92tanMJ

Looks great Man! I went with their Kahki color! Fyi on the hood if you havent hit it with a clear coat yet, you can take a scotts bright pad to it and get rid of those over spray lines. Thats what I did for mine, and worked pretty well.

That's awesome man, aint nothin' like father son time....I feel sorry for the kids that don't get to do it

Have any more pics of that intake? Looks interesting Have you ever seen the cowl intake mod? I don't believe I have. One of the better ways ive ssen it done; http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/another-cowl-air-intake-write-up-741764/

Have you checked your engine codes? I know it sounds dumb but the CEL doesn't come on in these unless it's a more serious issue.

Isn't there an inline fuse for the fuse box?

FYI, I just disagreeing with what was in bold. Have any more pics of that intake? Looks interesting Have you ever seen the cowl intake mod?

IMO the bottom line is it's a 2.5 it is gutless and always will be...and that lift isnt going to help. IMHO the only way you're going to get the power you want is a 4.0. Roger that. It's worth keeping in mind that the primary restriction contributing to pumping losses in any gasoline engine is the throttle plate, which for almost all driving is mostly closed. Best gains to be had would come from reducing restriction in the exhaust, but that would be most pronounced for high load demand when flow is increased, same for reducing restriction in the intake. False. The best gains are when you reduce the restrictions in both (but too much). Firstly, air can only come in as fast as it can go out and it can only go out as fast as it's coming in. Secondly, (I'm just saying this in general not to you- I realize you said reduce and not eliminate) back pressure actually helps a motor run, you need it. If you have ever ran a 4.0 on just straight headers you'll one know they're loud as heck lol but other than that the butt dyno can actually feel a loss of power.

Wait that is photoshop? :hmm: :rotf: Jim I saw this one on Facebook today and thought you might like to see it

Lmoa at this dudes post but hey its 400 bucks. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4225340287.html This poor MJ, and those poor turbines :( http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4232410565.html

Just the Renix. When you replace the TPS on an HO, it usually runs up to about 3K RPM or more on first start, then slowly comes down as the ECU massages the reference voltage. IF everything is working right. That's what I thought, thanks Don :cheers:

Not to thread jack...but do all years need the TPS adjusted for just the renix motors?

Yeah the second one does need them.. IMO that's a better rout to take but it does require welding

Ah gotcha thanks for clearing that up, Ill check Saturday if I remember...Its raining cats and dogs right now and isnt supposed to stop till late Friday lol

Well as some of you my have seen I have been having some issues with keeping my motor running & I just pulled my codes and I got 12, 15, 21, 24, & 55 12- Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. ---normal 55-Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp. ---normal 15- No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. --- unrelated, my speedo randomly starts and stops working after it sits for a while 21- Bad 02 sensor --- I actually just ordered a new one 24-Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. So here are the MAP, TPS, and 02 sensors I just ordered: MAP--- 45 bucks on amazon, 80 on quadratic. http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-33000153-MAP-Sensor/dp/B0094QJJKI TPS--- http://www.amazon.com/Liter-Throttle-Position-Sensor-Cherokee/dp/B008OOQC2O 02 -- My 98 Cheorkee loves KGN, so I'm ordering one for my MJ. http://www.amazon.com/NGK-23023-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5PY1S/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Jeep|42&Model=Comanche|348&Year=1992|1992&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

Sorry I didn't see you post Hornbord. I already clean the grounds when my headlights were acting up. Buying new battery mains are on my 'to get/Christmas list'. I have a receipt that PO put in a new fuel pump and tank..although as I learned above you can't buy new pumps anymore so I don't know how true that is or what pump is in my tank now.. I just pulled my codes and I got 12, 15, 21, 24, & 55 12- Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. ---normal 55-Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp. ---normal 15- No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. --- unrelated, my speedo randomly starts and stops working after it sits for a while 21- Bad 02 sensor --- unrelated, I actually just ordered a new one But the one that counts: 24-Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. Think that is all my problem is? I just need a new TPS?

That, plus even if you don't block them, you are not required to read every post. And no one forces you to respond to anything that you read, either. Terms of service do limit what you can say when you do choose to respond though, though. ;) Nor are you required to comment on every post they make..

You know you can block people right?

I wish that's what "rust bucket" meant around here... :fs1: Not gonna lie I kinda dig the prono red.. Congrats on another truck...about time for a group picture of them isn't it? lol :shake: What one is this? 15? lol

Glad you finally got it back!....So whats the rest of the story last I heard you were text that asshat trying to get him reply lol

Sorry about your bad day but.....

People below me gotcha covered ;)

Here's one on amazon for 35 for the 91+ though..not sure if it is auto or manual http://www.amazon.com/Liter-Throttle-Position-Sensor-Cherokee/dp/B008OOQC2O

Seconded. Always go with the least amount of lift possible ... for several reasons. FWIW, blocks tell me this is an XJ kit. The XJ starts out with SOA. The MJ is SUA -- blocks would LOWER an MJ, not lift it. Lol every time you quote me, I think to myself "damn what did I say wrong this time" hahaha As Eagle said the blocks will actually reduce the lift on an MJ because of them being sprung under axle. So I doubt it's a true MJ kit if it has blocks. And again the AAL will only give you half of what it says it will. Also AAL will and do make the leafs sag faster. Many people don't like rough country and knock it. IMO it's a good starter kit. It will ride 'good' for you and do what you ask of it. However, once you upgrade to a much better kit you will realize the ride sucks a big one. If this is the kit you're looking at it has shackles and not blocks. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-626-20.html IMO you would be better off doing this, for basically the same amount of money with a MUCH better lift. But instead of going SOA I would get new leaf packs from hellscreek http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/

The adjustable trackbar is good. It would be really nice to have adjustable arms because if you do deside to lift it more down the road the arms could be made longer to work with the new lift hight. The transfer case drop kit, is EH. It is nothing more than a bandaid to cover up the real issue. Brake line drop as well are just a band aid. I would NOT ever run blocks on anything of mine. Why is that you ask, please check this out: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1021916 And if this is a kit for an XJ, that AAL will only give you half of what it says it will. Let me guess, is this a RC lift? Looks are all up too you. Here's 4.5" on 33's on an XJ so yours would look pretty much the same. I have in the works for my MJ 4.5" lift and 35's and a lot of trimming.Personally I beleive in LowCOG over skyhigh lifts..mostly becasue it is a matter of saftey. Please read this if your wondering about Low COG set ups: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/low-cog-suspension-setup-tricks-tips-revised-9-24-12-a-32980/ Preformance wise, that will up to you as well...with what youre going to be doing with it.

For 33's, you don't need more the 4.5"