CWLONGSHOT

Either Carlton or Carlson.. I can't remember what he told me... :oops: :oops: Look at the springs on this thing!!!! It doesn't flex at all under my new lite weight!! :shake: :D The trailer looks AWESOME with its fresh coat of POR15!!! If I haven't mentioned it.. I am very impressed with how its turning out!!! ;) ;) ;) I began cutting out some gussets and mocking up the fenders. The gussets go up front where I cut and bent the side rails to angle forward. 1/4" diamond plate, completely covers the joint and extends forward to the cross beam I added to support the box. They will also cover the holes between the box and the frame. The fenders, are another story, I tried a couple positions and finally decided on 2.5" from the frame rail. I WAS going to weld on pieces of angle upside down and attach fender front and back. The shackle mounts are in the way for this. Now I am thinking maybe lite 2" SQ tube straight from the frame, extending across the outer surface of the fender. Still working this out... any suggestions?? CW

That would have to be either a bad hub/bearing unit or bad ball joint(s). YUP... As usual, Eagle is spot on. This also means the problem existed BEFORE the lift. Lifting the truck, changed the caster and brought the problem to light. CW

Nice idea... LOTS of work for little return. It takes BUKU engineering top get it right. IMHO, Your better off with what you have. Just replace the leaf packs with a supple, flexible pack. Install a good set of gas, long travel shocks in appropriate mounts. I recommend Bilstein. Then bump stop it properly. CW

While I agree the dropped pitman arm in not needed. Its not likely to be causing your problem. It causes bump steer. Swap it back to a factory unit. More likely if you didn't have any issues before lift. You have effectively decreased you caster, IMHO this is your problem. That worn TB bushing should be addressed but also will not cause this problem. Something needs to set it off, like the caster... CW

Sure, didn't think of that!! The common swap would be to the conventional system, utilizing the newer XJ setup. CW

I haven't named any of mine either, I usually say '89 or '99 or blue or green or black. But my TJ has been dubbed "Eugene" because of the stickers on its fenders... My MJ is called the "blue" one by my wife. CW

I bought the wife a fancy TomTom about a year ago. I don't know the number either, IIRC I paid $400 for it. Its a wide screen as well. (Maybe same as yours) After the learning curve, I really like it and its options. CW

1990 started the interim years when crysler took over from AMC. This vehicle is most likely a still a renex system. If that is the case, its does not have an overflow bottle, it has a pressure bottle on the pass side firewall. Its located up high, just under the hood. Its called a sealed system, there is no radiator cap, but the cap on the pressure bottle is similar. CW

Well above the legal limit. :D I've got 4.10s and 33s and while it's OK, I'd like to have a bit lower gear. 4.56 make for a good compromise. :thumbsup: Oh, and 4.88 is a lower gear ratio than 3.08. Higher number = lower ratio I have 4:10's in the TJ with a 5SPD and am currently running 33AT's. The thing goes like a rapped ape!!! But its newer, with less miles and has to be producing more power than my MJ. The MJ has 4:56's with an AW4, and again, 33" tires. But this time MT's. While its no slouch, its not nearly as peppy as the TJ. :D There is allot of personal opinions going on here. Your best commonality IMHO is actual engine RPM's at speed. As Eagle has listed for you. Target a bit more RPM for a bit more power but lower mileage. CW

I washed and vaccumed mine out, then put it in the garage for a couple days... forcast is for sun, sun, sun, highs in the 80's.. The top/door less TJ is my ride till Friday!!! CW

I was going to do that Maaco premiere paint job, just after the holidays when they offer it for half price. So it should have been like $600 right... NOT try 3500!!! WTF?!?! SO, I looked into rattle can paint jobs... this is what I did. I think it came out really well. Done get me wrong, its not perfect and I have made some mistakes. But over all for about 15-20 cans of paint and a couple days work. I like how it came out!! CW

Its been some time since I installed one... But I seem to remember a important measurement. One that Aussie would need to know if you had problems like the one your having. Double check your paperwork and I'll bet that that measurement is not with in spec. Good luck, CW

If I understand what your describing correctly, this is a dealer/JY only part. Mine isnt in great shape either, but I was able to extend its life with some JB type epoxy puddy. Mine was not corroded thru though.. just loose at the solder joint where the tubes go thru the plate. CW

Its not a very hard job!! I have done it three times on my MJ alone!! (I keep getting bad units!) CW Glad it all worked out!! I am on the third pump in my MJ..... CW

Not at all!!! All opinions welcome, that's why I posted this!! :D :D I have tried the slick 50 to years back with little to no return. Your spot on, there is so many gimmicks and scams going on it is not even funny. But this was a show, dedicated to this product or at least people who have shows putting it on and endorsing this product. IIRC the guys from two guys garage did it. They had many people and even the owner of the company very convincing...heck I forked over the $35!!! I have some tappet noise like all 4.0's. But I seem to have one or two really stubborn ones. They sure seem like they are getting momentarily oil starved. I'm hoping this product clears that up. Time will tell... Thanks for all replies. I'm post up findings in a while.. CW

Its either your cap is bad or you have air in the system. Both cause exactly what your seeing happen. CW

Well we had a couple hours tonight after dinner so we finished the bracket for the tool box as well as the bracing. Then got the whole thing a coat of POR15. Next is the fenders. Gotta find a strong mounting method. CW

The Hobart Handler140 is what I have. It IS a Miller by another name as Miller owns both. My "gun" even says miller on it. Personally, I would buy a Lincoln, Miller or Hobart. Of the three, I found Hobart to be the most cost effective. CW

You told me that before Pete. I had forgotten, :( I was in the habit of copying before posting, (Per others suggestions) with my last problems.. But it has not do it to me. Now this is a different problem. I didn't get bumped off, the page just wouldn't load, as if too much traffic or the site was busy or something. I was unable to "back button" to retrieve the page. It would back up, but only to the reply page, my actual post was gone. I am not sure, I have seen it, but do not know the make or model. Maybe my bro-in-law will read this and post up for us... Ooh Jeffie.... :rotfl2: :wavey: . Thanks man. I will not soon forget. It kept me up most of the night.. It still hurts like hell!!! :headpop: I just realized I didnt post one of the best shots from yesterday!! Here you go!! Only thing missing was the beer... :shake: :mad: CW

Will do!! Count on it!! CW

This is from there web site:

Fixed it for ya. Last I knew, differential gears were steel, and steel is a ferrous metal ... GOTCHA! LOL.. Tanks man!! Even if I don't type what I mean... I mean what I say. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :shake: CW

Any one try this? I saw quite a informative and convincing show On this product a couple weeks back. I tried it today.. Image Not Found CW

I did some welding today..... These are welds from my 115V Hobart handler 140 with .030 flux core wire on .125 and .250 steel. I haven't changed my opinions, and I don't post this to confuse you. I still suggest a 220v machine, but with some experience a 115v welder using flux core wire can weld 1/4" steel very well. CW

I just spent more than an hour writing this post... click submit... BAM.. Its GONE, the page would not load and link was lost..... DID I mention this pissed me off bad and I am mad... :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Here is a link to all the pics... If you need it the pass word is JEEPER. I finished all the welds on the bottom. Then we flipped it and I again finished all welds on this side. my brother-in-law made up the front plate and then I welded that up. Then we drilled, bolted and welded on the coupler. Last week my brother-in-law scored a very nice stainless steel box!! We also trial fit the fenders.. Of coarse they are jeep "style"!! Everything was going great until I decided to weld my thumb... We need to weld in the rear support/jacks. Some gussets for them and the box up front. Then two 4" sticks of angle to support the 2X10 deck boards. I'm very happy with how this is turning out!!! CW