CWLONGSHOT

I agree with Eagle. I have run Sence-A-Tracks on a bunch of vehicles. Very nice riding shock/strut!!! Sorry never run the OME shocks. But I have herd nothing but good things form everyone who have ever used a OME product no matter what it may be. Personally, I would not be afraid to try them. CW

Just about everysingle part, from the back of the front doors forward, is IDENTICLE between a Comanche and a 4door Cherokee. This includes, Interior as well as exterior. CW

YES, The Ranger rims will interchange with Jeep rims. They have the same 5 X4.5 hole spacing. There is an issue with Hubconsentric vs Lugconsentric. But most people do not have any problems. I am not positive of all Ford rims, BUT the steel version has 3.75" of BS. A nice CHEAP way to get a bigger tire under a jeep!!! I'll bet the aluminimum version is about the same. I mean if they make one this way it must be needed for some reason right?? Here is some pics of a guy in my club. ALL, his Jeeps have Ford rims on them!! CW

This goes to show people preceptions can be VASTLY different!! I too have the RUSTYS 4" springs. I think the ride is awesome, even better/more supple than the factory spring in my LWB MJ. Not stiff in the least! CW

I had a creaking popping noise that is now gone!! It only is herd in the colder weather. Its obviously caused by something moving, as its dissapeared, something has been stopped from moving. So it IS working!!! I cleaned the area surronding the steering box looking for any cheaks, found none. BUT I did not remove the box. I WILL come warm weather. I am guessing I will find something behind the box. If so, I'll weld it up and afix some C-Roc plates and my steering brace and call it done. Hydro-assist while cool and all, is NOT needed with only 33's on the street. :D CW

I herd this nonsence as well when I put the 8.8 in the rear of my TJ. NOT TRUE!!! A REAL prop valve IS A GOOD idea in a MJ as the crappy rear mounted one is problematic to say the least. But to say you MUST do this OR____ will happen is a load of crap! I have NO problem with the rear disc's on my TJ using the factory brake lines, prop valve, MC and vac booster. I also ran the rear brakes on my MJ by just removing the rear prop valve and changing the line in the fornt dist block with ZERO PROBLEMS!!! Yea the rear will lock up first, but so did the rear on EVERY single PU I have ever driven!! CW

As far as DC goes think of it as a water pipe. The bigger the more/better flow. Lack of flow/constriction is heat. IE a hot wire has too much juice going thru it. If your going the custom route, defineately go big!!! I work in a Hospital and we are doing lotsa renovations. I scored some XRAY cable. Its big stuff and like brand new!! FINE stranded and at least 1/0 with thick cover. Its damn near 1/2" in diameter! I am going to make my own as well. DEFINEATELY STAY AWAY from the clamp on jobbers!!! :eek: :eek: CW

GUYS, SPENCE IS CLOSE TO ME AND A MEMBER OF OUR LOCAL CLUB. IF I CAN HELP WITH ANYONE THIS STUFF, I WOULD BE GLAD TO. MY MJ HAS ALL THE FACTORY BADGES. I ALSO HAVE A COUPLE SETS OF THE OLDER STYLE BEDGES. I CAN PROVIDE SPENCE WITH ANY AND ALL MEASUREMANTS. cw

On EBAY??? If so I think I saw them!!! CW

It aint gonna bend, I am fairly sure of that. It dosen't move hardly at all with out the clamp. It could flex at the pass side. I am going to take it down. I'm gonna add a gusset between the bolt holes and remount to the underside of the frame rail. Its a plumbing pipe standoff/ riser clamp. Avalible at any plumbing supply store. CW

Here are some pics to better clarify what Eagle just explained to you. Here is the OIL SENDER: Here is the TEMP SENDER: DO NOT TOUCH THIS ONE!!! Good luck, CW

I got a chance to do a minor upgrade to the MJ today. I have been wanting to do this for some time. it was WAY easier that I anticipeted. I ewas able to make it entirely out of scrap and extra parts!! I have seen these for $80 - $90 bucks!!!! I used a 2" plumbing clamp and a couple 3/8 X 2" bolts. A 24" piece of Poop Pipe. (What MJ mod would be complete with out poop pipe!!) A 4" piece of think 2" angle iron and a couple 5/16 X 1.25" bolts. I trimmed the clamp down a bit, leaving one end untouched: I clamped this to the steering box: I positioned the angle iron to the frame on the opposite side and clamped in place with a "C" clamp: Then I cut the poop pipe to legnth and bent the "tab" from the plumbing clamp to point at the angle iron on the opposite frame end: I tack welded in place. Then removed and completely welded and painted rustolium Black: then I put it up in position and tightened the bolts around the steering box. I went back to the other side and "C" clamped the algle iron in place and drilled one hole thru the frame and angle iron. Then a second hole was there in the frame for the tow hooks so I only had to drill thru the angle iron for this one. Add the 5/16 bolts and tighten down: I think it came out pretty good for just winging it. I had seen pics of others braces and copied the ideas. My only consern is with the pass side. The bar will allow some give as the cross bar is at the bottom of the angle allowing some leverage. CW

I built my own a while back. It worked OK, not great. i picked up a used unit for CHEAP!!! i now have the posi-lock in the MJ. More so because the vacuume system was an issue, or so I thought. After installing the Posi-loc, I found the real problem was the "motor" in the disco, it wouldn't allow the fork full travel. Anyway, the Posi-loc works perfect everytime and also allows 4LO WO/engaging the front axle!! Very nice for launching a boat on a steep ramp, pulling stumps or having to make tight turns off road. CW

With your '89's axle disco stuck engaged, its technically the same as newer D30's with one piece axles. Just not quite as strong. I gotta tell you, allot of people have run a locker in the front with out any problems, myself included. As long as there is no power going to it it will be invisible. I ran a Aussie in the front of my TJ for two summers and a winter. The only times I knew it was there was IN 4WD and sometimes in 2WD you could hear the ratcheting with the doors off in corners. Having a disco AND a locker would only eliminate most of the ratcheting. One could argue an miniscule amount of better fuel economy but even adding hubs the difference is negligible. CW

Swapped out the heim with a MOOG TRE today on my Skyjacker track bar. The heim was making noise. BEFORE: AFTER: CW

Its not the wheel well, but you get the idea. its much like pete's!! My rear wheel wells where rusted thru as well. i just removed the flairs. Cut out the cancer. Moved the flairs up and re-installed!! CW

I just sent him a email asking him to come here. I am sure, he will be checking in soon!! CW

These are attractively priced and work AWESOME offroad..but will wear fast and once 3/4 worn will SUCK in rain and snow on the street!!! WAY better off with the BFG, TOYO, Bridgstone AT's!!! All should give you at least a 50'000 mile tire with excellent performance offroad in everything but mud. If mud is what you like get the BFG or Toyo MT's. CW

This is EXACTLY what I have found and told many people. My MT's are excellent in new, deep snow. Either on or off road, but once it gets packed they BLOW!!! the AT's I have had are good all around, new snow, packed snow, no real difference, they just work!! CW

For the REAR use a mid 90's Dodge Dakota line. For the FRONT I used factory rubber YJ lines with the mounting points lowered. I am at more than 6" of lift. CW

OOPs MY BAD, You are correct 3/4X16 thread!!! I got the TRE today, its going to be perfect!!! CW

Well, it is what it is as its done. I will change it if I am required to. Its a tad throater with a deeper in tone. Maybe thats just because its now exiting closer to my ears while driving. I even want to say its got a bit more pep. Probably just my imagionation. :roll: :cry: I have spoken with a number of people who should know and they feel I will be OK. I asked my detective buddie and he told me he didnt care. It wasnt his deal anymore and I wasnt in his town enough to worry about anyway... Nice huh!! CW

I do not know the model mig I have, but I bought it used from a guy at the hospital who wanted a 220 unit. The paperwork says its rated for 5/16 steel. He bought it in 1998 for $1200 bucks, its a snapon unit. I started with .30 wire but find the .35 stuff is better for the poop pipe I use!!! PLENTY of purdy colors on the inside. So penetration is not a problem at least on up to shc 80 poop pipe!! :brows: :brows: CW

Now that I have the roll bar I would kinds like to have the CB antenna mounted centered. I am just worried it may be too high. Although I do have lights up there...... I have always mounted it to the bed on the drivers side with a spring and a 102" steel whip. BTW, I will be using a 102" steel whip and a spring this time as well. How would you mount it?? Show me the pics!!! CW

For the REAR use a mid 90's Dodge Dakota line. For the FRONT I used factory rubber YJ lines with the mounting points lowered. I am at more than 6" of lift. CW