92tanMJ

Same here

And don't forget the SYE and driveshaft

Getting back to the OP's questions, which Ford 4-holers injectors do you have? If you have the 24# version on a non-aspirated stock engine, they will not help your MPG, especially with the Renix computer. Also have you checked your fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge set, and what gear ration are you running? Not only that, but what brand O2 sensor is it?

You probably want to start a build thread..

This. ^ Now don't get ahead of yourself upgrading the intake and forget about the exhust 'till later'. Air can only come in as fast as its going out and vise versa

That is not true. They will hurt a bit in town but not on the highway. With his tires, assuming he has 3.07 gears and doing 65, he will be right at 2395 RPM. And 2300 is about the sweet spot for I6. Now you can have tires that are too big for the gearing, like on my comanche. I was 3.07 and 31's. Doing 65 I run at about 2100, but I do 75 (speed limit is 70 in OH and KY) so it bumps me back up the 2300 RPM range and I get about 20 MPG. In my cherokee with 3.55, aw4, auto, I do about 70 and get about 22 mpg. Clicky clicky for tire size vs gearing to give you, your rpms...http://www.offroaders.com/tech/gear-ratio-chart.htm Clicky clicky for an indebth look at it http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html And as his tires are basically 1 inch larger than the ones you suggest, the amount he would save in town would not off set the cost of a new set of tires. And as being that he is 71 a taller truck is, and will be easier to get in and out off.....there is only .5 of a hight difference in the two but it still helps some. For example, how a standard toliet is 15" off the floor and a handicap toliet is 17". Those 2" make a huge difference, even though two inches is very small but I digress. An other way you could get better mpg is doing the adjustable MAP sensor mod: (write ups- ordered best to eh, IMO) http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoMAPsensor.htm http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/diy-map-sensor-voltage-aduster-53381/ http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/MAP_adjuster.html

Congrats Cruiser! I second what Jim said! No matter what forum I'm on youre always here to help out!

There's a difference between being too cheap to pay for one, and knowing when not to just throw parts at the problem. This is my parking break problem and Ive look at it just havent taken it out. The it not really working very well is because of my piss poor drums(which are on order). So I already looked into the problem..all mine needs is rebuilt drums and an adjustment.

What's fair is all relative. I wouldnt and don't need to pay 50 bucks plus shipping for a parking break you say works...when I heard more times then not, parking breaks in general, that they don't work...Hints why there that parking break rebuild thread. I'm sure all mine needs is rebuilt drums and an adjustment. My probably isnt that it pops off, its that it doesnt stop and flies up to the hood release when undone.

Oh I personally was talking about Jims but that would work too I guess

go to a junkyard and take the time to pull one. it's going to be less of a headache. Lol. That would require a local yard that has an MJ...MJs are pretty rare in Ohio IMO..Ive only ever seen 4 in person. The 1st one I saw I bought :brows:

I just want my parking break to work.......

Take some pictures and measurements and maybe we can get some cad files drawn up

"The prices shown in the catalog reflect the lowest prices that we are able to offer at that time." Lmao I know right. I guess that means they loose money on all of the closet out stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1315943&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I run neons in mine and no complaints here. Picked mine up at the upull-it and rebuilt them for like less than 20 bucks.

First off drain the hard water as it will kill your cooling system. Replace it with 50/50 or the whole stuff and use distilled water you can get at kroger or whatever for like a buck. Secondly, if I had to guess, I would put on its the sensor at the rear of the block RIGHT next to the firewall. Mine had the random jumping problem and that solved it. You could alway change the one in the front out as well...but again I would put money on it being the one in the back.

Thank you all for you help. Someone else with a HO that they know most of the factory vacume lines are still in place- if it is not to much to ask, do you think you could snap me some pictures or a video of where everything is supposed to go? lol That would help me a lot more than the diagram I'm looking at

Bump? For the manifold picture..having some issues with my truck and they might be related to the tps or the vacume lines.

I have a question/issue I could some help on. It may or may not be related. But I had this EXACT same problem (see above) but it was the fuel gauge in stead of the volts gauge (and still full tank is only 3/4th on the gauge). So I got into the MJ today, started it up, and the RMPs jumped to about 2K for a bit. (that's not the first time it's done that after sitting for a few weeks) So I started driving and it worked fine. But then when I started to give it gas before even letting the clutch out the RMPs would drop and it would start to die. (So giving it a little extra more throttle than normal "solved" that problem for the time being as I had to just to go the store and I would deal with it later.) Once I started to drive I noticed my Volts dropped to 9 (or whatever that lower mark is) then it raised back up after about 30 seconds. But once I got the stop light my volts and RPMs both started to drop to point where it wanted to die. So I gave it a bit of throttle and the volts went back up. But I had to do that all the way to walmart and when I finally got there. I turned it off and drove it back without any issues. Let me know if any of that doesnt make sense. lol Fuel Sender Unit Bad? Bad ECU? Or bad harness, or moisture, or a short? Any ideas? I personally think it might be the TPS or maybe the MAP?

And you traded your MJ for that?? How nice was your MJ????

Lol no where did I say I had flares, so I don't get your point... But since my finders are uncut, that's still a mute issue because the flares don't effect how much room there is, the sheet metal does No, the flares extend both down and outward from the sheet metal. Large tires on aftermarket rims that might not hit the sheet metal could very easily still hit the flares. I highly doubt the inch in either direction would really make a difference..but thanks for clearing that up for me. Now that I reread my post I kinda sound like a douche but that was not my goal

Great build man! Looks awesome!

Lol no where did I say I had flares, so I don't get your point... But since my finders are uncut, that's still a mute issue because the flares don't effect how much room there is, the sheet metal does

Lol geez! I'm suprised you found it! Hope you hear back form him!

I have 31/10.5/15 on my MJ the rubbed at full lock so I did the washer trick and had no issues. Then I wanted that wide stance so I got some 2" wheel spacers and have no had any issues with it. Even with flexing Ive had no issues..see page 3 of my build thread below for some pictures