gogmorgo

The wheel sits on something, don't it? A hub-centric spacer sits on that thing, and then has another one built in for the wheel to sit on.

87.4¢/L, US$2.84/gal. Compare and contrast to what I was paying in the summer...

I drove my 300,000 mile MJ on similar length round trips without issues. But yeah, beyond small tool kit (including basic recovery gear), just some extra warmth and maybe some extra food/drinking water as well. In all honesty nothing more than I normally drive around with.

I paid 87.4¢/L today... After exchange rates, that works out to US$2.842/gallon. :banana:

I don't think the NSS would be causing your shifting issues. Before I cleaned it in my '91 (It was BAAAD... no reverse lights or starting in any gear without shorting the solenoid most of the time) I didn't have any shifting issues whatsoever. Also, if you look at the wiring diagrams for an '88, as found here, courtesy of Blue88Comanche, there are TCU inputs for Drive and 1-2, but not for third... my guess would be that has more to do with torque converter lockup or shift points than anything else. But by all means go ahead and clean up the NSS, it's easy and won't hurt anything. Here's an excellent write-up. I ran a bead of RTV around the gasket before putting everything back together to try to help seal it a bit better.

Yeah, that's what the bumper I pulled off the '92 looked like underneath, minus the bent brackets. The gussets on my '91's are welded between about the middle of the bracket and the corners of the bumper. I still haven't been able to mount the '92's bumper as I can't quite get in there with a hacksaw to cut the gussets off the brackets, and that was all I had at the time... haven't been home since early October. I don't want to unbolt the brackets from the frame as it took me a half hour to get everything lined back up properly the last time I did that. It's cool looking underneath a short bed. The long bed's spring shackles are mounted further forward, and so is the spare tire — no need for that accommodation in the rear valence. It also explains the odd bulge in the bumper brackets below the bolts that hold it to the frame, the LWB's brackets don't need to clear the shackle mount, but they use the same brackets.

When I was 15 or so, school was cancelled one day because it was -45°C / -50°F. (Not safe for people walking to school or if something happens to a school bus) It also happened to be garbage day. Pickup was around 10am, but our small town at the time had an issue with feral cats, so we couldn't leave the garbage outside, and it usually fell to my mother to take it out. Except I was home that day. I looked outside, and it was nice and sunny and beautiful outside. Perfect, I didn't need a jacket. It's always the coldest on the clearest, stillest nights, which are aways followed by bright, clear, sunny, and frigid days. I looked down at my boots, but they were a little small and an ordeal to put on, so since I was only going to be outside for a few seconds, I just pulled off my socks. We'd got a couple inches a few days earlier, so our path and sidewalk were covered in packed snow that hadn't yet turned to ice. When I got back in, I looked back out, and there were a dozen or so footprints before they faded out... my feet had gotten so cold they stopped melting the snow and leaving prints. It was about ten minutes before I could feel them again, which was when they started burning. The angry pins-and-needles feeling lasted for what felt like a couple hours. Since then, I've never gone outside barefoot below +10°C / +50°F. I've been outside in my gotch at -40 since then, (because whiskey) but I was very definitely wearing some warm boots.

It's 20°F here and I just spent a good 20 minutes outside in a tshirt fixing my roommate's christmas lights. It hit a ridiculous 40°F for a couple days last week and I was out enjoying the warm weather in shorts and a tshirt as well. I can't wait for it to get properly cold. Enough of this stupid freeze-thaw make everything wet and mushy stuff.

If you do get spacers, make sure they're hub-centric and of good quality. Lug-centric ones will break your wheel studs.

Might have been that cheap at Costco up here as well, but I'd rather not have to include injector cleaner in my cost/mile calculations. Just saying.

I paid 92.9¢/L last week, after a 5¢/L discount. First time I've seen gas under a dollar/litre in a looooong time, and first time I've ever paid less than a dollar/litre for gas in my own vehicle. That's CAD$3.51 per US gallon. Not bad at all, given I usually end up using $5/gallon for trip cost estimates.

It doesn't look all that perfect to me. The angles on the bends are right, but the reinforcement is much sharper than the more gentle curves of the original bumper. Anyone with a decent brake could have made those bends. Or frankly even a torch and something to clamp it in.

My '91 was originally sold in Portage La Prairie, MB, and I'm reasonably confident it has the original bumper. It also has very similar bracing, although it was very obviously done by someone with no formal training and likely a dollar-store brand stick welder... it's not as bad as the welding on my Lada's exhaust that looked like someone tried to use a car battery, but it's still pretty bad even compared to my own inexperienced welding attempts. The gussets from the bumper brackets to the corners of the bumper aren't as tall as yours are, but they're there. Despite being flat stock, they aren't all that close to vertical, although it looks like that was the intent. There's nothing beyond the gussets, though, whereas yours has the bumper brackets reinforced with what looks like angle iron. The bumper and hitch area on mine was reinforced below with a piece of 1/8" thick 1" x 1" angle iron at the back edge. My guess is it was done for reinforcement after the factory bumper rusted through (and/or became misshapen in a minor collision) to permit limited use of the ball, but given it was scrap-onto-rust welding, the welds broke the first time I tried using the ball. I can't imagine it was ever used for much actual towing, as there's no evidence a trailer harness was ever wired in. The bumper I pulled off the '92 at Wesman Salvage did not have any kind of bracing, just the brackets. It's possible yours were both done to permit heavier towing due to difficulty in sourcing a oem-style hitch, although the fact that they were both done in a nearly identical fashion is surprising to say the least. Mine looks like a feeble attempt to replicate what yours is like, which almost surprises me more.

Winter? If it's driving through the cold, I think December forgot how to December out here. I was out in shorts and a t-shirt yesterday. And yeah, those running boards have probably ruined the rockers and the floor as well. But for $750?

Oh, so it is, guess I didn't look very closely. It didn't occur to me that the two wouldn't be connected... I saw a similar decal package on an MJ in Quebec, a "most options ticket" model in decent shape that they were asking something like $10,000 for.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/strathcona-county/1991-jeep-other-commanche-pickup-truck/1019366380 I saw this back in September and was going to share it then, but I couldn't find it. Then I just rediscovered it going through all my old Google alerts. Any idea what kind of roof it is?

Correct. There is nothing going to the switch. The supplemental harness plugs into one of the factory headlight sockets (which I guess is going to the switch...) and uses the complete factory headlight wiring to trigger the relays. Basically, where the bulb(s) used to be in the factory circuit, there are now relays. Beyond unplugging the headlight bulbs from their sockets and plugging some trigger wires into one side, you do not need to modify the factory wiring at all.

If you tell them it leaks, they should replace it. Their tools should work properly, or there's no point in them loaning them out...

The light switch is controlled by the vacuum crap at the CAD end of things. Could be a bad switch, or you could have hooked up the vacuum lines wrong or something. The other thing that comes to mind is that the part time light on my MJ would stick on for a bit after I put it back in 2WD. I figured the little bit of drivetrain binding held it in 4x4 for a bit. If I let it coast the 4x4 would disengage and the light would go out. Same as when I was parked when I went from 4x4 to 2WD, I'd have to roll a short distance before it disengaged. I could even shut the engine off in 4x4, shift to 2WD, walk away for a couple days, and the Part Time light would sometimes come back on when I started the MJ and it stayed on until I started moving.

I wouldn't worry too much about that line. If your CAD still works, you're good. If it doesn't still work, lock it permanently. As xymj says, the vacuum crap on the t-case is just to engage the CAD. If your CAD is locked permanently, you have no need for the vacuum... although the 4x4 light will quit working without the vacuum hooked up.

I would suggest contacting the manufacturer to see if they'll send a replacement. Considering they rate it for 100W, it should support your bulbs. I also doubt this is a ground issue. Usually electricity is pretty good at telling you the weak point, because that's what melts/fries. Sure, if something else is wrong it can lead to extra load on the weakest link, but I think a poor connection in the relay socket is likely to have caused this. I don't know what gauge wire this harness uses, but if everything was up to spec, you should be able to pull 30 amps through 14awg. Going by the pictures on Amazon it looks like it might be 12awg, but I'm pretty sure it's at least 14awg. Heck. looking at the table I pulled the 14awg from, a 20awg wire should be able to take the load of a single 100W bulb at 12.5V... it's only drawing 8amps. But I wouldn't attempt that because safety factors and everything... But yeah, I think there was something wrong with your harness.

A fuel pressure gauge should not leak, and the leak could potentially affect the reading. The relief valve is for releasing pressure and fuel in a controlled manner, so fuel doesn't spray everywhere when you disconnect the gauge. If you do have a vacuum leak, it can lead to running rich, which can cause rough idle, backfiring, etc. Messing around with any vacuum components could have created a new leak.

I pulled my dolly with my dad's Envoy. They would have let me do it on a trailer as well, but there weren't any in my area.

That's what I did, but I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped the load terminals.

$400/year? You don't know what you've got. I'd be paying four times that if both my vehicles were registered... And I'm on the cheaper end of the deal up here...