CWLONGSHOT

Well, thats different... This was chebys answer to the D44 in the truck line. It replaced the 44 as there axle of choice. IIRC it SHOULD be 30spl..... Don't be confused with the CAR 10bolt that was 27spl. CW

I based my answers on what I have herd from you in past posts. 1) DD 2) W/E wheeling 3) Short ride to work. 4) 4.0 swap likely Taking these into consideration (4.0 strongest deciding factor) the 4"88 swap is a good step. CW

What axle are you looking for the splins count on? 35 is 27 SPL in fact form. 44 is 30 SPL in fact form 8.8 is 29/31 spl in fact form 8.25 is 27/29 in fact form . . . . . .

Please don't get me wrong. There is absolutely NOTHING WRONG with the 2.5 engine!!! I never meant to infer there was. Its a GREAT motor, but like all things, it has its limitations. The larger the engine the more torque it produces, making the "window of operation" larger. Trying to push/roll a large tire without proper gearing in the 2.5 is a known problem area. Large tires have a lot more rolling resistance and weight that many people seem to FORGET about. To coin a phrase, what I am saying there is no replacement for displacement. ANYTIME you push things to the extreme you run into problems. This motor really NEEDS proper gears to stay with in its INTENDED power band. That DOSEN'T mean it won't work. Or you can't live with it. Or you know a buddie who....The single best thing you can do to improve the off-road ability of your rig is to have proper gearing. many people avoid it because its beyond the scope of most wheelers. When they look into it, they find its expensive. SO you hear "I run them with X size and wheel just fine" I use LO Range. Or I run the highway no problem, I just down shift to 4th on hills. What I am trying to tell you is something you will find out for your self once you do this. That's AFTER you dump hard earned coin to find it out. If I can help you save come coin be explaining what I already know to be true, I have succeeded in my attempt. I don't gain or loose a thing. Take or leave what I offer. They are just things I have learned, I offer them freely. Here is a neat calculator for figuring lotsa things with tire size and gearing. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Thanks for the compliments!! I was at 6.5 for a while, before I switched out to 1 ton steering and had problems. I put the HD steering is some time back and swapped in the 4.5" used coils at the same tiem. I lowered the ACOS's to put me at about 6 where I am now. My question is the coils. they are from an unknown source and spring rate. The do not appear to be sagged, but I really do not have any referance to compir them to. They are just too soft. I really liked (like) the soft ride, but the bottoming when going over potholes or speed bumps at anything above a crawl is annoying! I spoke with a good friend of mine who is a BDS dealer and he ordered me a set of 4.5" coils with a set of 6.5's on hold. I put them in with out the ACOS's and see what I get. I want a front lower rake and would rather not play with the rear suspention unless I have too. I also thought of another project.... I really need to build some protection for the lower rear quarters. My pop dented mine up pretty good last June in New Hanpshire. I saved some pics of some other guys on here and will intergrate all into my own and tie that into my rear bumper. CW

Thats ALOT of tire for a 2.5. Your front will not accept propper gearing for that size. (You NEED to be up in the 5's) 4:88's are not tall enough, and remember, thats the max for the D30. Once you get the 4.0 it will be better for sure. I have seenand worked with, a number of guys in my club with 2.5's in TJ's go to 35/36's with 4:88's thinking they would work fine... NOT. Just not enough snot to run them. Also remember, these are a true dia tire, meaning they run very close, if not exactly 36". Any radial 35 out there is up to a full inch SMALLER than that. My recomandation, as long as you KNOW your going with a 4.0. Go ahead and get them mounted up on ANOTHER set of rims. KEEP the 33's, because your gonna want to go back to them untill that 4.0 is installed. CW

Having to drill for a larger bolt is no biggie, as bolts go, bigger is stronger. But drilling a second hole is done because the TB is not correct length. Your correct in assuming this is NOT A GOOD thing if your doing it for an ADJ TB!!! Why the F$%K have an adj TB if you just gonna drill another hole to adjust the axle position??? These companies who throw people on the phones with out the proper knowledge of there product lines and PROPER application SUCK!!! Sorry for the rant, but this crap form manufacturers gets to me. Manufacturers using US for their R&D is wrong!! Guys buy reputable/proven stuff and these kinds of problems are NON existent!! Customer service is tantamount to an overall good product. Yahoos on the phone "helping" customers with problems, further reinforces my point about buying quality. Some months back we went round and round comparing and deliberating this TB with the RE and the Kevin's conversion. They are all similar in design. RE has proven to be a weaker bar. Now this kind of problems with the RK stuff... The Kevin's stuff is made from a factory bracket and JKS bars, converted to WJ style bushing. Both KNOWN to work and work well for the long term. Glad you got it to work. I sincerely hope you have no more problems with it. CW

A page or so back you mentioned you just got 4.5" coils. then here you say 3.5 coils. Which is it and do you have a pic with them in yet? CW

Those "look" like TJ "gamblers". If so I believe they are 8" rims. Nice look for that width tire. They are also a "TRUER" height tire. Making them closer to my 33 BFG's in actual height!!! Rokhound is right, you will love these... OFFROAD. They are not as nice for a DD and will wear FAST, be sure to rotate with every oil change. Swampers seem to MAKE/complete the look of a off road vehicle!! Good luck with them. CW

Quick tip on the TD bolt.. It takes two people, but the one job ANYONE can do and won't even get dirty!!! Have that person behind the wheel. Now turn the wheel until the holes line up!!! Sometimes the simpuleest things get right by us!! CW

Its just grease... it gets stiff and dosent allow it to spin freely. CW

I was at 6.5 up front... now close to 5.5. But with DB's need the extra legnth. I have 4" extended YJ lines and they are PLENTY long!! CW

I and many others have used a mid 90's DAKOTA rear brake line. CW

Wanna try that question again? The drive shaft dosen't move in and out, to engage/dis-engage 4WD..... I do not know of any "lines" in the hub..... CW

MUCH BETTER with the trimming!!!! CW

I really like the tail lights!! Nice and clean! What did you end up doing for rev lights? CW

WELCOME!!! Everyones got to start some where. this is as good as any!! Nice truck, hows the rockers and floors? BTW, MJ's only sort of got a frame... still just layered tin. :roll: Are you gonna record progress here with pics and writeups?? Good luck, CW

GOOD CATCH PAT!!! :cheers: Yea the XJ drive shaft for the rear is different legnth. But as Pat said, you could get yours shortened (Likely locally) pretty cheaply. :D CW

I WAS going to do this as well..... I went with the factory closed system. Its not so bad... just need to know how and what to expect from burping /bleeding the air out. NICE WORK!! CW

If your doing beakes, you should ALWAYS get new spring kits. the springs in the drums are subject to extreams in temp and that kills a spring!! Besides the are CHEAP!! I am also mentioning thgis because there are a couple clips thatyou will need that are in the kits. Spec a clip to hold #4 to the shoe. #3 is a spring and should be replaced with the rest. As I read this my first thought was you where also missing #4. It can be a bugger to get the cable off/on it sometimes. Good luck, CW

IIRC these number is not adj. It is what it is. if its coming on with AC, you likely did it just fine. The AC going on, automatically turns on that fan. To the best of my knoledge, It dosent go thru the temp switch. The temp switch is a secondary circut. the temp sender controls the fan in the event of higher engine temps. On mine the temp switch is just that, a switch, no polarity. It just allows current flow when its switched by the preset temp point. CW

BTW.. you do NOT NEED a Mj to do this!!! Look for XJ's!!! Cheaper and WAY WAY more plentiful!!! CW

Is that a shot of the upper mounting point from the inside out? If so, All I can figure was there was some binding. Did you take the time to clean the mud and debris from the CA pockets? Did you have all other bolts loose? Unless something was tweaked on your truck...I cannot think of what this was caused by. Here is a shot of the underside of mine, right aft the DB install. Also here is a link to my photobucket account. NAME: cwlongshot PASSWORD: jeep Glad you got it on and its working well for ya!!! CW

CONGRATS!! Welcome to the land of major debt!!!! Just think of the MAJOR Tax deductins you'll be able to take advantage of next tax season!!! CW CW

Unsure, only time will tell. I have quite alot of parts I've aquired. May just add this to the pile for some unforseen project down the road... CW