maddzz1

Pete, Is this the axle you have under your jeep with the radius arms?

I have to do my floor next summer and i just borrowed a welder to teach myself to weld. I am probally gonna order a floor pan from shermanparts.com and put it in with rivets and then weld it. You can buy replacment rockers for pretty cheap. They are seperate pieces. I plan on using the por-15 also in the cab and on the frame and the complete chassis. mfpdm did it on his truck. Check out his incredible build here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... sc&start=0 The por-15 pics are on page 4 and 5. He can probally tell you how much you need.

Motion, Is there anything you have to do to axle ends where the tierod and drag links mount too? Do you use the original knuckles from the MJ?

You mean these: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation

Here's a cargo light without switches. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9861 Thanks man. But I think i will need the wiring too. I think there is a wire connected to the cargo light that i need to run to that plug

It depends what temp thermostat you have. I believe the oem thermostat is 195*

I can get a set of all 4 dash switches for $15. But i wonder if anyone might have a cargo light? ;) What actually plugs into it? if one wire runs down to the dash and the other wire runs up to the gargo light, then isnt thet plug actually in the middle? or is the wiring that plugs into that actually connected to the cargo light. I'm confused :???:

Then I'm confused. Does the wire from the switch run from the dash up and plug into that? then that runs up to the back of the cab? Would you have to cut out the cab to mount the cargo light?

I had the b pillar panel off today and where the wires come out for the lights there is another plug that looks like the one that the light in the engine bay plugs into. Is this the wiring for the cargo light? it looks like it runs up on top of the headliner

Still need a few more people.

Is there a chance the insurance comp took it.

When i replaced mine it was a little tight on the passenger side too. But the petcok on the new one was a little different. it empties out toward the fender and the old one emptied toward the engine.

Is your first space supposed to be a 9 and not a 0? 1st digit =year: 7=87,8=88,9=89 2nd/3rd digit =month: 01-12 4th digit =type: Hx,Mx,Cx,Nx (see below for code) 5th/6th digit =day: 01-31 Letter Code: Hx= CID Liter:150-2.5L Fuel system:TBI Comp Ratio: 9.2:1 Mx= CID Liter:243-4.0L Fuel System:MPI Comp Ratio: 8.8:1 Cx= CID Liter:258-4.2L Fuel system:2V Comp Ratio: 9.2:1 Nx= CID Liter:360-5.9L Fuel System:2V Comp ratio: 8.25:1

It sounds like the only thing left is the radiator unless you have a clog in the heater core. Did you try hooking a hose up and flusing the heater core both ways? or I believe you can connect the hoses without going into the firewall (bypassing the heater core) and see if it overheats. If it doesnt you will know the problem is probally a clog in the heater core. I am not sure how to do this so hopefully someone else will chime in but I remember reading a thread where someone did this because they didny need heat and the core was bad.

if it idles high AFTER it warms up it may be the O2 sensor. Until the engine warms up it runs on some preset info. Once it warms up it starts using all the sensors for info. You cannot remove/shim the IAC/ISA. It controls how much air is allowed in the throttle body tp mix with the fuel

I'm sure the po just painted it.

Yes, don thats what were talking about. I got one done today and it seems to be staying but in the corners it seems to seperate a little and since there was some adhesive on there originally I figured i would put some on.

I am in the process of installing some 97+ weather stripping around my doors and am going to recover my headliner while it is all apart. When I peeled the old stripping off there was some sticky adhesive that held it to the cab. does anybody know what it is called? or what i can use? since the crevise is very thin i assume something i can put on with a small brush.

On a part like ball joints spend the money on good ones. The warranty is great but do you really want to do the job again next year? Id rather buy the moogs and know they will last probally as long as the jeep

Where did you find moog ball joints for $26? If it is the ebay site they are not moog even tho the site says they are. They are omix ada ball joints. I sent them an email about it and reported them to ebay. Its gonna cost you about $90 for the uppers and $70 for the lowers. $30 apiece for the u-joints form ok4wd.com

I would defiately do both sides. I am having mine done in the next few weeks. I got u-joints for both sides also and I got moog uppers and lowers for both sides. I was gonna try it myself but my mechanic said he would do all of it for $150 so i am just gonna have him do it. My truck is also an 89 U-joints are 260X for spicers Moog ball joints are part# 3134 for upper and 3137 for lower. Rockauto is the best prices i found for the moog ball joints and ok4wd.com has good prices on the u-joints.

Have you had alot of problems with the xj? Tell him you'll sell the xj if he will match whatever you sell it for. Get a good reliable DD and then save for an MJ. If he won't match it tell him there is no guarantee the used car you buy will not break down also and that atleast the engine you have now is easy to work on, parts arent to expensive, and it is one of the most reliable engines around (Assuming it is a 4.0)

That jeep looks like it has some nice potential. Congrats on that pick up. Make sure take pics. A 2wd to 4wd post for the DIY section would be nice.

Here you go: http://www.madxj.com/ Click on tech articles, then on adjustable ball joints. The process is the same for regular ball joints.

Thanks, Ill try and swap them tomorrow. :cheers: