Cabz

Does anyone have a good aw4 21 spline near central fl? the one in the daughters XJ gave it up at 301,540 miles and she needs a trans bad . this is her DD and only transport. lemme know

I have allready done all of those things :???: thats why this is such a pain in the arse. the alt is putting out great . all the cables are new and all the connections are tight . I even pulled the headlights and cleaned the plugs , I also pulled the headlight wire main plug and cleaned it . still dim as hell after a while . I even went so far as to pull the bulkhead connector and it is just as clean and pretty as the day it was built .

Bump :D

Yup it is pulling more amps , but why ? :dunno: It must be bad connection somewhere. , a bad conection will get hot and cause the circut to draw more amps . I am sure when new they worked just fine so age and weather are my best guess as to what has caused the issue Now I need the where :D as far as the cold goes , I am a transpalnt new yorker , I know the cold you speak of When it is cold out it drains the battery somewhat so the alt senseing this charges them hard till they come up to the right voltage and then settles out , that could also be the signs your batt is drying

Just figured I would see if anyone else has had and reparied this issue. Both my MJ and the daughters XJ run good and everything works well, at an idle during the day the volt meter is dead center . at night when we turn on the headlights the gauge drops a bit as it should . After about 15 minuetes of haveig the lights on they get very dim and the volt gauge now reads lower by a bit and if we turn on the heater fan or a/c on high the volt gauge drops to the red . I am figureing there is a bad connection or a large resistance in one of the wiring conections . we both have new alternators, headlight switches, batt cables and so on . the jeeps are both renix jeeps and I have pined all the fuse links and I am getting 13.5 volts out of them and 13.5 out of tha alt at idle even thought the gauge reads around 9 volts and the lights are dimm enough to make that look about right . so it sems as the issue is after the fuse links and before the fuse box . any Ideas? has anyone had an solved an issue like this?

Ithough about that , but the front DS coil is so broken down it is way to soft . it is almost collapsed so the lower coils are touching themselves

Funny you should say that pete, I specificly told rustys when I ordered there lift kit " i have an extremely heavy warn winch bumper , will you coils hold up?" they said " sure no problem" and since they sold the same bumper/mount on there web site I thought at the time they knew what they where talking about :roll:

any idea who rustys gets there springs from? so I can STAY AWAY from them! what kind of winch mont do you have? I have the warn winch bumper which is way damn heavy it's gotta be around 200lbs by itself . thats one of the reasons why the crustys springs are now about dead.

I am still dealing with em cause I havent had the cash to replace them, But it is making me crazy to see the ole girl lean like it is broke . So I figure do the reaserch now and fix it after the first of the year. I realy don't wan to have to fight with it again so I wanna make sure I get the right springs. It seems the LWB MJ has a tendancy to sag to one side since the gas tank is on the DS and I usualy ride by myself and take into account the warn bumper and winch together weigh about 250lb+ I am gonna need a strong set o coils

OK I have had enough of these garbage rustys coils :evil: damn MJ leans to one side and it's makin me crazy. does anyone know who makes the stiffest/ highest rate front coils? rustys are 150lb rate but with the warn winch bumper and winch the coils have sagged to about 3" of lift instead of the 4.5" they are supposed to be and the DS has sagged another 1" past the pass side I am thinking I might have to run a 6.5" coil to keep the MJ at 4.5 with the weight up front any ideas?

well if ya ever have the MJ up in these parts, gimme a ring :D

True the FSM list those as the readings you want. I am going of the scanner specs , I have set them both ways and the scaner spec seems to be better of for the jeep . Mine is set at .65 and I'm getting round 22MPG If your commin up for jeeptoberfest bring the ole MJ and I'll scan her for ya :D

no problem brent , just keep in mind thour .76 is still a bit high, the rande is .60-.70 . Mine is set a .65 just to be safe :D

glad to hear ya got it going better brent , but get that heep on a scanner and get the TPS set right :D you'll be glad you did .

I was just thinkn this morning about a problem i had with a ford van a couple years ago that was doing the exact same thing and it was a bad tps (voltage to high ) . i didnt think of as u said u replaced it but Cabz is right check the voltage first either with a scanner or just backprobe it at the tps , the voltage should be between .5v-.8v if it is any higher there is a problem . o and check it with the KOEO and the iac hooked up when I first got my MJ i had to swap the tps , I tryed every method to adjust it except the scanner and never got it close . the only way to be sure is to set it with a scanner . if it is not set right the whole jeep will act retarded. also sometimes after setting them you have to disconect the battery to reset the ecu or it will still act stupid. Renix is a funny thing sometimes if the tps is not between .60 and .70 it won't work worth a hoot

Before you tear into it, did you have it on a scanner? what was the tps voltage reading? If not I have an mt2500 scanner with the renix plug . Lemme know :D

Brent , have you had the jeep on a scanner (MT2500 or the similar )? . most of the renix ecu failures I have seen show them selfes as a miss, most of the time the #4 injector won't work because of no signal. yours sounds like a massive vacume leak. Have you checked the intake gasket? also do you have a "c101" conector ? the c101 if you have it will be above the brake booster . check for bad wires and or conections.

yup all 4 are shot , and this is not an offroad jeep , ( can be but it's my DD work truck ) I don't know what kinda chinese bushings they used in them but they are gone. I had to replace the shackle bushings ( 242,000 miles on them ) last week and I could actualy pull the metal sleeves out of the spring bushings . since I put this lift on in 06 and it has less than 40,000 miles on it I am less than happy to have to swap bushings at this point , considering that the stock springs had 200,000 miles plus on them and they still had good bushings :mad: I think mine where made in canada as well.

Does anyone know if the rustys 4" lift springs take stock size bushings? all 4 on mine are shot , when I first bought them they said they did use stock bushings now they say they don't :headpop: :mad: Gotta love rustys :roll:

Hey Brent I figured that since these rustys spring won't hold a load worth a damn the wieght of the stuff in the bed is what killed the bushings , since the springs sag so much it just tears em up ( must be chinese rubber :D ). so I figured the urathane would hold up better? I might be able to handle the squeaking better than feeling the rear end shift and hear it banging around on four toasted bushings.

stay as far away from rustys as possible . there kit sucks I have had bushing issues with everything that comes with thier kit as well as broken track bar sagging coils soft crappy shocks and the rear springs won't cary anykind of load without major sag. thats just my veiw , I am sure you'll get more

Does anyone know where I can find urathane leaf spring bushings for stock packs? my crustys leaf packs have had all the bushings go bad . rustys says they use the stock size bushings but rather than fight the stock style back in I would like to find urathane two peices bushing with the center sleeve . lemme know :D

I used to own a rampside pickup, I do miss that thing . The rust on it was to bad for a resto so it went to a guy in jax fl that needed it for parts it was an orgon donor

on another rustys trac bar note, has anyone ever had the TRE that they send with the track bar snap off at the jamb nut? this happened to my daughters XJ right after we lifted it. she was backing out of a parking spot in daytona beach and POW! rustys said when I called them " you left the jambnut loose" which I didnt the jamb nut was on the broken end of the TRE . They said they would send another TRE since it had only been 1 month old , I am still waiting 2 yrs later for it to arrive. sorry for the rant

I actualy tried the spring swap and it resettled rather fast to the same thing, Then I raised hell with rustys and they sent me one spring and that didnt help. As far as replaceing the lift I do plan on that , but I want to figure this out before because if I swap the lift and it still leans I'm a gonna snap :eek: :D My friend lwb MJ has a rough country 3" lift and his sags as well so thats why I am just not saying it's all a rustys issue . just wanna spend wisely and only once more ;)