92tanMJ

Unless you want the "stance" get the LCAs. And running spacers is a whole 'nother topic in-of-itself .

Washer bottle still fits, but relocating it inside the fender frees up engine bay space. It's your call. Yes, I meant headlight harness. Sorry. The main connecting plug is different. The individual bulb plugs for signals are different too (IIRC). I decided it was easiest just to adapt the late model harness to the comanches plug. Correct the bottle still fits in the bay but this gives your ability to free up some space as stated. You have to drill a whole for the filler neck to go into the bay. I didnt try to use the old plugs and my header panel didn't come with the harness just the bulb sockets and some wire. I couldnt figure out how to wire it right without getting feed back in the system..But I finally got it down to where just the passenger side doesnt work when the headlights are on. IMO I would just mate the two harnesses. Here's some links for you: http://comancheclub.com/topic/17155-adapting-mj-headlight-harness-to-97-xj-harness/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/19815-97-headlight-wiring-harness-diagram/ Here's some dude who went the whole 9 yards lol http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/BensXJ.htm *Sorry about the double post* I could get the quotes to work when I edited my first post

Its off by a lot ones round and the other is more "squarer"

I need to do this....Did you have a link to where you bought the bracket?

My appogies Eagle. Guess I was given some ghetto spacers

Impossible. Absolutely impossible. That's why I said to use 2" spacers. 1" spacer would be like 3/4 - 1/2 inch of actual lift which is hardly noticeable unless you're really looking. It all depends on how much rake he has. If a rear SOA lifts the back 5-1/2 inches and he used 4-1/2 inch coils in front, then he doesn't need to lift the front 2 inches (or 1-3/4") to level it out. That would be too much. A 1-inch spacer adds 1 inch. A 3/4-inch spacer adds 3/4 of an inch. How you conclude that a 1-inch spacer would only lift the front by a half inch is a mystery to me. I was not attacking you in my comment. I was just merely stating that for the sake of conversation. I have 2" spacer sitting in my tool box and theyre like 1 5/8" and my buddies 1" spacer was like 5/8". And most spacers (a year ago when I was looking at getting some) had a fine print that was less than the advertised. I guess it's possible to get spacers that are nominal. But I personally havent seen them, again doesnt mean it's not possible. Its kinda like a 2x4...It's actually 1.5x3.5.

Ah well thanks anyways...Ill shoot him an email this week and report back what he says....Unless he has a thread in the vender section nad maybe its there?

None of this will add lift. The easiest answer is to add front spacers. On a level service measure the difference from the center of the hub straight up to the lip of the flare. No jack up the front body until you have the stance that you want. Re-measure fromt he same points. The difference is the height that you need. Sometime switching to XJ shackles in the rear will lower it about .75" and that might be the correction you are looking for. Not true on the track bar. If he is use the stock trach bar it will pull the front end down and jacking all kinds of things up. You probably think I'm blowing smoke out my butt but I saw that on XJ/MJ proud..someone really did use the stock track bar on 4.5" lift. I would assume rusty's comes with an adjustable track bar, but that doesnt mean he made it long enough lol And I second the second part of his post about jacking up the front end till it is level where you want it. Then just get the spacer/coil to match :thumbsup: That's why I said to use 2" spacers. 1" spacer would be like 3/4 - 1/2 inch of actual lift which is hardly noticeable unless you're really looking. gomjgo you could always replace the stock MJ shackle with a stock XJ shackle and lower the rear some to match the front. I know some people do it but I'm not sure about the adverse effects of the shorter shankle and the resualting angle.

Short answer: Yeah soa gets you closer to 5.5" in the rear. I would just get a 2" coil spacer because that will be more like 1 5/8" Either that or drop the cash for another set of new coils. Long answer: Currently, what parts/set do you have on your truck? And what's your plans for it? At 4.5" plus you need a new adjustable track bar no question about it and new LCAs. And Yes you need to adjust everything in your kit to your specs.

If they were just spinng the oil wouldnt help. Glad to hear you got it off though. :thumbsup:

Call ahead before ordering and ask for Joe. Tell him you are a CC member for a discount. http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm Do you have any idea how much the discount is by chance?

Have you checked the fuses in the engine bay? (assuming you have a HO)

Junk yard would probably have a couple cheap if theyres one close to you. Or someone parting out an MJ or XJ. Pretty sure the one in my 92 and 98 are the same... On the later models it's behind the glove box but same issue

Didn't they weigh it at the scrap yard? Yes, Jim they sure did. But it's been 8 mounths since then lol just remember I got a couple buck over 20 for it. Freshly painted trucks and beds four sober guys..... Don't ask me how I know that. :fs1: It's even more annoying when youre the sober one

If it doesnt blow out in the vents in heat mode as well then it's most likely a vacume issue or the flappers stuck on defrost

I was just going to recomend that. The plastic looks like its the same plastic they use for the flairs. :dunno: I think I would try the heat last..can't really turn back from that lol

Yep there is a vacume ball in the fornt bumper. I would check that first, is they become damaged pretty easiley. Does it blow out of the vents in heat mode? If not I would check the vacume lines, the mechanical flapper, and check to make sure the hoses are still hooked up the the dash vents.

Wow. My apologizes 88-mj-petersen, theyre not normally douche bags like this. Sorry for your thread turing into this. Pete, would you please lock this down. There is no need for people to be acting like this and I don't see this going anywhere good. Plus the thread has already been answered.

I thought it was around 200 lbs. Me and my dad had no issues carring it and putting it into his 250. I got 23 bucks from the scrap yard. four people did make it a heck of a lot earier to put on though

Yep. The overload doesn't came into play until...wait for it....the other springs are overloaded... :D Exactly, the overload is supposed to stop overloading of the springs, which will make them invert....something like this; this was the best picture I could find lol

I had an issue similar to this and this did not fix it. But it seems to fix 90% of the issues with most cherokees (MJs too I would assume). I have problem like yours and I would like to see where this goes. :popcorn: My issue is the breaks and turns being on at the same time just like you. But if I turn the headlights on, my left signal works fine but my right stays solid. lol Edit: I think my issue is caused my feed back from the running lights on the passenger side

... Wish I had a D44... :popcorn:

That is one unique paint job man! I could not pull that off lol

You said aftermarket...but I doubt you will find any aftermarket bumpers in the junk yard. I have seen people put stock s10 and JK bumpers on and that's about it. Bumpers for the XJ will bolt right up (or weld or however it's supposed to mount). I don't know why your looking for other model's bumper to try and make them fit when you have a large selection to choice from for an XJ. Many people even offer custom ones. http://www.jcroffroad.com/category/XJ.html http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-bumpers/cherokee-xj.htm http://www.ebay.com/bhp/jeep-cherokee-off-road-bumper http://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_bumpers_towing_racks/default_cherokee.php http://www.nates4x4.com/category_s/1821.htm Just my two cents.

Yeah its 5 or 10%