gogmorgo

I haven't completely gone through this but it looks like it'll also function the same as the relay harness upgrade to reduce load on the headlight switch.

My first experience with traction control was in a 2008 HHR... Similar sort of thing, although with an automatic when the throttle was cut (instantaneously on the slightest wheel spin) it might roll forwards slightly (out into traffic) but mostly would just sit there doing nothing. I can see it causing pretty big issues with a manual trans... they must not really have planned those systems out with three pedals in mind. Stability control in my experience does mostly as you say, until you've cooked it so bad it can't exactly cope... but probably at that point you were heading for the ditch without it. Although I once was carpooling with a coworker, 35km of gravel each way, in a 2008ish Escape. Because I was never behind the wheel I can't really say if it was something she was contributing to or not, but the stability control if it detected a bit of wheel slip did something that felt akin to stabbing a stick into the spokes of a bicycle... we never actually crashed, but it would go from semi-normal cornering to massive understeer as it effectively locked everything up. We once had a flat, put on the donut, and could barely even deviate from a straight line without it spazzing and doing that sharp lockup thing repeatedly. And when I say sharp, it snapped your head forward every time. I can't imagine what it would have been like on snow or ice. The sound it made too made it seem a lot more like something was sticking into a slot in the trans than as if it was grabbing the brakes, it was a pretty harsh clunk.

Take a look at the callipers, post a photo of you can maybe? In '91 or so the knuckles, hubs, brakes, everything got changed, but the 2wd's kept the old design for a bit after the 4x4's adopted the new one. Easiest way to tell the difference I think is that the old style callipers had one large window in the back of it, but the new style has two windows. If you have two windows the 4x4 pads and rotors should work, if not, maybe try getting them for an '89? Are you thinking about changing callipers only for piece of mind? My experience is that rebuilt ones are reasonably cheap after the core is returned... My last pair were around $35/side.

Traction control really doesn't seem like it's for people who know what they're doing in snow. Systems from the last couple years seem to be getting a bit better than they were, but not by much. The brake-grabbing works one hell of a lot better than just killing all engine power, but sometimes you just need those wheels to spin and there's nothing else for it.

Question though is where you put the license plate.

I've seen those starter solenoids used as switched battery disconnects... They work really well cause if you don't switch it off every time you park it overnight they drain the battery We also have them paired with those breakers for radios or dual battery setups in older work trucks, as was mentioned, and my fuzzy memory had one as part of trailer wiring as well in a family van we had set up for heavy(ish) towing in the '90's. Other things include emergency vehicle (I.e police) light bars, electric-hydraulic systems... Yeah, anything you'd want decent amounts of power shut off when parked. At any rate most of these things if once equipped would leave evidence... Handset mounts for radios, holes for light bars, trailer harnesses, etc.

As to where you can buy them... Good luck. You might find one at a wrecker, although most are pretty beat up, rusted out, or both, by the time they make it to a yard. They do sometimes come up on Craigslist or eBay for a pretty good dime.

Sounds like a sticky throttle cable or linkage to me. Try working some penetrating oil into the pivot points in the pedal and the throttle linkage. Failing that get some lube into the throttle cable; the stuff for bicycle brake or shifter cables works great.

Awesome. And no problem. After moving it all 1000 miles I'm realizing I really don't need half the crap I'm hanging onto. I just don't want to throw out good parts if someone else might need them.

Not sure if you want to run gl4. Most people here recommend 10w30 or some of the redline mtl stuff when the subject comes up.

Now I'm curious if the nudgers are effective at nudging, or if they'll just explode if you try nudging something. I've never looked at them too closely.

It's not too much hassle if all I'm doing is dropping it in the mail. I just can't guarantee I can get it to you any sooner than two weeks shipped out on Friday. Priority mail would be $50 IIRC and "guarantees" six business days. If I can find it I can try to grab a serial number off it too if that'll help you out at all. I've got to go digging through that stuff today anyway, need to reorganize my garage cause I'm sick of not knowing where anything is.

PM me. Trick will be how soon you want it. Looks like about $30 for regular mail to a random zip based on your location, would take maybe two weeks to get there, but I work ten-hour shifts so can't make it to the post office while its open until Friday. I might be able to get it to a courier before then but I don't know what's around locally, and it might be a bit of a drive (50 miles +) to the nearest large courier's location. I wouldn't really be looking for more than cost to ship, it's not doing me any good and I can't guarantee I didn't cook it hooking it up to my '91. I guess I could hook it back up to see if it starts. Once I find it of course... It's in a box somewhere but after three moves in the last year I'm at a bit of a loss as to where exactly that box is. I couldn't find an ecu pin out diagram from '91 to look for differences, if someone happens to have one.

Hmm... Only 22 hours away from me, and I'll have a three-day weekend. Maybe if the MJ's back on the road by then...

Neither my '91 MJ or '92 XJ had the nudgers. I'll admit they were both far removed from new when I got them, but the XJ is so original it almost hurts... All the rubber parts under the front are even still there, as are bumper-coloured plugs for the nudger holes.

Yeah, the linked caliper says its for a 2wd. RockAuto also lists that part number as for RWD. Centric part #'s are 14258021 (right and 14258022 (left) for the '90+ 4x4.

That's what I was thinking too. But I'd also guess that those would be more than a few inches' difference. Sometimes I notice the stupidest things.

Was glancing at the Wikipedia article on the XJ just now and noticed that apparently the overall length changed, more times than I expected. In '91 it apparently gained 3-1/2", then in '94 it lost 2. I can't even think what this would be referring to. Maybe the addition of the bumper nudge blocks? Surely those were an option for all years though... So I did some digging, and traced the addition of the info back to a December 2007 edit by a user who got blocked in 2012 and eventually permanently banned due to a history of poor-quality photos, unsupported original research, and other disruptive edits. Are there official specs out there somewhere? I don't really care that much and obviously no one else has bothered to care in over ten years. I just thought it was weird.

Just based off the part numbers on RockAuto it looks like the ecu interchange years are '91-'92; '93; and '94-'95. I've got an ecu out of a '93 XJ Country in a box somewhere. The jeep ran before I parted it out three or four years ago. I hung onto it thinking I'd use it as a spare before I discovered the interchange issues, but I don't really need to hang onto it if I don't need it. It did get plugged into my '91 MJ once while I was doing diagnostics but it wasn't an ecu problem, I'm just adding that cause I don't know what difference there is between them and what effect it may have had on the ecu.

^^^ that. not an end-of-world thing, but you do loose ground clearance below your driveshaft and there's talk of the gears being weaker due to driving the opposite side of the gear teeth. But they came factory in ZJ's, TJ's, WJ's etc without major concerns.

The brakes and hazard lights use the same filaments in the taillight bulbs, so if the brake light switch shorts out then you'll have issues with the hazard lights. You'll notice if you have the hazards on they'll quit blinking and just go solid when you hit the brakes.

Or forever...

Yeah, I'm not sure how the factory obtained their numbers but they're pretty low. I rolled over a scale in my MJ with me and some tools on board, at 1800kg. 1100 front axle, 700 rear. I'd estimate ~350-400lbs on board, so that's at least 3600lbs for my completely stock '91 lwb/aw4/231 with some of the redneck lightness/air con added. Um, rust.

Get the J E E P stickers from Jeepstickers.com. The ranger bed looks like it would almost go better with the '97+ front end than the MJ rear.

A '93 wouldn't have. Maybe an alarm but not an actual security system that prevents starting, unless something aftermarket was installed.