gogmorgo

I'm sorry, but it sounds like you're paying someone to fire the parts cannon at it? You either need to find another shop that will actually do some diagnostics on it, or find somewhere you can work on it yourself. I've had a few similar issues sure. A dying fuel pump could do it, but they need to confirm the problem first, whether or not it has adequate fuel pressure, if the fuel pump is getting proper voltage, if it's got a good ground... there are common failure points in the wiring on both ends. I've also had a failed throttle position sensor do similar, because then it's relying on the o2 sensor to adjust mixture, and can't respond to sudden changes in throttle. I've also had a bad cam/sync sensor do it... the list goes on.

How does it work with a factory front bumper? Or does it?

Ballast resistor is likely if it will fire and run for a second or two then quit, as it is bypassed during cranking. Easy enough to test, just unplug and jump the two wires together to bypass it. If it fixes the problem then either leave it bypassed or find another one if you really care about quiet fuel pumps.

A big lift would also solve the problem, although I imagine just putting in a shortbed tank off RockAuto would be cheaper and easier.

If it ran fine before you changed the filter, and now doesn't run at all, and the only thing that changed was the filter... Yeah I'm with Pete on this one. There's a slim chance pulling on fuel lines down there disturbed something, so it might be good to check the fuel pump's plugged in and there isn't a leak somewhere. You should be able to confirm fuel flow at the rail either with a pressure gauge or even by just disconnecting a line and turning the key, just protect your eyes while disconnecting in case there's pressure. If you can hear the pump running but you've got no flow at the rail, then I'd go pop the line off the filter and confirm flow there before changing the filter again. Forgive the dumb question, but I've encountered filters with caps over the lines to prevent contaminant ingress... no chance at all they'd still be there?

When you say it doesn't turn over, that means the starter won't turn the engine. If that's the case, either the starter packed it in. They don't always like getting wet. That or water did get into the engine and screwed some stuff up. The air intake is just behind the driver's side headlight. But unless you had water over the hood it's unlikely you sucked enough up to do damage to the engine, and generally if that does happen the engine will quit right away, because water isn't the easiest to compress. I'm going to assume you mean the engine just won't fire, in which case yeah, the distributor getting muddy water in it is a likely candidate.

The requirements for j2807 include starts on a 12% grade, which is a lot to ask out of a clutch pedal that doesn't weigh more than a baby hippo. After having dragged at least 5500lbs up some extended 10% grades in the Rockies with my ax15 ZJ I wasn't excited about repeating it. It held, but let's just say I wasn't going to stop unless absolutely necessary, and I was pretty hesitant about shifting, too. The JT's tire size and gear ratio work out to similar to my ZJ at the time, and the 3.7 only produces 14% more torque than the 4.0, and is tuned for performance at higher rpm, not so much bottom-end torque. But either way there are two sets of axles. The Rubicon/max tow axles have thicker walls and are an inch wider than the standard ones. But you're correct, the small bump in tow rating between the manual Sport and Overland vs the Rubicon is probably more to do with the deeper gears on the rubicon than the sturdier axles, and even with the heavier axles it's still only 4500lbs. It's also interesting that the thing limiting the JT's towing is cooling, so you'd think the manual that isn't adding heat to the "cooling module" is going to be able to move more than than the automatic that needs to maintain a constant temperature and does take away cooling capacity. But maybe the uncooled manual would just overheat itself on j2807's 11-mile 6% grade. We're getting pretty far into the weeds here, though.

You can get someone to pay more for the same tank if you tell them it's bigger.

The XJ doesn't have the two extra fasteners on either side that the MJ does, although they use the same crossmembers. Since you mention it, I'm pretty sure I broke one of mine on one side there early on in my MJ ownership, and I don't think I ever did do anything about it. I've put quite a few miles on it like that, including some towing some fairly heavy loads, and I don't think it's caused me any problems. Thats not to say you don't want to address it ASAP, but you're probably safe if you can't get to it right away.

The Comanche is an MJ. TJ = 1997-2006 Wrangler WJ =1999-2004 Grand Cherokee XJ = 1983-2001 Cherokee YJ = 1985-1995 Wrangler ZJ = 1993-1998 Grand Cherokee There's others but no need to confuse you. Google's your friend. The WJ trans would probably bolt onto your MJ's 4.0, and then you'd have to make your own mount for the crossmember. The tough part would be getting the computer controls to work. If there's a standalone computer running it that wouldn't be too difficult, but if it's built into the ecu, then it gets more difficult. It's not the same automatic from the MJ/XJ platform so you won't be able to run it off XJ computers, either. Your "least work" option is going to be finding another transmission (out of an XJ) or having the one you already have rebuilt.

Any contact can lead to a hole in the tank and a fuel spill. Yeah it's unlikely anything back there will set it on fire, but why take the risk? Gas is also expensive stuff to just dump on the ground.

My only guess is there's more options on the one that only ties 6000lbs, which decreases the payload and safe tongue weight. But I really have no idea there. The Overland/auto is also listed at 6k, despite only 3.73's. There's too much data missing in terms of equipment, so really it's just a guessing game.

This is way more than you probably want to know about tow ratings. https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453 The max tow rating is 7650lbs. That's the Sport (base model), max tow package, automatic. Theres a pretty interesting breakdown of tow ratings here: I'm not sure how exactly how these variants relate to equipment because there's clearly data missing from that chart, but it looks like the manuals top out at 4500lbs in Rubicon spec. This may mean they won't equip the heavy axles on a manual Sport. The gearing choices don't really seem to correspond with tow ratings between manual and auto and Sport and Overland. What I'm finding more interesting about that chart now that I'm looking at it more closely is the payload ratings. Heavier axles cut into payload, but not as much as higher trim levels do. And the optioned-up models take a HUGE chunk out of payloads, dropping them well below factory MJ payload ratings, and don't forget those extra passengers you're hauling also consume payload; put three more of those 150-lb people into it, and the Rubicon/auto is down to 710lbs payload, all of which will be tongue weight on that maximum 7000lb trailer. Hopefully you can get all your personal effects into the trailer. So we've got some interesting data now. Most MJ trims have higher payload ratings than most JT trims. Metric-Tonne MJs have higher payload ratings than all JTs, and could tow more than several JT equipment levels. The MJ has bigger beds, so can also carry more volume, yet it still has smaller overall dimensions. I guess that makes the MJ one hell of a truck.

For those who prefer to watch videos than read articles. They do mention the max tow package axles are the same as the Rubicon ones, with the extra width. I'll point out they misquote the Colorado diesel's max tow rating of 7700lbs. I really want to like it, but it's tough. Even my shortbed MJ looks like the bed is almost too short to be useful, I really struggle with the idea of a five foot. It also looks ridiculous with most of the bed hanging past the axle, and it makes me wonder what it would do to the ride and handling if you did toss even 1000lbs or up to the 1600lb payload rating that far back in the vehicle.

I'd be concerned about welding and reusing a flex plate. The reason they crack is due to metal fatigue, so even if you did do an excellent job welding it up, I don't know how long it would last. It could easily just crack again in short order right next to the weld. For me there was only one way it would go on, IIRC the spacing of the bolts prevented it from lining up incorrectly, as in they're not a perfect circle. I did however make note of how it was positioned in the vehicle when I pulled it. On the HO the timing windows look like they'd line up three ways and be correct, but I had couldn't get it lined up the first way I tried. I'm not positive how the timing windows are on a Renix, though, but the crank bolts will be the same pattern. The flexplate to torque converter bolts don't matter. They line up however they're rotated. Clocking between the crank and trans input isn't critical to function.

https://jalopnik.com/the-2020-jeep-gladiator-costs-35-040-to-62-310-here's-1833680540? Throw all the options at them, and you're looking at over $60k. The $35,000 base model gets you not a whole heck of a lot, although you can spec the $1000 max tow package on it which gives you the same gears as the Rubicon axles, which are possibly also wider than the "normal" ones, although I'm not positive on that. I can't find where I thought I saw that any more. It really does look like it could've been a decent unit for not that huge a premium over competitive trucks, if it only was available with a decent bed. That $33k figure is without destination charges. Jalopnik factors in a ~$1500 charge on top of that for their numbers. Considering the the highest tow rating is the base model and tow package, it wouldn't surprise me if there were more base models than compared to other trucks in the segment, but that's $35,000 for the truck, $1000 for the tow pack, $2000 for an automatic trans, so yeah, that's a $38,000 truck. Then toss in the optional add-ons you're likely to see on the ones sitting at the dealers and that's going to be a $40k truck easy just for the base models. There aren't many manual trucks in the segment from other manufacturers anymore either, so it wouldn't surprise me if you'd have to custom order that one, which will undoubtedly bump up the cost over an automatic.

What crack lines? Are those radial lines cracks? If they're actually cracks, whether "normal" or not, you don't want them there. When mine cracked it was in a jagged ring right around the edge of the washer, just outside the bolt circle.

You know they make extended handles for paint rollers, yeah?

Sorry, but you say you're only running 1.5" of lift, with tires that are ~ 30"... Do you even need adjustables? Factory WJ control arms.

I take my breaks at 9:30, 12, and 2:30. Sorry what were we talking about? Factory axles for '89 were the Dana 35 and Dana 44. The AMC 20 was only available in '86 but has been found on rare occasions swapped under another year (my '91 will have one soon). C8.25's out of an XJs aren't uncommon swaps either. The d35 is by far the most likely, however. The good news is there are factory Jeep disc applications for both the d35 and d44 under ZJs. On the off chance it's an 8.25 you can get them from a KJ. I can't guarantee that pulling the whole setup at a junkyard will result in perfectly bolt-on solutions, but axle manufacturers generally don't redesign components unless they need to. Buy the calipers at a junkyard but don't run them, it's not worth the risk, but exchange them as cores; don't bother with junkyard pads or rotors, just get new. Because it could come up, I don't believe there were factory disc applications for the AMC20 but it's unlikely you've got one so no big deal. But I have seen writeups online for disc conversions from other applications. Check the DIY index for ideas.

Penetrating oils aren't awful for quick squeak hunting but for long-term lube the thin oils tend to run off. I've also used lithium grease with success. Dry graphite sprays work great too.

So an interesting thing happened, as is the way with older jeeps I suppose. During the massive freeze at some point my driver's side wiper arm quit parking all the way down. There was quite a bit of solid ice jammed up on the cowl, so I figured the wiper arm slipped on the spindle. So a few days ago I went to do something about it, because the wiper was sweeping itself off the side of the windshield, past the a-pillar. I was just going to pull the wiper arm and put it back where it should be, but in doing so I noticed the spindle was moving around. So I pulled the cowl off and discovered this: The piece of what I suspect is glass-reinforced nylon holding the wiper linkage broke off. I pulled the bolt, cleaned it up, and dug out the Ukrainian JB-weld equivalent I got from my Lada parts guy a while back, and used that to put it back together, using the bolt to clamp it. Not the cleanest job I know, but it's hopefully only temporary. I let it cure for a couple days before testing out the wipers, and so far it seems to be holding. So that's something else to add to the junkyard shopping list. Haven't called the dealer yet but I'm finding nothing online with the Mopar part number, and I seem to be striking out on getting a new linkage anywhere else. Even rockauto doesn't have a listing. I'll see about calling Lordco tomorrow, they're usually pretty good at obscure stuff.

At this point I'm basically just archiving my collection of stolen memes here.

The other advantage over running an antifreeze coolant over just straight water in addition to the higher boiling point is it's loaded with rust inhibitors. Ideally you'd mix it with de-ionized water which some parts stores will carry, but distilled is fine and a ton cheaper. Just read the label at the grocery store, because I've seen some that have minerals added back for "health"... because that doesn't defeat the purpose of distilled water at all...