GirsMJ86

hmm I'll have to look into those a bit more then. I saw them in the vendors section but basically wrote them off since they don't go all the way down like the Bushwackers, otherwise though I like the shape of them a lot more. Guess I'll see if I can get my hands on some Bushwackers from CL or something and see what can be done. Wonder how well JK flares would work on the MJ, turns out well on FSJ Waggys. Of course I'd wager that would defeat my purpose of not having to hack up my bed.

More like shouting in agony "kill me!".

Probably a lost cause, but does any company make flares similar to the looks of the Bushwacker cutouts but does not require cutting? I just want some bigger flares that go on in the stock location this way I can always go back to stock easily if I wanted. I'm just looking to keep the shape/look/style that is meant for our trucks, but adds some extra coverage for a slightly wider stance.

So um... yea. The only thing I see good about that thing is the corner lights and maybe the bushwackers if they aren't hacked up (kind of hard to tell). The rest, well it pains me to say it but, the rest should be crushed with a proper sending off by real MJ owners gathered around in mourning. And he thinks it's worth 7k... Unless he is asking 7k to take that trash off there and fix the damage he did.

The aev brute double cab is sharp and I'd jump on one if I had the funds. Probably the closest thing we'll see to a jeep truck on the road since Chrysler seems to be too chicken to take a risk on too much of a good thing.

I'd grab it and trail rig it. 300 is a steal even if all you do is pull every salvageable part off it or the engine is good. I see a stick, could be an ax15?

It still really beefs me that the gladiator concept isn't out there on lots. So much better than the other concepts they've come out with imo. Everything about it is just... :drool:

Just FYI, any 2wd version will work as well. Same with auto consoles. All the parts just pop out and snap in. And FWIW, I just bought a new boot but turned out I didn't need it since there was nothing wrong with my old one. I could let it go for what I paid ($10) plus shipping or I could let my used one go for half that. LMK if ya need one. Either way I only have the boot though, no retainer ring since the one I had was busted, ended up using double sided automotive foam tape to hold the boot in place.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-jeep-cherokee-comanche-sport-3-prong-steering-wheel-gremlin-javelin-amx-/251285215743?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a81c419ff&vxp=mtr Here ya go, even crazier than the $500 mudflaps I posted earlier!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-82-JEEP-CJ-Front-Back-Mud-Flaps-Complete-Set-New-in-Box-/380569661101?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589bb82ead&vxp=mtr I know someone on here wants to get these and trim them up for their rig. They're only $125 each!

I always just figured that was because of torque. My J10 did the same thing with the 304, I seem to recall my K10s doing it as well and they both had 350s. I've not driven it yet but my 2.8 does it as well when I've toyed with it in my driveway.

Taurus fans are popular among the FSJ crowd, I'd wager they are within the XJ/MJ crowd as well. I've just never looked to see otherwise. My current rig came with an e-fan, not sure what out of though. I could try to find some numbers on it and see what Google says.

Extended cab with a long bed is my dream MJ, needs pop out windows though so I'm still trying to figure it out. Also, must win lottery first.

Love these things, and it still has the side trim. Hardly ever see them with that around here.

I'd grab the wider F250 axles if the will work, I don't know anything about them so no clue where the pumpkin is at on them. Though you could always just run wheel spacers to even things out no matter the route you go.

Issues fitting 33's with 6.5" lift? My '91 only had 3" lift with 31's and there was plenty of room considering 31's will fit on stock without a lift. Anyways, will be an interesting build so I am intrigued. Personally though I'd hold off until axles can be acquired. Your plans for the D30 has already been said, but what about the rear? Since you have not said what rear you have I assume it is the more common D35, which is a horrible axle and shouldn't really be paired with something as large as 35" tires.

Vent position is actually just a vent to the outside from how I've always understood it. The difference between that and just opening the windows is that it can be filtered, directed, and temperature can be manipulated some by adding in some heat or even a/c I'd wager. Then you have heat and a/c settings that use those features fully along with the vented in air. And THEN there is full on "max" a/c or heat which is normally a closed loop that recycles the air in the cabin. This of course is my non-technical viewing of how things work, right or wrong I don't know 100%.

All of mine have had a/c, but none have worked and I never got them fixed. In fact the compressor was laying in the bed of my current rig when I bought it and I scrapped it rather than put it back in. But anyways, none of them have blown anything colder than what is outside even if slid all the way into the blue. It would get hotter if I moved it into the red though. Maybe they've all been screwed up and I just didn't care enough, or that's how it is. Of course if yours is significantly warmer than outside, I'd guess something is messed up. Sorry I can't really help, but figured I'd provide my experience with the vents just in case.

:agree: Ain't that the truth. Four vehicles and a couple years later since my last MJ, and I just had to get my hands on another. One of those vehicles was even a J-Truck that I had been trying to find for many many years, just couldn't stack up to the MJ addiction.

Should mention it's for '91+ since it is electronic.

Got all my parts in and finally started putting them on. Started with the rear shocks, some Monroe Sensa-Trac Load Bearing ones. Have not driven it yet since the truck still can't move, but I gained about an inch of lift measured at the center of the flares lower edge lip. Ordered the same front shocks only without the load bearing springs, but have not put them on yet since I ran into an issue when I did the rear shocks. I was trying to adjust the position of a brake line that was wedged between the spring on the driver side shock and the frame, and there was apparently a weak spot in a bend that moved just enough to start leaking. So that now needs fixed and the lines in the rear need rerouted anyways since last time they were done the prop valve was taken out of the equation and the routing was done poorly. At the rate I'm discovering issues, I'll have everything replaced before I get it back on the road. After taking a good look at the motor mounts in hopes of putting the new ones on today, I have also decided it would be a lot easier with a hoist because of the way the exhaust is on that 2.8 and the way it fits in the truck. Because of that fact, I've decided to just take it to a friends shop and have him do everything at once since my days off are limited and I'd like to get it on the road. Then I can start digging in with paint and maybe off-road style bumpers and such. I will say the new shocks look really cool, so that's a plus.

I could snap some pics of mine if you wanted. They are still in the truck though so not sure how good of ones I could take. The bench isn't very loved from what I've seen, maybe someone will have a pair to sell or something.

I've been looking for originals for years and have only come across maybe two sets, both times I was beaten to the punch at buying them by someone who jumped as soon as they were posted. I've never found any aftermarket ones meant for the MJ, but can't say I've looked too hard since I'm picky about what goes on my rig. I was always thinking about just taking some material I have meant for industrial conveyor belts and cutting some out of that and just making some kind of bracket. I could live with plain black ones like that.

Without getting technical because I don't feel like looking up specifics from my tablet, etcher leaves behind a residue that allows better bonding. Most paints, I would also assume liner, does not stick well to bare metal so it needs to be primed at least. This is why products like por-15 and such say to either put right on rust or use etcher on bare metal. I'd just prep the paint really well or etch and prime, but I'm a sucker for overkill to make sure things turn out well and last. I'll be using por-15 over any rust I have, using etching primer over that, and then sanding down the rest of the truck and putting the liner on.

Forgot to mention that Monstaliner comes in 40 colors, and you can request 5 free samples on their website. I actually ordered the 40pc set so I could see them all in person, in daylight. Going to be painting my entire rig with the stuff this summer.