CWLONGSHOT

likewise, it could be c clip or non. Correct, but I'll bet its a "C" Clip D35. 1989/90 was the break for the non "C" Clip so it could be either, but most 90's got the NEW "C" Clip axle. CW hard to say. My factory 87 axle was non, and the 90 axle I got was non. you never know what parts AMC was using that week. Agreed...as some one has said.... "Truer words have not been spoken!!" ;) CW

likewise, it could be c clip or non. Correct, but I'll bet its a "C" Clip D35. 1989/90 was the break for the non "C" Clip so it could be either, but most 90's got the NEW "C" Clip axle. CW

Well, its been some time sisnce I added anything here, so I figured an update was in order. I havent done a whole lot as there isnt mh left that needs doing... But I put my All Terrain BFG's back on. But this time I mounted tham on the Factory 10 spokes. I painted them GRAPHITE alum wheel paint. This is a 33X10.5X15 tire on a factory 15X7 rim with 5.25" of back spaceing. no rubbing. CW

Here is what I did... CW

Being a 1990, and 2WD, I am also betting on D35 as well. It could have either the steel hex plug OR the rubber fill plug. CW

OH, I thought you had removed all the poly.... Even a little bit of visual play will transmit into LARGE amount of lag feeling at the wheel!!! Get rid of that poly and see how things feel. CW

If everything is now tight and you still have some play, Check your box and its mounts. I made up some box braces and this along with my winch mount really strengthened up my hole steering box area. You will still get a touch of roll even with these spacers. But you shouldn't be able to feel it or notice it when driving. My guess is there is something else going on at the same time. CW

:needpics: :needpics: Turn ON sarcasm< Come on people... There are RULES of edict that must be followed. How can someone make a claim, of a sighting, of a one of a kind Comanche with out producing pictures? The WORLD is gonna stop spinning and we are all going to fall off!!!!> Turn sarcasm back off. :eek: :D CW

Tim, Its some kind of hard or semi hard rubber. I doubt the washers or discs are hardened, just cad plated to resist rust. They do hold up MUCH longer than the poly crap JCR chose to use. I think your right, its just in polys nature to do what its doing in this case. What your seeing between the washers IS the rubber spacer. But it has a bit of a lip to kinda locate it between the washers. (See pic) Its only "OOZING" out, untill the washers touch. Giving the whole thing much greater stregnth. One other thing came to mind... is there any wobbles in your tapers? I mean I think you did yours on the vehicle and it possible to get them a bit out of round. If so, no spacer is going to help. Get some new outers and ream on a drill press or Bridgeport. Where you have control and can be sure everything is square. They will be perfect and your problems will be gone!! Good luck, CW

Glad you found it!! CW

Check the wires and connections as well. get your self some dielectric grease and use it. CK the power line from the alt. If its black inside thats corrosion and will impeed flow and raise impeedance overlowering the amount of "juice" that gets to your batt. I made my own and changed all my battery cables and alt wires some months back. I also upped the size on all. I added a BIG alt and this required a #6 wire for the alt. The jeep starts better and even the motor runs better !! CW

Best answer I can give you is to say the JEEP did there home work... The poly spacers where a knee jerk responce from JCR to try to solve the problem..little actual field tryal. Remember, I am the one who informed them of this product as they had no idea it existed till I spoke and sent along pics to them. The poly spacers, do work for a VERY short time than squish out as you are finding. I have been running the factory stuff since the install in both jeeps with ZERO PROBLEMS ro any apreciable wear in either vehicle. CW

my truck is 4.0L (had) a/c, no electric locks/windows and has the 104amp alternator (i know cause i replaced the old one) with wipers, blower on 3, lights, dual electric fans, and cd player/small sub going its low on the gauge but not below 12, probly say 12.5ish (that was this afternoon) Also, don't take the reading from factory gages as gospel!! They will merely offer referance and even then can be WAY OFF!!! Unless you running a good quality after market gage wired correctly. Direct to batt for a volt meter OR one side to the batt and ALL electrical draw items threw the other side for amp meter. Just FYI...

I still say tires...New doesn't automatically mean right or fixed or eliminate them as the problem. Tires begin to need to be balanced at + - 35MPH. that's where your problem begins....notice a trend? Try OTHER tires, got a buddie you could try his for a trip doen the road? CW

1) The drop brackets will and do work just fine!! 2) No the XJ, reinforcements will not fit on a MJ. 3) The factory lower CA brackets are more reinforced on MJ's than on XJ's. BUT, if severe duty is what you need, Jeepco is correct, an MJ version could be easily made at home if you have the equipment. 4) Yes I have them, and I LOVE the improvement since installing them!!! 5) case in point, You cannot believe everything you read!!! Jeepco, If you don't know, (Said you read about this) and you don't even have them. Your comment is just getting the poor guy all confused?? YES the brackets give more leverage to the factory pockets that could result in problems AND, what goes up also comes down. Neither of these comments is worth mentioning. The drop brackets are WAY beefy and when properly installed, beef up the entire assembly around the control arms. Here is a news flash for everyone, OFFROADING PUTS MORE STRESS ON ALL PARTS OF YOUR RIG! MWinland, RE is a reputable company who makes many thousands of lifts every year. They know what they are doing and they have been doing it for some time. Of coarse, everything CAN BE BROKEN!! But, these are not weakly assembled or poorly thought out. Furthermore, they are PERFECTLY SAFE if properly installed. Look, if you want driveability returned to your XJ/MJ and your lifted over 4" look into DROP BRACKETS!!! CW

Get underneath and see if you have any wires in the linkage of the Tcase. I'm thinking you may have a short happening. Just a shot in the dark... CW

Get the truck running and remove the pos side batt cable. If it stalls, your ALT is not working properly and is likely your problem. Install a new ALT and charge the batt overnight OR trickle charge for a couple days and you should be fine. CW

Here it is You will find it just under and behind you pass side front tire... Image Not Found Here it is loooking thru the pass side wheel opening: Image Not Found In the pic above, I was having simular problems to yours. I decided to run all new vac lines. You can see the rubber lines in the pic. the factory stuff is plastic and colored. You can see that in my first pic. Post above shows you what the inside is like. Its just a "fork" that moves a "collor" to connect the inner and outter axle shafts of the pass side. Here is a great site for maintaince as well as upgrade projects!! http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/ CW

As a general rule of thumb...You MUST increase the ability to get air/fuel in and OUT to get any real benefit of a cam swap. You MUST be able to flow better to get the full benefit of the new cam. Think of it this way..... A 100FT of 1/2" hose with a pump smack in the middle. The pump is rated to flow max at top efficiency with X hp in a 1/2" hose. Put in a new pump at 25% greater HP with the same hose...what do you get...NO real increase as it already was operating at top efficiency. BUT increase the dia of the hose 25% up to 5/8" now you will be getting TOP performance form the new pump, (cam).. get it? CW

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

Here is the "shim" that Eagle has referred to: (Photo, borrowed from http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm ) It goes behind the lower control arm MOUNT to effectively, lengthen the OA length of the lower control arm, . Thusly, increasing the caster. CW

Chains have there purpose!! I also keep two ten foot pieces of 3/8" with hooks attached in the TJ's recovery bag... Rarely use or need them, but they are there "just in case". CW

With out knowing anything sans what you just described. i would say its likely you have a couple things going on at once...nothing really bad...but the combo of worn parts all took part in today's "fun" !! BTW, you got off easy!! Full blown DW doesn't stop until you pull over and completely stop, get out and circle the jeep TWICE looking behind you for the parts you KNOW fell off!! :eek: :eek: CW

Its unlikely the actual Vac disco itself is causing this problem. More likely a faulty part for problem with the fork or possibly even the T case itself. What is the actual symptoms? BTW, all the disco does in engage front axle. The Tcase shifter inside the truck puts it in 4WD. Hows the chain in the T case? How many miles? CW

Twisty, you forgot a couple.....All MJ's where Hi pinion and all ZJ' and WJ's are LO pinion. :D As I don't believe MJ's ever got the 242 T case, All where a Hi pinion Vac disco for the year 1989... (I know MJ's stopped production in 1992) To expound a bit, all XJ/MJ with the 231 T case made before 1995/96 got the vac disco front axle. If it had the 242 T case it got a solid axle.. but even then, it got the small joints until 1995/6. CW