed it and now can ask a normal range asking price. If I were to discuss a deal with someone and shake on it, then someone else comes along offering more with cash in hand, I'd be calling the first person before selling it out from under them. What I really love though are the ones who pull stuff like selling the wheels that are on the vehicle and putting old crappy ones on after a deal has been made on the vehicle with the better ones.

I'm sure it is. I'd also wager it would be out of my price range, not including getting it. Lol No leaky clutch master that I noticed, but it decided to rain on us so didn't look it over as well as I had liked to. Going to go back on a dry day to check it out better since it was sitting in soupy mud. It looks like a promising project truck. Has some rust through starting in the common areas. Black interior that needs a bit of work, factory roll bar, chrome everything but with steelies, Command-Trac, Holley 2D injection, electric fan. It definitely appeared to have a rebuilt engine because all the vac lines were new and there were a lot of spliced wires that needed cleaned up. The paint is peeling pretty bad along the bed sides. Just the typical Ohio symptoms. Have a few others to look at around the state, and at least one might be a potential trade for my P71. I'll have to just see and compare. Or if my P71 sells soon enough, I might be making a road trip to Miami, FL soon to get a '51 IH pickup. So I could find a better rig anywhere between Ohio and there to buy.

Well now I gotta jump in here. Toyota 3C-T or TE.

Oh I know how bad the 2.8L is, had one once before, but it's not enough to scare me away so long as it runs ok. So long as it lasts until August I'll be happy, then I can start a 4.0L swap or keep driving it till it dies. When I say dd though that actually means like... driven once a week, if that, and even less once back in school since I'll be on campus pretty much 24/7. I just want another MJ, decided the Vic is just too big for my taste even if it is impressive, just have no use for a 4dr boat.

Why check for anything? Because I'm a broke college kid who will need it to be a daily driver. This would be my 4th MJ, 5th Jeep truck, and 8th vehicle. I don't mind working on them, but it needs to run and drive without major issues at least until school starts back up again in August. Trust me, I'm in one of the worst possible areas for buying used vehicles from private sellers. They all think their $500 vehicle is worth several thousand and it is the heart of the rust belt so that makes things even worse. Unless I was just buying something as a parts rig, I would not buy something without hearing it run around here. I've seen more rednecked together vehicles around here than I care to. Can't go a day without seeing someone driving around with their exhaust hanging out from under the vehicle, mismatched replacement body panels, 2x10s used as (front) bumpers, smashed in front ends without any headlights. I just don't get how people around here get by with the stuff I've seen. But anyways, thanks for the list of stuff guys. I suppose I should try to find a vac diagram for that 2.8L, but even then I could be there all day checking that tangled mess.

I'm going to be looking at an '86 in the morning and I'm looking for input on stuff to check. Typical for these parts the asking price is too high so I want to make sure I examine this thing under a microscope. Help me complete my inspection list. Stuff I know: 1986 LWB 2.8L 4x4 5spd 164k miles Claims the 2.8 was rebuilt 30k ago, but unless there is paperwork I won't believe that for a second It has been sitting since fall, in the middle of a wooded area. Last time it was used was to haul firewood Holley fuel injection with Edelbrock intake manifold and valve covers Brake booster and MC was replaced within the last 5yrs Has rust, just not sure how bad until I see it First thing is first. Yank up the carpet and check the floors! :thumbsup: