CWLONGSHOT

You will find no one is going to support the D35. Its not really that bad...but we all know its a weak link. So if your going to upgrade..do it right the first time and don't waste your hard earned cash on a sub quality part. Like twisty recomended...Go for the 8.8 FORD from a 96 or newer EXPLODER OR a newer 95+ XJ 8.35 or the XJ D44. There are a couple more choices, but these are the most popular. There is also gearing to think about. You don't mention your tire size or what your going to be doing with it...but the 8.8 is readily avalible with 4:10's. Just watch for a 4CL XJ/MJ for the same geared front axle for a swap in gear change.. WAY cheaper than having your re-geared!! Just a couple pointers.. ...but to answer your question, Yes, you could lift your rig with a D35 in it but sooner or later your gonna break it with the bigger tires that follow a lift... CW

long as he had a welding hood on ;) . I HEAR THAT!!! I was doing those rear shock mounts last week end... well welding upside down is tough enough... but doing it on your back with a flip down helmet is a REAL pain!!! So I did it with out and just closed my eyes!! :eek: :eek: My "sun" burn on my fore head and cheeks is peeling nicely!!! :D :oops: ;) CW

I am taking EAGLE's advice for a muffler!! I am going to keep the side exit as it really affords the clearances I want. I found a GIBSON @ JEG's!! http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... _763955_-1 I should have it in a couple days!!! HAPPY EASTER GUYS!!! CW

If your consern is just the spinning axle, You will not hurt a thing. In your TJ Its spins all the time. Because of the disco axles many XJ/YJ/MJ had there is no spinning, but minimal advantages to this. I say throw it in, its one step closer to 4WD!! CW

Looks mighty fine!!! CW

I use LOGAN STEEL, in Meriden CT. They have a "scrap" area where you can buy anything in there for .75c a pound. CW

Looks mean...I LIKE IT!!! CW

I liked mine, my only issue was the adjustment. The top of my coils were a tad too small. So they pinched the isolater just enough to not allow spanner nut adjustment. Thats unless you compressed the coil completely off the adjuster. In case you don't know, thats just shy of actually removing it, BTW. :eek: CW

For the track bar, I recomend the JKS or better yet the improvement on JKS...the KEVENS track bar conversion. :bowdown: For the dis os I again recomend the JKS Quicker discos. You can get the U bolts a number of places as well as locally to you at a shop that makes leaf springs. What rear axle do you have? There are different sizes for different axles. CW

Try here.. www.yuccaman.com OR, more specfically: HERE http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html Down to the bottom of the page is a chart with suuggested CA legnths!! CW

Ah guys...transfer case drops are not intended to keep your slip joints from coming apart... Longer drive shafts have that problem covered. :roll: :roll: CW

You get what you pay for...buy a lesser kit and then buy all the missing pieces and the price genreally exceeds what the price of a complete kit would have cost. I lifted my MJ piece meal...by the time I was done I saved NOTHING!! My brother-in-law is beginning to lift his... He is going RE 5.5 and getting 99% of what he needs first shot!! Just my humble opinion... CW

Comanches do not generally need these kits as the DS is long enough. CW

Do you have a press? It could be a number of different bearings... most will require a press to remove and re-seat. CW

You can also look in my build up thread... I used 1/4" bolts and fender washers....simple!! CW

I agree!! CW

PLEASE tell me how he got replacements!!! I have kept the bad one I have as its almost brandy new!! CW

I used them for a while!! Coincidentally, I just mounted mine to my fathers XJ today!! they are almost 5" eye to eye. So should give him about an inch of extra lift. they won't lift a MJ at all. But they are beefier and a good UPGRADE on that point alone!! CW

I bought extended rear shocks when I origionally lifted the jeep. Then I decided to move my lower mounts up... efectively negating the need for the longer shocks. I mounted them anyways. Because of that, I had to make those LONG bump stops to keep from bottoming out on the shocks. My answer was to tip the tops of the shocks in, towards the center. I used a 45" long piece of heavy 2.5" angle iron. I cut 3" from one side of the angle so I had a shelf that would sit on the bottom of the frame. Then mounted "HELP" section shock mounts to it. And of coarse I painted it... Then I welded it in place. On the long bed MJ's the shocks are in front of the axle. So I mounted my angle iron shock mount just in front of the factory bump stops. It came out very nice. Here is is from the rear all done. Now I need to get the truck on the fork lift at work so I can measurer for the new bump stops. bri

Mitch, Right on brotha!!! 8) :bowdown:

Just a little interjection here.. Generally speaking there are two topics that each of our opinions on, should be kept to ourselves. POLITICS and RELIGION Generally speaking these are two subjects people feel very strongly about. For that reason should be avoided on forums like this one. I like the guys on here and likely will only ever get a chance to meet a couple of you. Frankly, I don't want to know where you stand on these two topics. CW

Here is a pic of a 20 in a MJ, only avalible in 1986 from the factory and even then only on the one ton version: Here is a D44 cover. (If you sharp, you will notice this is actually a FRONT cover. by the position of the fill plug.): Image Not Found Here is a D44 in a MJ: Image Not Found Here is a D35 "C" Clip cover (Not avalible till aft 1990): Image Not Found And lastly here is a NON "C" Clip cover in a MJ (This is most likely what you have): Image Not Found These are all the possible FACTORY options for rear axles you could have in your truck. If someone swapped in another axle along the way, well we couldn't possibly know. If you can post up a pic and then we will tell you exactly what you have. CW

With the fact 195 T stat, it will run almost to 210. You could put in a 180 T stat, but I would not advise the 160 many people say to put in. The 4.0's seem to like it hot. Flush the system, install new T stat and refil with 50-50 mix abd call it good. Be sure to bleed all the air out or you will have more overheating problems. I'll be doing mine here next month. CW

Pete is correct. PROPER GEARING is the single best thing you can do. I realize there is nothing gained in the "look at what I did" catagory. Trust us, you will get the BEST bang for your buck by re-gearing. CW

Your not crazy at all!! I have the SAME problem up front. I just have an extra .75 spacer under the drivers side coil. My Rustys rear springs have begun to sag a bit. Not a major problem...yet. I have lost less than an inch and they did lift MORE than the advertized 4inches. I am flerting with the idea of adding the stock overload. It would still ride nice but compression would begin to get stiff. CW