gogmorgo

I'm going to say no. There were some aftermarket bed liners that you can still find, at wrecking yards, etc., but just a rubber mat? Doubtful.

There's a product we "sell" at work in with the other snake oils that guarantees you'll pass emissions tests. I think it's a fuel additive. I use the word "sell" loosely, because there's no emissions testing in this province, or the provinces on either side... so it just sits on the shelf. But I've always wondered what it did or if it worked.

Did you pull the starter? One bolt goes into the engine block and the other one goes into the bellhousing. If you did pull the starter, it would leave roughly a three-inch round hole in the shields. IIRC the shield has two pieces, the inspection cover is the lower one and is easy to take off, the upper one is a bit more of a chore to wiggle out. I don't think you actually need to take the upper one out, but make sure it's back in before you put everything back together.

My block heater is on the driver's side of the block, if memory serves, it was a little forwards of the middle of the block, but my memory is foggy. It's replacing a freeze plug, and will have three prongs sticking out of it. Given that you're in Texas, it's probably safe to say you don't need the block heater. I'd just leave the cord unplugged. I always pull mine off for the summer; it keeps the engine bay a bit tidier. Also, I can't see your pics...

I thought I'd already posted this, but I guess my phone failed, so I'll post it again. A couple years back, I rolled my '91 lwb 4.0 aw4 4x4 across a scale, and IIRC I had 1100kg on the front axle and 700kg on the rear. Including myself, I probably had 300 to 350 lbs in the cab, and then maybe another 100 lbs in the bed, up against the back of the cab. Likely around a half-tank of fuel. I'm a little foggy on those numbers, and even for a truck, that seems pretty nose-heavy to me, so you might want to double check. Around where I live, there are lots of unmanned scales scattered around the highways, presumably for farmers, etc, to use. Surely there's something similar you can find where you live? You could also try to find a set of wheel scales. If you're really getting into track racing, you'll find they're very useful for setting your crossweights, in addition to finding centres of mass, etc. You may even be able to borrow someone else's if you ask nicely. Any serious racer with their own shop will have a set. So far as this swap is concerned, yes, you're getting into uncharted territory. There are far easier ways of putting 300 hp into an MJ, although given you've got a 2.8, it makes it harder for you to just drop in a stroker. I say ignore the grumpy old men (man?) on here. It's your truck, do what you want with it. This motor frankly makes as much sense as any other... and hey, you've already got it.

I grew up knowing how to read a sundial and at least knowing which way to hold the map from looking at the stars. I can't read a traditional clock any more though. We had one in the shop with reversed movement, and now I try to read them all backwards...

You'll also need the transmission computer (on the back of the passenger side lower dash panel) and the harness that goes with it.

Most part stores should carry them. Try the Help! section. Bring in the least broken clips to compare.

The a/c will come on in defrost, supposedly it helps dehumidify the air. Sorry I can't help you with the rest.

I can't tell you for sure where the O2 sensor plugs in on a 2.5, but I can say that splicing the wires in won't work out for you. O2 sensors take an atmospheric O2 reference through the harness, so if you cut and splice, you'll be interfering with that.

Just a note, unlike conventional incandescent bulbs, LED's are sensitive to polarity. They won't work if you put them in backwards. If it seems like you've got a dud, spin the bulb around and try again.

^This. I tried to put some 7-piece chrome from an '86 onto my '91... it didn't work. The 7-piece will require some surgery to the header panel just to sit properly. More work than it was worth to me.

The OBD1 HO's have the regulator on the rail, as well as a return. But you'd still be dealing the the TPS, yeah.

Got my build sheet from Chrysler, it was 4x4 its whole life. The axle looks original and I have no reason to suspect otherwise, and the truck was and still is almost completely stock, but it did have 290,000 miles when I got it, so it's always possible.

My January 22nd build '91 had a CAD. Don't know if that's early, though, if the model year change is in the summer.

The mirrors off an XJ will fit. If you're looking for floor mats, the MJ's floor pan is a little different from an XJ's but word is the preformed XJ ones fit well enough. Stockinteriors.com has replacement molded carpets, but I don't know about their fit.

Where you get parts depends on what you're looking for. As Incommando said, lots of parts interchange with the XJ Cherokee; everything from the doors forward is identical to a four-door XJ of the same year.

Yup, and most people will swear to you that leaving a battery on a concrete floor will ruin it as well. Just because many other people say or do something doesn't make it correct.

Jim's got what... 247 MJ's by now? Chances are good any truck you see in one of the pics is an MJ.

Wikipedia lists the IPA if not for the car company, then for the guy's name. It's very definitely Will-iss, not will-eez. Having only seen it written, I got "corrected" by a buddy on it, so I looked it up. Turns out I can read and was saying it correctly.

Yup, garbage. Find something better or splice it directly. The ball and socket connectors tend to jiggle themselves out sometimes, and are nasty corrosion traps. Frankly, spade connectors aren't all that much better, but they don't fall apart quite as often, and there's more contact surface so corrosion isn't quite the same issue. As was stated, the Weatherpack connectors are nice. So are Deutsch connectors.

Actually all of the ones in the top row were available for the MJ at one time from the factory. The AMC 20 was the heavy-duty rear axle option for the '86 model year, and it somewhat rare as originally set up for the MJ. The Dana 30 was the only front axle available under an MJ. The Dana 35 was the standard rear axle for all MJ's. The Dana 44 was the heavy-duty rear axle option for '87 and up. It's also fairly rare, but not quite to the same extent as the AMC 20. The heavy-duty rear axle was part of both the Metric Ton (Big Ton), and offroad packages, but could also be optioned separately.

My guess is whoever it was had the headlight switch burn out on them, and that was their solution. If it hasn't already been done, I highly suggest upgrading the headlight wiring while you're in there with a supplemental relay harness. There's another very recent thread where I posted up a couple links about it. Your lights will be brighter as a result, and there's less chance of your truck setting itself on fire.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36446-upgrade-headlights/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/38541-headlight-wiring-harness-questions/ Couple useful threads

Cut it off and put on a better one? I like spade connectors... Or just a solid splice.