Cabz

Replaceable only , while you have it off do all the orings , It will save you from havein to pull it off again

Huh? :hmm: Past 96 , the H.O motors don't have a temp sender in the back of the head . On the newer 4.0 and 2.5's they use the Ecu temp sensor to read out the engine temp , that sensor is the one in the thermostat houseing.

Funny you should say that ( and very very true ) The factory 4.0 and 2.5 tstats that these engines came with had a weep hole in them for just that reason. I would almost bet if you took your paycheck ;) and went to chrysler to buy a factory tstat it would probably have that weep hole in it as well. :D

I got away with out haveing to purge the air through the temp sender when I swapped to open , I filled the rad and squeezed the hoses as I went. As long as the water in the rad moves and does not bubble when you squeeze the hoses all the air is just about gone. I also converted the old pressure bottle into an overflow bottle , the first time I cranked up the MJ I let it run till it opened the tstat and then I shut the heep off. since the overflow bottle was damn near full , as the jeep cooled it drew in enought coolant to top it off perfectly .

Modine is about the best, I have a two core modine in mine . I went with the two core becase it carrys the same volume of water as the three core and won't stop up as easily. Make sure if your converting to open sys that you replace the heater block off /bypass valve and FLUSH THE SNOT!!!! out of the heater core and block, most of the trash that will clog a rad is just waiting in there to screw your cooling sys up again

Yup the mechanical fan is not affected by the electric fan sw at all. The elec fan is only supposed to come on at two times , 1st is controlled by the ECU it turns the fan on at temps above 210 to help out with cooling ( me thinks) and second whenever the A/C is on . but if you run it all the time most MJ's will run right at the themostat rated temp.

thats the bastard stepchild switch ;) Some early setups where in the lower rad hose and some where in the rad itself. With a good new cooling system the jeep should not overheat. I run the cooling fan all the time just to be safe . All you have to do is cut and jump the switch leads together and wala perma fan :D you can run a switch to it if you like , I try and stay outta deep water so I left mine straight wired.

As far as mileage goes , I have 31's 3.55 gears and a dead accurate speedo and I get 23.5 Hwy and not near that in the city ( maybe betwee 16 and 18 depending on A/C and skinny pedal :D )

I was wondering if anyone has run across the 88 MJ paint color " grenadine" it's the metalic brown , I am in need of some touch up spray if possible . it's either TU or full paint for the old girl , the clear coat is dead and I'm starting to see metal :eek:

X2 on the rollbar :agree: :D

Also on a side note , if you have any bushings that are coverd in oil and have been for a while . Oil breaks down rubber making it super spongey after a while , if you have any like that it's a good Idea to change them . A super spongey bushing is like none at all

Use a large screw driver and a flashlight , Look nito each joint and make sure the rubber is not cracked and that the sleeve in the rubber bushing is still centered . then take pry bar or lg screwdriver and pry the lca's up , down and side to side, your just looking for too much movement and or missing /cracked rubber bushings.

Because sometimes they are like pulling teeth though you ear :headpop: I didnt say not to , just glad he doesnt have to right now :D

Cool Replaceing ball joints realy suck, Glad you won't be doing that soon. :D

I had a line go bad on my MJ , it had R12 in it. I replaced the line and charged with 134a 2 years ago, It will keep you cool on a 95 degree day without any carpet in the cab and 90 Degrees and below it will run you out of the cab. I did no conversion work on it at all, I figured when it toasted itself I would run OBA ................ I'm still waiting :D

Most death wobble I have seen has been from a combination of stuff , the most likly suspects being CA bushings Track bar and always the alingment . if anything is outta whack, a misalinged front end will drag out and put it in your lap :eek: I have seen several people have nazty DW with just the alingment out , just depends on the heep and the usage it has had .

You can also check the ball joints by jacking the side you want to check up till the tire is about 2" off the deck, Then geta good long prybar and slip it under the tire . Next lift up on the bar , usualy you will not have any upward movement if you do they most likely toasted . also grab the tire top and bottom ( while still jacked up of course ;) ) and rock it in and out from top to bottom, this is the way to check the wheel bearings but I have had a bad upper balljoint feel just like a bad wheel bearing . thses operations are best done with a helper to see what is movin while your movin it :D hope this helps

NICE FIND :D you know they only made about 900+ of those in 92 and few where 4x4. so you scored pretty weel even if it doesnt run, Oh and it sounds like someone was definatly useing the ole MJ as a sub, Might have hydro locked it and snapped a rod. Good luck on it and keep us posted :D

:eek: That was one thirsty Puke goat, mine makes a load of noises as well and it's full of fluid. I can here that time bomb tickin louder every day :D

3. one going from the petal under the carpet and under the bed , then two from there one to each wheel. If you have any rust in the floorboard area the main cable likes to get crusted . the wheel end cables are not real expensive new ( under $20.00 a peice ) . Hope this helps :D

Sweet pic, that avatar aint bad either :D

I have just ignored that little boot , when it goes bad I use a shock boot to make the shifter water tight . I had a YJ trans fill with water cause that lil bugger was bad .

Are you talking about that little round black boot/seal on the top of the shifter body? . If so there in a clip under the extention's lip , you can pull it and work the extention off the rubber bushing but.............. IT aint easy :eek: . Why are you trying to break the shifter down?

Do they look at the bottom side of the intake? ( FL has no inspections in my part of the state :D )

It's the intake ports manifold that are diffrent on the HO's. The header will bolt up but, there will not be a provision for the EGR cross over tube so you will have to block the opening in the bottom of the intake when you pull the EGR tube off. Also you have to use the 88 O2 sensor , the 92 sensor works diffrently . You might want to check the threading on the O2 sensor bungs to make sure they have the same thread pitch . Hope this helps :D Can you still pass emissions without the EGR tube? The EGR only comes on at mid rpms not at idle speeds , I would imagine it would pass.