maddzz1

I'm stuck on #3

It even has some type of cage built onto the bed in case you catch some wild animal in your travels.

Check out this link. Here it is: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

I forgot to mention the clunk. Mine started clunking real loud too. Go under the jeep and grab the trac bar up near the frame bracket and with the truck running have somebody turn the wheel from lock to lock. You will probally feel the trac bar jump/bind. I didnt think the castle nut was loose until we pulled the cotter pin and got a ratchet on it and started turning it. Def try tightening that nut first and see if that makes a big difference.

Sorry man. I don't even like when my wife drives my truck. If i take her car to work I tell her to use my mothers car if she has to go somewhere.

I have heard of the sway bar links hitting on the coil springs, but i don't see how the sway bar could hit the fender. Your trac bar may be loose or the frame bracket may be bad. I had alot of play in the steering wheel but only to the left. The whole time i was driving I was having to move the steering wheel to keep the jeep straight. Like my hand was constantly moving between the 12 oclock and the 9 oclock position. After tightening the castle nut on the trac bar at the frame bracket end I no longer have that play in the wheel.

Yeah. The other bushing at the back is in the arms just like the lowers are. I edited the above post with a good pic of the 2WD axle.

EDIT: forgot the 2WD axle doent have a diff housing. Here is a good pic of the 2WD bushing mounts, scroll down to the 2nd pic. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... s&start=75 If you scroll down here to where tha axle was just primed you can see it perfect with the bushings out. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... s&start=60

The axle end bushing for the upper control arm mounts on the axle; not the upper control arm. If you look at an upper control arm that is nor in the truck you will see it only has one bushing. There is a bracket/loop welded to the axle that you have to press the bushing into/out of. It is the bracket/loop that is welded on the axle that the FSM says can bend easily on the 2WD.

Nope. Plug n play. I should be doing the swap next week too.

On the upper control arms where the front bushing mounts on the axle the bracket is different than the 4WD. I think it is the same bushing as the 4WD but the bracket that the bushing mounts in is not as strong. The FSM says to use some tool on the 2 wheel drive to prevent the bracket from bending when removing/replacing the bushing.

Do some of the synthetics already have the Limited slip additive in them? I am also going to do this in my MJ and have seen the Mobil 1 LS. Does the LS mean it already has the additive for limited slip axles?

Link to test sensors: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Nope. Because the radiator cap will be lower in the system than the expansion tank. And you still have the issue of how to control the auxiliary fan. Using a manual switch is easy, but it doesn't allow the system to operate as designed. I never thought about the cap being lower than the exp tank. As for the aux fan, I don't have AC so I don't have one. So, the tank you used is similar to putting in a regular radiator but moving the cap to the highest point.

Think I will order them, what are the parts called? Again, Thanks for your input. Here you go: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation

Would it be possible to keep the closed system as is but put a regular radiator in? Then the only time you would remove the cap is to get water in the system if it overheated on a trail. Would this work?

Very easy. i also bought the good felpro gasket, worth every penny. While you have the cover off i would take the baffles out and clean them. You can use some rtv to put them back in. I also cleaned up the cover and painted it. I poked holes in a piece of cardboard to put the bolts in so i could keep them in order and put them back in the same place they came out of. I also replaced the ccv lines that come off the front and back of the valve cover.

I know alot of guys like older jeeps so i thought id post this. http://providence.craigslist.org/car/762334862.html

The hole in the frame bracket can also wallow out causing the trac bar to contiually come loose. this is the problem with mine.

Well, just look when you try to buy parts for your MJ. Almost every parts site doesnt even list them.

i wouldnt. MJ's are getting harder to find. tj's are common.

I wonder what will happen to those two frogs. Bud-weis-er maybe they will get a job with geico and work with that lizard

A friend of mine let me borrow his lincoln sp-125 plus mig welder with a argon/co2 tank and a mask so i can learn to weld. It looks like i can use it almost indefinately. I'm siked, been wanting to learn for a while.

If you were to only lock one axle, would it be better to front or rear? on a 4 wheel drive

looks great. what did you set the pinion angle at?