gogmorgo

Absolutely nothing when you hit the key? Have you tried starting in neutral? Running the shifter back and forth a few times? If that changes anything, this is classic dirty neutral safety switch (nss) behaviour. Bonus points if your reverse lights are also intermittent. If that sounds accurate, pop it off, pull it apart, clean it, coat the copper bits in dielectric grease (or don’t, I’m not your mom) and run a bead of RTV around the gasket before you put it back on. If you really want to test first, see if you’ve got power to the trigger on the starter solenoid or to pin 86 (and ground to 85) of the starter relay socket when you turn the key. You can also test a couple pins on the trans connector (near the trans dipstick) to for sure isolate the issue but I don’t remember which ones. Of course it could also be a tired starter, or any other number of things. To test the starter itself, or just get it started, make damn sure the thing won’t move on you if the engine starts then take a screwdriver you don’t care about and short from the b+ terminal on the starter solenoid (the one the positive battery cable runs to) across to the small terminal on the solenoid (the starter trigger). Will be sparks, but it should engage the starter, and start if the key is on. If that doesn’t engage the starter then strong chances the starter’s shot.

Locking the CAD in permanently just means the front driveshaft will be turning with the front wheels. This does have a very small effect on your MPG. You’ll also notice if there’s play in the front driveshaft u-joints or CV centring ball at highway speeds which might lead to new vibrations unless you were already ocaisionally rolling at highway speeds in 4x4. Which, well, don’t.

Steering knuckles, hubs, and brake parts all got redesigned for the '91 model year.

Did it seem like 4lo and neutral were shifting you into the ranges you selected or no? If yes, it would indicate the shifter and selector inside the transfer case were doing what they were supposed to, strongly pointing towards the CAD. If the shifter doesn’t seem like it’s doing anything, would most likely be a linkage issue.

What do low range and neutral do? If it’s parked with the shifter in 4x4, can you spin the front driveshaft? If no, safe to say the CAD isn’t working. If you can rotate the driveshaft, something’s going on with the transfer case or shift linkage. But my money’s on the CAD. Most likely you’ve got a vacuum leak somewhere. If you want to lock the CAD in permanently it’s quick and easy, but does come at a very slight mpg penalty. Slight enough you probably won’t notice if you’re not religiously keeping track. There’s a couple write-ups on it in here:

They send you one for 5% off to share with friends and family any time you buy something it’s why there’s so many out there all the time.

When I swapped out the damaged roof rack on my ZJ there was some form of thread sealer on the screws. Similar to what goes on head bolts that go into a water jacket. But I didn’t have that tube when I put them back in so I just dobbed some clear silicone on/around the holes before offering up the side rails. It’s been four years and I haven’t had any leaks yet.

Yes… but they’re also only part of the first generation of vehicles that used crumple zones. We’ve learned a ton about crash safety in the last 40 years. NHTSA only gives the XJ three stars for crashworthiness. IIHS calls it Marginal. And I’m pretty sure that was in contrast to the vehicles from its time, not modern vehicles.

Everyone checked on their pinion seals lately?

So it’s been 13 years, and the product is back up as available. https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-MJ-R.html Anyone know if the issues with the receiver tubing have been addressed? It’s a diy kit, so you could probably grab the correct receiver tubing and substitute if you needed. Considering this thread’s been dragged back up to daylight it would be better not to drag anyone’s name through the mud if they’ve corrected the concern a long time ago.

I usually just Google search when I want one. Might take an attempt or two but I’ve never come up empty.

Good call swapping them out anyhow. This bothers me: Nice little rub point there to grind through the main leaf.

Don’t crash and you don’t need the safety features ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Might be he’s got opinions about your driving he doesn’t want to share? JK. Truck was built to be driven. Might as well drive it.

IMO if your windsheild is leaking the only solution is to cut it out and glue it back in. Trying to reseal without pulling it is asking for problems. If the problem is a rust bubble somewhere, resealing it is just going to trap the moisture in and an issue that could have been a grind and prime now needs welding. I’d also suggest finding someone who uses a cutting string tool to remove the windsheild, rather than some form of steel blade. It significantly reduces the chance of breaking a windsheild and takes a ton less time, meaning it’ll cost you less for a better job. I’d also suggest checking the a/c drain tube to make sure it’s not clogged. It’s a little black rubber tube coming out of the bottom of the passenger side firewall, near to the starter. Poke a screwdriver into it.

I’m definitely not concerned about my safety driving an MJ around. Out on the highway with 18 wheelers around, my itty bitty little Lada Samara definitely makes me aware of my own mortality, but I’m not terrified of getting squished, either. Don’t crash and you don’t need to know how safe your car is. The only cars I’ve felt genuinely unsafe driving are the ones that will make me think they’ll fall apart on me. Or riding passenger in a car where the driver doesn’t seem to be able to keep the thing moving in the direction it’s supposed to be going. I wouldn’t want to crash in even the newest, safest car out there either. Sure you’ll probably be fine, but you never know.

Flip the switch to power when you’re towing. It doesn’t take much additional load for it to bump down to 3rd on its own. The only real concern is if it’s shifting back and forth a bunch, like if you’re climbing rolling hills. Better to just have it stay in 3rd than constant shifting. It’s that little bit of slip when changing gears under load that will be the biggest concern.

You definitely see the brake lights under the tailgate. Trouble is it’s not part of the standard lighting configuration. I’ve definitely caught myself staring at it going “WTF is that?” for longer than I care to admit before realizing what was going on. You also see them wired into just one side of the trailer stop/turn circuits, which means they just start flashing if you hit the turn signal that direction. Distracts quite a bit from the proper turn signal. Ditto with the ones that pop into a trailer hitch. Standardized lighting systems exist for a reason.

The few times I’ve seen it used online it looks like they’re pretty much just mixing in a small jar and either pouring or spooning it on. I’ve used graphiti removers that came in squirt bottles that smell and act like they’re at least 80% acetone, so there’s got to be some out there that’ll hold up. But yes, you’d need to pick your plastics wisely or you’ll just end up holding a puddle.

I mean it’s better than some of the junk I own. Two of them got rated zero stars on thr Russian system in the ‘90’s, which says a lot.

Steering column is collapsible and *shouldn’t* spear you. In theory. I suspect grandparents are more likely not to want to sell something meaningful to a younger driver. My rule’s always been don’t crash, and you won’t need to experience the crash safety systems. Doesn’t always work out for everyone I guess, but just be aware of what everyone else appears to be doing, and try to be predictable in your driving.

Yeah… it’s a 3000lb truck in a world where newer equivalently sized vehicles are 4000. We’ve seen enough crashed to know they crumple like pop cans. Put it on its lid and it’ll crush the roof down on you. And that’s before considering many of us don’t still have the full weight of steel they had from the factory still hanging around. It’s the trade off of driving classics. Modern cars are better in so many ways… doesn’t make me want to go buy one though.

I’ve got the Mini-Ductor Venom. Didn’t really shop around or read reviews at all, it just happened to be on sale at Napa at the same time that I got very upset at something. It’s not a small amount of coin to thrown down but I don’t regret the purchase at all, even if I’d only used it for that one job, it was indispensable. You don’t need to get most things glowing red hot, but you can if you want to, and the heat is way more precise than you can get with an oxyacetylene torch. Not to mention you aren’t pointing a big hot flame into the bottom of a box full of flammable things every time you get it out. No gas bottles to lug around or run out either. You don’t even really need to see what you’re doing particularly well, just get the coil over the bolt and pull the trigger, not like a torch where it really matters where you point it. I remember seeing the infomercials for similar products a while back. Can’t say I’ve ever seen it on a shelf to try. Just a can full of liquid propellant that pulls away heat as it boils? Like the home wart freezing kits?

Seems like every test I see online comes up with different results. But in my personal and professional experience, the best thing for it is heat. Liquid wrench and Seafoam deep creep seem to work reasonably well. I’ve also been impressed by Mopar’s penetrating oil, we stocked it at a previous workplace. I’ve had decent results with Kroil, but it’s not the easiest to come by. WD40 and PB don’t seem to do as well. But it’s tough to say because it’s not like you spray one thing on and it doesn’t work, then you spray something else overtop and it immediately works, usually it does or it doesn’t, no matter what you’re using. Heat on the other hand changes the size of the thing you’re dealing with. It doesn’t take much heat either, you don’t typically need to get it red hot. My inductive heater is hands down the best rusty fastener removal tool I’ve ever used. Acetone is a pretty thin liquid, and a potent solvent. I can imagine it would creep down into most tiny voids and carry some oils from your mix along with it for lubricity. But I’ve never tried it.

Likely had tires on it but discovered they wouldn’t give him any more money for them on trade so he kept them.