gogmorgo

Did the carb'ed 2.8 even have an O2 sensor? If so what would it be for? Unless those are the manifolds off a later FI 2.8... I'd also suspect it has something to do with EGR, but I have very little knowledge of the 2.8.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ Comancheclub.com doesn't host pictures, so you need to link them in from an outside host. Imgur, flickr, photobucket, even facebook are all common hosts people use. Also worth a read... http://comancheclub.com/topic/38265-how-to-make-your-posts-look-awesome-pics-links-videos-etc/ Using the diagrams from the factory service manuals, you should be able to get a factory part number for the things you need. You likely haven't received any responses yet because no one's quite sure what parts you're referring to. But as far as wiper parts go, you should be able to walk into any parts store and get them. They're identical to Cherokee wipers. In fact, just about every single part from the doors forward is shared with a four-door XJ.

Aircraft Spruce and Online Metals, although I've never been part of an order for Jeep things, i.e. anything bigger than 3/4" OD x 0.035" wall thickness. But both are good sources of 4130 tube. Aircraft Spruce is also a good place for getting carbon fiber materials, and Online Metals sells just about everything. If you've got a local steel recycling yard, you may be able to get decent scrap pieces from them.

I've got a google alert on Kijiji searches for a few Comanche spelling variations. Mostly I get results for guitars, skis, bikes, and boats, but also the odd airplane and the occasional Jeep.

But... but... the 2.8 is a GM engine. You can't put a Ford carb on it. SACRILEGE!

That's a really cool book (and I'm such a nerd).

I personally have to laugh at YXMJ correcting someone else's spelling. I pointed out one of his errors once and got ridiculed in his signature for a while for it. :rotf: MJ86. hope you can figure out what you need to know for your project. Putting a motor where it wasn't "supposed" to be isn't always an easy task, but it will be rewarding when you finish up having done it all yourself. I'd offer you luck, but if you need luck, then you haven't done enough research first! Go break a torque wrench. ;)

Every now and again after my Dad replaced his dieing manual Novarolla with a w-body Impala, he'd take his foot off the brake when moving away from a stop sign and slam the column shifter into park. I went a couple year or so just about only driving my MJ... even though I grew up with column shifters, they just feel weird after the floor shift, and I'm constantly forgetting what to do with them, can't get used to them again. People ask why I need more than one vehicle... well there ya go. It ain't healthy driving the same one all the time!

I also had the luxury of my MJ coming equipped with the full gauge set. My buddy's XJ didn't. The first time I drove it I had a bit of a WTFHDYS moment. Conker, I doubt the lights would work that way. It's possible the lights would just stay on and get brighter or dimmer with proper senders behind dummy lights, but it's unlikely the difference would be noticeable, or noticeable enough to be useful. I don't know if the gauges run off the same voltage range as the lights might. Incidentally, if you get your coolant hot enough, at least on an HO, it will throw a CEL because the sensor eventually goes out of the expected range and the computer thinks it's malfunctioning... but if you were actually running with coolant, you likely would have noticed the clouds of steam and ethylene glycol mist all over the everything before it got to that point.

:???: Yes, the Comanche 4x4 is definitely better than the Cherokee 4x4, except where where it's identical... and beyond the length of the rear driveshaft and the location of the rear spring perches, that would be everything. Okay, yeah the Dana 30 front axle is probably a low-pinion vs the high-pinion in the MJ, and it's likely you've got a 242 transfercase vs the MJ's 231 (Maybe... did we figure out which one you have?), but that just gives you an awd option for sealed surface use. And I suppose the XJ's difference in weight and the distribution thereof, and also the difference in wheelbase would come into play, as would the differences in power between the two (low power means less likely to break traction) but there's very little difference between the two systems.

Well, I won't stop you from doing it, if you want gauges that will stick out like sore thumbs cause they don't match anything else. Sorry... I'm a little anal retentive about things like that. If you want to do it, go for it. Just be aware that factory parts exist to do what you want to do, and they'll be much easier to get working, provided you get the right ones. Personally I like cramming as much useful info into the dash as possible, so I don't have to check a whole bunch of different spots at once. Geez... I sound like a grumpy old man. :roll: :yes:

I grew up driving automatics and only recently started driving a manual with regularity. I pretty well had to re-teach myself. My dad had an old econobox Novarolla that I learned in when I was a teenager, but it died before I ever really got good at it. Beyond that car, the only other clutches I'd driven with were my FSAE team's racecars, but they were sequential transmissions, and getting going really only involved dumping the clutch at a specific rpm so not particularly relevant to daily driving. Being able to select my gear was definitely a plus, and I was having issues with my AW4 at one point so I had my tranny computer unplugged and was shifting manually, which lead to me wanting a manual. It's a whole ton of fun on open twisty roads, even on highway cruises. Nailing a gear change is a oddly wonderful sensation. That said, as just about everyone else will tell you, a manual transmission sucks serious donkey balls in stop and go traffic. Any driving slowly, really, like parking, drive-throughs, etc. My Lada's transfercase fortunately allows me to use low range without locking the centre diff, which makes it a bit easier as I don't need to worry so much about stalling. What it doesn't help is when I'm finally able to go home after a 13.5 hour shift, and it's 1:30 am and all I want to do is go home and sleep... the extra thought process is just annoying. Those two circumstances... slow and exhausted driving, are definitely preferable with a slush box. The annoyingness of regularly driving a manual and then ending up behind the wheel of an automatic every once in a while is that sometimes I'll catch myself pulling up to a stop sign and pushing in the clutch... except there is no clutch, and the pedal I just mashed into the floor with my left foot is the brake. :doh: I'm doing it less often, now, but the first couple times... yeah.

As an aside, when you extend the O2 sensor's harness, don't just cut and splice the wires. Pick up a proper 02 sensor extension harness. The O2 sensor needs to read atmospheric O2 levels so it can compare the two, and it gets to atmo through the insulation in the wires. If you cut and splice, you'll block off this access. Can't really help with your fuel pump issue, though.

Yup, it's in the fuse panel. If memory serves, it's got a clip on it and doesn't just pull out. It was a while ago, but yeah, it was a chore. It was pretty easy to find, though... It's the thing in the footwell that makes that awfull racket!

The factory gauges may not be perfectly calibrated, but they're analogue gauges and will still indicate even small changes. On a really cold day I could watch my thermostat opening and closing with the factory coolant temperature gauge.

A closed cooling system is one where everything is completely sealed. In the Jeep setup, the main coolant "reservoir" is a bottle that permits some expansion of the coolant. The advantages are that the coolant is less likely to get contaminated from outside sources, and that the boiling point of the fluid is higher (due to the greater pressures) so overheating and cavitation are less likely. Also, in the Jeep, there's constant flow of coolant through the expansion bottle, which leads to less crud building up, and added fluids get mixed in much more quickly. The disadvantages are that if you develop a leak, the greater pressure will make it become worse more quickly, and that the greater pressure will add heat to the cooling system. An open system is not under much pressure. The main coolant reservoir is an "overflow" bottle... When the heat expands the coolant, it pushes out into the bottle, and any pressure is vented through the overflow tank. The lack of pressure means that cooling is more effective and leaks are less likely to develop. Heating to the point of cavitation is less likely. Because coolant travels back and forth from the overflow tank in small quantities and the overflow tank's vent is usually mostly just a hole, contamination can happen. The minimal coolant flow through the tank can also lead to crud building up in it, which could plug the overflow, which causes problems. Also, anything you add to the overflow tank may take some time to mix in. You can add it directly to the radiator, but in a full system, popping the rad cap will likely spill some coolant. Jeep went from closed to open cooling in the XJ/MJ in '91, along with the rest of Chrysler's engine control changes that we call the HO. If you do deep water crossing or travel through extremely dusty areas (worse than just dirt roads) then a closed system may be better to keep out contaminants and/or keep your coolant from polluting the watershed. In all other cases, though, the better cooling ability of an open system will be better for you. If you'll be buying new cooling parts, I'd definitely recommend going the open route. If you've got a complete donor with a closed system sitting there, there's not all that much reason for you not to use it, just bear in mind I've seen lots of people convert their closed systems to open, but I've never seen anyone go the other route. In order for your '93 AW4 to play nice, you'll need the transmission wiring harness and computer that came with it. If you've got them from the '87, it won't work properly. In the mean time, though, leaving the trans fuse out or the tranny computer unplugged will allow manual shifting, but will disallow second gear.

So were you looking at getting some CNC machined or something? I'm just curious as to where this is going. Yes, a regular (uncompressed) digital image is made up of square pixels. More or less the file looks like a grid with a "paint by numbers" thing happening... each individual pixel is a square in the grid, with the code for the colour of the square. Going to seriously high definition can make things look round, or angled, but torn down to bits everything is in squares and right angles. In contrast, a vector image file isn't so much a picture as it is an instruction set for drawing the picture. Kind of a "start at this coordinate, draw a line so long at such an angle"... a bunch of vectors. The advantage being that since you're always re-rendering the image, it's infinitely scalable and will always look sharp, whereas a regular digital image will eventually start looking pixelated when zoomed in, and loses definition when zoomed out. It also sometimes allows a much smaller uncompressed file because you don't need a string of data for every single pixel. I've seen a couple programs like Stacks describes in use, but have never used them myself. I have converted CAD models to machine code for CNC laser cutting, though, which is a very similar process I'm guessing. The reason I'm not personally on the market for the end product is that I still have my MJ's badges in decent condition. I still think this is something that should be available to others if they want it (that and more NEW replacement parts is ALWAYS a good thing), which is why I offered to help.

The headlight harness DIY I link to whenever the topic comes up uses this bolt for exactly that purpose. So yes. It's fed directly from the battery. It's not a bad idea to throw a fuse in there somewhere, though.

Are you looking at making actual 3d badges, or just stickers? I don't know about vector drawings, but I might be able to help out with CAD drawings to a set of dimensions. I wouldn't be in the market for the end product, though.

Apparently the late build '86s don't require the firewall "modifications".

I think I've seen a couple people replacing their towing mirrors with ones off a Bronco or other older truck. As said, courtesy lights are a common problem. You might be able to clean them up a bit and get them working (and if you want them to work with the doors and get them working with the doors, don't EVER touch them again!). Here's a potentially useful thread I found while trying to find the exact name of the ebay lights... I gave up on that, though. If it's just that they don't come on when the doors are open, the door switch itself might be a problem. Alternator light could simply be corroded connections. It's a pretty common issue on just about any vehicle. What do your battery cables look like? 4x4 light again could be wiring stuff, or possibly a vacuum problem with the CAD. (See below) 96 and down 4-door XJ doors will be identical to your doors. The rear axle options in '86, as was stated, are the Dana 35 and AMC 20. The Dana 35 has a kind of oval shaped diff cover, but the AMC 20's cover is perfectly circular. There's a chance though that something else may have been swapped in. As for your front axle, the only option was a Dana 30. There are a couple different Dana 30s, though, the difference being a central axle disconnect (CAD) in the passenger side axle shaft. The CAD engages and disengages the two pieces of the axle, in a bid to save fuel by reducing rotating mass... it's not a noticeable difference. The CAD is vacuum controlled, and problematic, and if it fails you'll loose your 4x4. Most people end up permanently engaging it. Not all MJ's came with a CAD, but it's more often the rule than the exception. 86 was a bit of a weird year, though. Posting pictures to the site requires a third-party host. See here and here. Both threads are pinned in the "Testing" forum. A word on searching the site; the search feature does work, but can be a bit frustrating sometimes. If you do a perfectly normal google search, but include the search term site:comancheclub.com , it'll only pull up results from this website. Welcome to the madness. I'm a relatively new member (relative to some... I have been here a few years) but this site is a HUGE wealth of info. If these guys can't figure out your problems, then they might only exist in your head!

There's a thread pinned in the "testing" forum that details how to post pictures. Comancheclub doesn't host pictures, so you'll need to find a website that does and then link to them.

My valve was bypassed when I got my MJ, so while I can't comment on before/after, I can tell you that if I don't run the fan at all, I start smelling that warm plastic smell after a while. Otherwise I have no "warm cab" issues... But then I do have a/c...

It sucks having what should be a perfectly running MJ but isn't because of a stupid blunder. At least for me it was mostly my fault... Can't imagine how I'd feel if someone else was to blame. Hope you get yours going in less time than mine's been sitting.

The Renix and HO CPS are more different than just the connectors. The Renix also won't read off the HO flexplate, and vice versa. If you've got the engine controls and flexplate from a '91, then you'll need the CPS from a '91. Sucks you went to all that work, though :(