gogmorgo

Check your fuel pressure. You should be able to rent a gauge (for free with a deposit) from most parts stores. Or just buy one. It should come with the right fitting to screw onto the schrader valve (like a big tire valve) on the fuel rail. One common issue is the fuel pump ballast resistor goes bad. It's a little whitish ceramic deal on the driver's side fender. Looks like this: You can take the two wires going to it, and somehow connect them together. See if it improves things. All the ballast resistor does is reduce voltage to the fuel pump to slow it down, so it doesn't make so much noise. Not a big deal not having it in the circuit. Also, the fuel pump itself grounds behind the driver's side tail light, and this ground is notorious for going bad, so it's worth checking to make sure it's clean. Something else to do, slowly work through as many of Cruiser's Renix Tips as you can. Tips 1 and 2 might even solve your issues.

I'd check for an angle between the two axle tubes. As was said, get the whole rear axle off the ground (with wheels still mounted) and let the truck idle in gear. Watch for any wobbles. On a side note, cinder blocks are intended to support load in the other direction. When loaded sideways the way you've got it, they tend to crush. They're also intended for very even loading along the top surface. Point loads like you get from setting a vehicle on them tend to make them crumble, even when oriented properly. Either way, they're not so great for supporting vehicles. Get yourself a nice set of jack stands.

It was an always an option that could be ticked, although I think power windows may also have been part of the Laredo package – just as they were with the XLS.

More than likely, yes. I don't see much chrome, either.

Yeah, those TDI's don't use much gas at all. :teehee: Sorry... someone had to say it. I'm kinda in the same boat... Love my MJ but hate how much fuel it drinks. Hope you can find something decent to meet your needs.

In '86, there were three trim levels, "custom" (base), "X" and "XLS". X was moderately up equipped, and XLS was high end. Respectively what became the Pioneer and Laredo in '87, if I'm not mistaken. While the 2.8 was the "better" engine option at the time :doh: , the X and XLS had badges on the fender and extra chrome.

The interior door panels? There's a bit of a track they clip into at the top. Window winders just pull straight off. You can kinda twist the door handle assembly a bit to get it through the hole in the panel, but I'm pretty sure you need to unscrew it first. Can't remember, but you may need to remove the armrests before you can get the panels off as well... they might screw into the door, not the panel, but that should be obvious. It's a pretty quick and easy job. If you're going to have the doors standing open for an extended period of time, you may want to jam something in the switch to shut off the interior lights, pull the dome light fuse, or disconnect the battery so you don't drain it.

From what I've gathered, (and by that I mean don't quote me on this as Bible truth, it's what I've inferred from scattered bits of info I've come across accidentally) the only reason there were MJ's built at all in 1992 is because there were orders to fill and parts left over. As such, very few of them were built. I've seen estimates, not sure where the came from, of around 1000 units total. How many of them were Eliminators? Couldn't really say. A stroll through the 1992 registry shows 25% of entries are Eliminators, but since there are only 28 registered, that doesn't necessarily mean too much. But there's another way to think about it. A Comanche is uncommon, although not particularly rare. Eliminators are not common among MJ's. 1992's are rare among MJ's. 1992 Eliminators are quite rare among MJ's, and very rare among the general automobile population. How rare is that? Well, it's probably safe to assume that there are more Ferrari Enzo's out there. Is it collectible? Yes, if you're a Jeep enthusiast. Does its collectibility make it worth more to a buyer than any other MJ? Only a little, and even then it would mostly be in how far someone's willing to travel to go get it. It's mostly an appearance package by 1992.

I think this was brought up a short while ago. These guys extend the front clip to make it all fit.

J'ai pris une ptite promende envers le link dans ta signature et pis j'ai découvert que tè québecois. Je suis un tête-carré moi, adopté par une village de franco-manitobains :thumbsup: Les lumières dans la grille, sont-ils alors connectés aux clignotants de détresse? Quand j'avais acheté mon MJ, quelqu'un avait installé deux gros lumières oranges et rondes au bumper (tel qu'une véhicule pilote pour les très grands camions), et les avait connectés de la même manière. Sauf qu'ils n'ont jamais fonctionés car celui qui l'a fait a juste twisté les fils dans un noeud et les a laissé à corroder. Je les ai enlèvés pis j'ai mis des phares antibrouillard en place. J'étais pour dire qqch au sujet des marche-pieds... je les trouve pas mal laids moi aussi. Ton bumper en arrière est pour un Cherokee, non pas un Comanche, si tu ne le savais pas, mais ça a laire d'une bonne installation. Quelques membres icite ont fait la même chose car les propres bumpers arrières sont assez difficiles à trouver en bonne condition. Un autre pti question, les lettres JEEP sur le tailgate, sont-ils chromés? Si oui, c hors la norme et pas mal cool.

Looks like a really nice truck for $300! What's going on in the grill if you don't mind me asking? Some kind of extra warning lights? And welcome to the madness!!

Make sure the trackbar bracket to frame bolts are as tight as possible. And by that I mean go to town with an impact if you can get one in there. If you search, redwolf had a huge thread about this, called "loud pop" or something like that.

It's pinned at the top of this sub-forum, but here's the link anyway. Lots of stuff available. Edit: can't get the link to work on my phone. But what the guy below me said. Thread's called "comanche club swag"

I don't bother... that's what 4x4 is for. :yes:

When my headlight switch went a couple months ago, it still retained complete functionality. It just started tickling the underside of the dash with incandescent gasses. Upgrading the headlight harness is more than just a good idea. I personally don't think the headlight switch is your issue. There's only one wire leaving it that carries power to the headlights, so in theory if they come on at all then there's nothing wrong with it. I'd expect your issue to more likely be the dimmer switch, where the power is split between the low/high beams, or possibly with the indicator stalk or its linkages in the steering column. That said, another member not too long ago somehow managed to correct a similar issue (he had no low-beams, but iirc his high beams still worked normally) by replacing the headlight switch.

New headliners are available from SMS. The dent doesn't look all too bad. There's no obvious creasing or tearing. The metal may be stretched a little though, so it might be a case of getting it as close as possible and then body filler. I'm no body man, but I would assume that to be repairable. The rear "frame" that the XJ steps mount to isn't the same on the XJ as it is on the MJ. As I understand, the MJ is wider at the back. You could probably get them to work, but you could also build your own set. A couple guys on here (one quite recently) combined some rock sliders with tube steps, and they came out looking pretty good. Where to start on your MJ? Not a bad place.

Yeah, but that one only looks like an MJ any more...

I honestly don't really know what coolant in the lines could do to the tranny, but having caught it sooner rather than later I'd imagine you'd be okay. But I'm far from an expert. I'd also be concerned about air getting in. I'm confused as to why you'd need to take the flexplate off to replace your torque converter. Having just recently replaced my own flexplate, I'm not sure how you'd even be able to remove the flexplate without first unbolting the torque converter from it. The first thing you do when pulling the transmission (as you should know from your Cherokee) is unbolting the flexplate and torque converter. Then you can unbolt the tranny &c and move it back out of the way. The torque converter stays with the tranny, and the flexplate is still bolted to the crankshaft. I'm not sure how you'd even be able to get at the bolts that hold the flexplate onto the crank seeing as they'd be under the torque converter if it was still there... It would be a bit like trying to get your brake rotors off without first taking off the wheel... :???: My tranny was still hanging on by about three threads on one of the upper bolts, and the tranny mount. Also, one of my motor mounts was destroyed (completely) and the other was on it's way out.... and yet the truck still drove me 70 miles at 80mph several hours before I discovered I had a fairly major issue... 80 mph with the engine and tranny just kinda, well, sitting there... I'd just driven into a city because I'd diagnosed the issues the truck had running as an intermittent fuel pump and was about to pick up a new one.

It would depend more on your original tire size, although probably we can get that from your gear ratio/tranny combo. I personally didn't notice any appreciable difference in my speedometer's inaccuracy when I switched from the 225/75R15's that were on mine (as per the tire info sticker) to 235/75's, but then that's not much difference in diameter... about a half inch. Works out to about a 2% increase in circumference and therefore wheel speed (You'll be doing 61.2 when your speedo reads 60) but in all honesty that's within typical calibration error in a new car, so meh. I may be wrong on this, but I believe the smallest tire that was fitted to the Comanche was the 205/75/15. Going to a 235/75 from that size would be about a 10% increase in wheel speed, which starts to become significant. You'll be going 66 when your speedo says 60. However, these are based on nominal tire sizes. Actual tire dimensions will change depending on the construction of the tire, pressure, load, wear, etc., so YMMV. If you really want to know how inaccurate your speedometer will be, you'll pretty well need to change the tires and then find some better calibrated way to measure your speed, like a GPS or radar unit.

I was happy it warmed up to 10ºF today so I could pull my starter off... was going to do it anyway at some point this weekend even with -60ºF windchill but I didn't have time. Don't know what y'all are complaining about.

:agree: Most manufacturers of soft-road vehicles in the last decade or so don't care that all the wheels aren't necessarily on the ground. The extra weight on the other wheels makes up for the complete lack of traction at that one wheel, just as much as the weight of a wheel and half an axle would do at that wheel, which really is all that the extra droop can give you. As long as you can keep the wheels still on the ground turning, of course.

As long as you didn't completely cook the engine, (sounds like it still runs) the rad failing shouldn't have done too much... unless it failed in a way that got coolant in the tranny lines. When you take the tranny off and have good access, check your flexplate really close for cracks, just in case. No sense doing the work only to have to redo it. I recently replaced mine. Through the inspection plate, initially all I saw to tell me that it was bad was a hairline crack really close to the crankshaft flange that I honestly wasn't sure was actually a crack. Six months later, when I finally replaced it, the truck still started great, ran (like $#!& due to the cps timing windows being +/- 10 degrees) and drove, but it was cracked all the way around into two separate pieces. After everything's back together, I'm thinking the cracked flexplate (and the engine-tranny separation that cracked it) may have also trashed my torque converter, as I have a slight grinding noise when I'm holding it in gear on the brakes, but only then. That'll have to be a spring project for me, though.

If you're copying and pasting between tabs (or windows) in IE, you might not have the text box activated. Try typing a bit of text and the ctrl+v. Also, why are you using Internet Exploder? There are so many other browsers out there that are better in that they actually work. Chrome and Firefox are probably the leaders. I use Opera because I'm weird like that.

Due to road salt, mine are slowly removing themselves... they aren't tin. Hasn't been an issue yet. Wouldn't leaving the shield on lead to better heat retention? What with less air flow and all?

It's in most of the shots from about 1:00 to 1:25, just far away along the shore, often in the edge of the frame. It's dark blue if it helps. It's also in some closer shots around 1:45. It's only there by accident, though. It's parked in more or less the same spot in all the shots. Also, the guy was jigging in an old frozen up hole, so it was only a couple inches deep... about six or seven feet short if he wanted to find liquid water. His frying pan never did get filled. :dunno: