gogmorgo

External slave would have a little piston on the side of the bellhousing that the line goes into, secured by a couple studs. Internal just has the line going into a plug in the bellhousing. If you post up a picture of the spot where the clutch line goes into the bellhousing we can make a positive ID for you. Internal is simpler and usually more reliable due to less moving parts, assuming you're buying good quality parts, but the downside is it requires pulling the trans to change it out, compared to an external slave that's just three fasteners. If it started leaking the level in the reservoir would in theory drop, but if there's some gunk in the bottom of the reservoir it's possible it's plugged and the master cylinder isn't sucking the fluid down. It's also possible the master cylinder has a blown seal internally and isn't pushing the slave cylinder, just bypassing it. Any fluid leaking out of the clutch is excessive. Fluid going out means air is coming in, and any air in the system will need compressed before the slave cylinder will move. When it fails, an internal slave cylinder will leak brake fluid out of the dust shield at the bottom of the bellhousing. This might be hard to detect if there's any engine oil leaks, but if you pull the inspection cover off, the leak may be more obvious.

I would disagree. My typical mpg didn't really change by much after locking my CAD, but then my driving habits weren't regular enough for it to be that noticeable, and I was hardly scientific about recording fuel economy. But I had a handful of tanks where I got just over 19 mpg before swapping to a single-piece shaft, and after having done that I never touched 19mpg again. The ring gear, carrier, and driveshaft aren't a ton of weight to get spinning, but it is something, and it will consume extra energy. But before going further down this rabbit hole, does anyone have a suggestion where to put the cable handle? I would think you'd want it somewhere near the tcase handle maybe?

All I know is when I put a new downpipe on my '91 4.0 about six years ago, if I looked up the pipe for a '91 it had the flange, but the same brand listed for a '93 XJ just ended in a straight bit of pipe. I don't remember off the top of my head what brand it was, though, but I'm pretty sure I got it at Napa.

I'm not of a mind that you're saving yourself wear and tear. If anything just moving it. With it locked, you're spinning the driveshaft, ring and pinion, and diff bearings, sure, but they're unloaded. With the CAD unlocked you've got your spider gears going crazy which don't have roller bearings under them, and now your driveshaft ujoints are sitting in one position, which isn't always great for them. My personal objection to the cable actuator is mostly that now you've got something very obviously not factory that you need to put somewhere obvious under the dash or around the shifter, but it's your truck so if that's not a problem to you, I won't argue with you about it. I don't really have a suggestion where to put it, sorry.

I mean there's also nothing stopping me from driving to somewhere that is closer to civilization, other than a 2.5 and 4.10's on stock tires with basically no noise suppression. Really the biggest reason is the truck needs almost everything redone at this point, so I'd rather slowly get all the parts lined up to pull it off the road and do everything at once, rather than doing one piece at a time just to pull it back off to do the next.

All the pie-cut exhaust bends has me wondering if the thing actually runs, or if someone was just trying to show off their tig work.

Not everyone wants to pay someone else to do something they can do on their own? But also no I don't. I kinda live in the middle of nowhere...

My question to you is if it needs installed at all. I'm aware there's a handful of reasons for doing it so no judgement, but I'm definitely in the mindset of just permanently locking it in and forgetting about it, and taking the slight MPG hit.

While we're on the subject, what are people doing for the 2.5? Specifically for my '91. The tail pipe is available online, but I'm not seeing a down pipe at all, for any year XJ even. Walker's catalogue doesn't even have a part number listed for a 2.5 downpipe. Anyone know if the 4.0 downpipe would work? I haven't found a Canadian supplier that has the tailpipe in stock, and shipping a long chunk of pipe up from the states is $$$ so I'm probably at a custom build on this anyhow, but I'm just wondering if anyone else has found something. Seriously it's truck freight only so even RockAuto wants $499.55 just for the shipping

What did the old spark plugs look like when you pulled them? Badly carbonned up, evidence of running lean maybe?

There’s plenty of info out there. Just keep in mind when you’re looking at dyno numbers that unless the runs were done pretty near back to back on the same dynamometer, they’re not likely to be accurate enough for direct comparison. It’s better if you can find someone who took a baseline against a good running stock engine and compares the before and after.

The wire for the sender comes from the gauge, and is supposed to have 12v. The sender is a variable resistor that grounds to the engine block. If you pull the connector off the gauge should read zero, and if you ground it, it should peg the gauge to the top. If that checks out, the issue is between the connector and ground. Probably the sender. Don’t use any thread sealer or plumbing tape on the sender threads or it won’t work.

I have a little mini console thing with cup holders I got at Walmart that fits nicely between the buckets.

I might have it bookmarked on my desktop, but I'm out of town for a couple days, so I'll have to have a look when I get home. Quite a few years back after the Big Bang episode where Sheldon turns up his nose at a chili with beans in it, I decided to look up what an "authentic" cowboy chili was, and the result was more of a story than an actual recipe, but it was interesting, and I've loosely based my own chili off of that. Basically you're making a meal the cowboys would've eaten while out working, taking a chunk of cow, or whatever meat was available, and mixing in whatever wild herbs and vegetables they could find around them. I've generally stuck to that same principle, and just varied the contents depending on what vegetables are available at whatever grocery store I happened to wander into. It usually gets compliments. Instead of starting with ground beef, dice up a roast, 3/8-1/2" cubes. Go for a cheaper cut, because after what you're about to do it won't matter much, although some people disagree. Now you're going to roll the pieces in a seasoning mix, much like a taco seasoning mix but heavier on the chili. This is where I like to add the bulk of the heat that I'm putting in. I've ground up dried habaneros or ghost peppers for this part, used a heap of cayenne, chipotle chili powder, etc., although if you're serving to a milder audience it's better to stick to normal chili powder, and/or paprika. Add in garlic powder, a little salt, black pepper, oregano, cumin, and a bit of flour or cornmeal. Coat the beef in the spice blend and sear it in a frying pan. Toss it into the slow cooker once it's brown on all sides. Vegetables go in next, diced up. You want roughly the same volume of vegetables as you had meat. You'll want some onion, but peppers will be the bulk of it. And you want chili peppers, bell peppers aren't the best because they're so watery that they cook down to not a lot, although you can add them at the end for some colour and to avoid overcooking them, but even then the smaller sweet peppers are a better option. Poblanos are good for a milder audience, but I'll add jalapeños, serranos, I've even used habaneros for the colour... it can get a bit off if you're only using green peppers. We get these little blister packs of fresh herbs in our grocery stores, I imagine yours have something similar. I'll throw in an entire one of those each of oregano, sage, and mint, stems removed and leaves diced. You need some liquid to go with it. Most recipes tell you to add beef broth or similar, I prefer to use coffee as I find it gives it an excellent smoky taste, darker roast the better. Don't overdo the liquid though as a fair bit of juice cooks out of the onions and peppers, especially if you used bell peppers. Slow cook as long as you think is appropriate, although I usually start it in the morning to eat after work. If you do end up with a product that's a little too soupy, I usually will thicken it with the leftover spices from seasoning the meat, but you can use flour, or other thickeners, just don't go too heavy, or you can just keep cooking it down for a while. I generally eat it over rice, cheese on top, probably some healthy dobbs of sour cream if you overdid it on the heat.

There was a thread about wheel weights, or rather the weights of wheels... but it didn't get too far. I don't know I'd take it quite as gospel truth, given different people measuring with different scales.

How high is that going to end up to allow it to fold down all the way? The top of the MJ seat is a LOT closer to the top of the trans tunnel than it is to the floor in the Uplander.

Do you need a new one? It’s the same cluster as in the XJ, grab one from a similar year range as yours.

Dana-spicer is the way to go for ujoints. I personally prefer greaseable, especially in a wet or dirty environment, because it allows you to purge out any accumulated water or dirt that snuck past the seals. If you plan on continuing to mud race this is probably the way to go, so you can purge out all your pivots after every event, or at least every time out. But if you know you won’t ever bother greasing then, then I guess there’s no real point to the greasables. As far as the non-greaseable ujoints being stronger that’s true enough, but the extra strength only amounts to the strength of a solid piece the same size as the voids in the greaseable ujoint, which is not a lot, and apart from shock loading and cracking the cross, most ujoint failures in my experience are due to lubrication problems. One other consideration for the axle shaft ujoints is the greaseable ones come with low-profile zerks in the centre of one of the caps, which either requires finding the correct adapter for your grease gun, or else replacing it with a conventional zerk you can put a normal grease gun adapter onto and hoping you don’t snap it off if it comes in contact with something off-road. You can also get Dana ball joints, which are probably the best budget-minded option, but there are some very sturdy options out there if budget is less of a concern, I’ve just never used them. I usually recommend Timken wheel bearings where I can, SKF is also usually a reasonable option. But if you’re running wheels with more poke you’ll see shorter bearing lives no matter which brand you’re running. If the wheel bearings don’t have play and you can get them and the shafts out easily enough, I don’t see the point in changing them… if they survived mud racing without play then they’re probably doing alright.

Good quality kit, although personally I would prefer greaseable ujoints. Something to watch for when rebuilding the double cardon, the centring yoke is a needle bearing, much like the ujoint caps, but the pin in the middle the bearings roll on is welded to the driveshaft, and if it’s worn in badly, your new centring yoke won’t last long before it gets the shakes. I don’t know if repair kits for it exist, if a driveshaft or machine shop could correct it, or if it just means you need to find a different driveshaft.

Should be a production tag with a date code on it… somewhere. I think passenger side? but it’s not fresh on my mind.

Changes to the ride height that aren’t perfectly equal front to rear will cause a change in caster angle, including differences in tire pressure or wear front to rear. Remember it’s measured against the ground, not against the truck. If the front and rear axles aren’t aligned with each other, the steering angle needed to keep the truck pointing straight down the road can do things to tire wear as well. Your thrust angle has doubled since 2018, although I don’t know if that’s enough to cause anything, though – it’s still not huge.

The downpipe for a ‘93+ 4.0 ends in a straight piece of 2-1/4” pipe instead of a flange to adapt to the cat. It makes it easier to attach to the system as it can just be clamped in instead of needing to weld flanges. It’s what I did on my ‘91 when I replaced the system, but there’s a fuzzy memory about Renix vs HO concerns regarding O2 sensor port locations?