Cabz

It's the intake ports manifold that are diffrent on the HO's. The header will bolt up but, there will not be a provision for the EGR cross over tube so you will have to block the opening in the bottom of the intake when you pull the EGR tube off. Also you have to use the 88 O2 sensor , the 92 sensor works diffrently . You might want to check the threading on the O2 sensor bungs to make sure they have the same thread pitch . Hope this helps :D

I don't know about 2.8 starters, but the 4.0 starters bolt in from front to rear through the BH and the 2.5's have 2 bolts straight up like a SBC.

Yup , I have an internal slave ax15 BH I don't need . It also has an almost brand new slave cyl with it , I picked up an external slave BH for my MJ a few days ago.

If you don't find a BH local , I have an internal BH with a new slave I'l let go real cheap + shippin.

The only reason I could see for runnin an SYE on a MJ is for the feature of being able to remove the rear DS without loosing fluids, Just in case you whack the rear DS while wheeling ( had this happen on a trip to tellico on an XJ )

thats the sound of that pukegoat time bomb gettin ready to explode. Mine has the shifter flailing around like an epileptic in third gear and has started to POP outta reverse gear quite nastily. It's only a matter of when not if.

The only diffrence is that I started with a brand new set of leafs and did both at the same time , I swapped in my D44 at the same time. I agree with you on the bad leaf pack my only problem is that I just spent MONTHS! trying to get rustys to make good on a bad coil can you picture what he'll say when I start calling about a bad leaf pack :wall:

I left all of the bushings hand tight till it was at rest on the ground then I tightened them up , as far as the Ubolts I tightened them to spec in the air after I drove it for a while I retightened them. It wasnt till I started keeping the gas tank full that I started to notice the DS sag , It was sagged more to the front because of a collapsed coil :mad: Once I swapped out the coils I noticed the rear still sagged :cry: I don't know if it is because of the wait I had to get a new front coil outta rusty that allowed the rear to collapse more because of the added lean in the front . I am just disgusted with the whole deal , All I wanted was a lifted MJ .

Ever read my sig? Yeah, there's the occasional person who love's rusty's. I had somebody on JeepForum tell me that I was wrong about the LA kit that I had bought/installed, when he had done neither such things... Although, normally his springs are supposed to be fine, as I said, out-of-house. Yup I read your sig ................ a day late though :cry: I have had good rustys springs and a few other parts pass my way , they where good but seems that that was justa fluke :headpop:

On the front of my MJ I have allready replaced the front rustys spring , while I was in there I added a 3/4 spacer and another factory isolator to get the old girl to the 4.5" of lift I wanted ( I have a heavy azz bumper :eek: ). It Only took about 5 weeks of calling and wrestleing with rustys to get that taken care of :mad:. I guess the best thing to do would be to add another leaf to the pack and swap sides maybe that will get it close . It just kinda sucks that I bought a kit and have had such a load of greif with it , Well I guess ya live,learn and try not to make the same mistakes again :D

Has anyone had an issue with there lifted MJ leaning to the drivers side? I have the 4" rustys springs and the MJ leans an inch to the drivers side rear :cry: I don't know if it is because ole rusty made me wait for a few months with a sagging coil , or if the springs just don't like 1 person and a full tank of gas. also for any one rustys victims ( :eek: oops I mean customers ) with there rear leafpack how does your handle a load ? I had roughly 400lbs ( very high estimate ) in the bed of the MJ most of the heavy stuff was to the front of the axle in the bed , and the poor ole MJ was dragging some azz. It damn near looked stock hieght in back.

Well it turns out it was the MC , A brand new bendix at that . the piston did not want to return all the way . I swapped it out and now shes good as new :D

the 242 can be in either 21 or 23 spline Pre ho and HO is the break I thinkx :D the 242 in my daughters XJ has 253,000+ miles on it and it is just now needing a chain and front output bearing. the 242 seems to be a real good tcase for our apps YJ /TJ owners don't like em because a slip yoke eliminator is not readily availible for them , just hac and taps at this point.

Pulling the pump is a PITA but if you remove the airbox and electric fan it is a lot easier to get too. as far as expence I'm thinking about $75.00 depends on if you get it with or without the resivior and pulley .

nope it's the right fluid :cry: and the master cylinder was replaced about 6 months ago and I did not notice this little issue til today :roll: I was thinking MC but even if I try and pump it up ( kinda like a bad brake MC) it does not help at all.

Most of the time those 12 point bolts come out ok. When you pull the brake rotor wire brush down the three bolts that hold the wheel bearing on from the rotor side then soak in wd-40. that will help em :D I always have an extra wheel bearing just in case I have to beat the old one loose , sometimes they rust on ( remeber anti seize is your friend when putting the new bearing in :D )

those silly ole d30's will leak whenever you pull a shaft out or change a unihub, every one I have owned has leaked a time or too . If you have bad Ball joints they tend to leak , and if the axle joints are bad they tend to leak . As long as you are not loseing fluid constantly or for more than a week you should be good , Just always check the fluid regularly. My daughters XJ d30 leaks from one side or the other for no reason , just for a day or two then it stops :roll: . My YJ leaked for about a month out of that disco side seal and then one day it just stopped that was 2 years ago and it hasnt leaked a drop since. By the way carrier shims on a d3o are under the carrier bearings , sounless you pull them you'll not see any :D

I have been noticeing a strange problem lately , whenever it is realy hot outside 92+ and the MJ has been running for a while ( especialy with the A/C goin) the clutch pedal goes down a lot farther than normal before the clutch dissengauges, and as soon as I think about letting the pedal up it wants to start movin, The trans has not started biting gears and there is no creep forward yet ( hasent gotten that bad yet ) but I have never had this problem before on any std trans vehicle I have owned. has anyone else had this issue? the MJ is still runnin the ole pukegoat and the clutch system is not leaking , the MC is a new bendix MC the clutch setup has a few miles left in it as well. once it cools down the whole thing works just fine and normal. :dunno: any ideas?

a 2wd ax15 should swap right in , you'll probably have to swap out the pilot bearing but it should go in smooth. how soon are you planning a 4x4 swap ? it would be a lot easier work/time to swap in the ax15 and tcase now this way you don't have to do it again down the road. also what part of the US are you in? I have access to a 2wd ax15 in FL

I picked up my MJ d44 for $350.00 it has 3.55 gears and it had a busted trac lock. $250.00=$350.00 is generaly what I see em go for

So hear I am :headpop: I figured I would post up the latest :mad: I Finaly got my replacement spring and new ( second set ) sway bar end links. Well you see it's like this. I ordereda "4.5" MJ lift kit " which means it comes with 4.5" Lift springs, Well seems rusty himself sent me out a 2" lift spring instead :nuts: and the sway bar end links are wrong as well , this time too short . I called rustys and rusty said they would get that spring out to me right that afternoon and rush it as well................... I'll see it round 2009? I just had too share :D

Cool, I'll Give the old YJ lines a try , Since I just happen to have a spare set :D

What is that? The pic is so bigt it's hard to make out. Is that a rubber brake line?

I have been told that with a 4.5" lift I can use an 87 YJ front brake line set? Is anyone useing this setup? have you had it flexed all the way with the wheels turned to lock?. I have the stock XJ/MJ lines on it now with the hard line dropped as far as it will go. and if I flex it at all with the wheels turned to lock the ole brake line is as tight as a banjo string. Tanks :D

It's the master cylinder that has most likely taken a dump, Check the fluid in the resivoir if it is full and you have no brakes Get a new master cylinder.