A-man930

Huh? All the links are for XJ/MJs

Here's the mounts I've found so far http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=6_115 http://www.browndogoffroad.com/index.as ... tegory=140 the ones from Browndog are advertised to give 1" of lift, but I don't know if they're poly... the MORE ones are factory height and are that fancy rubber stuff. What would I have to do to get a lift out of a factory height mount? Aren't they secured to the body with bolts welded to the body? Edit: What about these? http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=3477

Besides the fan shroud, are there any issues to consider with raising the motor about an inch??

interested as well

Well I went ahead and took it to a shop and they said I had an O2 sensor reading over 1 volt (something was shorting out??) which makes the computer go nuts regardless wether its in open or closed loop evidently. I'm going to go ahead and try it and see what happens. As for the fuel pressure slowly dropping, wouldn't that affect the whole time the truck is running? Remember, this is only happening intermittently... not all the time. and yes wakka_round, you're describing the same thing... which makes me hesitant to start replacing stuff

Well I wasn't necessarily planning on doing a belly-tuck, but that may be the end result! I'm just not sure if I'll be able to keep the stock height with the crossmember design I have in mind. Now if I were to raise it about an inch would I have to raise the motor as well? I have a shortbed, and I'm only planning a 5.5" lift in the end.

it does it sometimes as soon as it settles into an idle, open or closed loop.

I don't have much time, but in short my engine will start fine, but will shortly go into an irradic idle (sometimes down to 200rmp or so) and will occasionally kill itself. I can feel it while in gear as well. So far I'm thinking its spark related... it seems like i'm losing cylinders. Common issues? Guesses?

Does it die immeditately? or does it slowly drop down to nothing and finally die?

I thought of the driveshaft angle... figured I had a little room to spare, but I didn't think of the shifter linkage :wall:

I'm in the process of designing a custom transmission crossmember and I've been wondering exactly how critical it is to keep the mounted height at stock... I know I can get a shorter mount (go from 3" to 1.5") and that may take care of it, but I want to know if it's a big deal to have the whole assembly a little higher than stock... like an inch or so.

Well I'm hearing two different stories now... TNT, did you notice a drop off in torque and/or gas mileage with the 2.5" mandrel-bent system? What series flowmaster did you use?

Sweet. I'll grab a couple of them soon. Any recomendations on which intake/exhaust manifold gasket to get?

I'm wondering as well... do I spend the money and get a mandrel-bent 2.25" or a do a cheap non-mandrel 2.5" or it does it matter at all? I know there will be a slight torque drop off with less backpressure, but I'm not really worried about it. I will say that I'm all but certian that I'll go with putting the exit between the spring and frame rail on the pass. side... nice and out of the way :D

As clean as that particular one is, I'd rather keep the stock bed and make a nice slider bumper... our beds are all but useless as-is, lol.

I'll be replacing a few gaskets on my new motor before its installed. This is what I'm gathering... rear main: Felpro double-lipped valve cover: cork with sealant Oil pan: one piece rubber (95 and up iirc) And has anyone tried that gasket maker in those cheese-wiz cans? I saw them at work...

I was planning on having the exit on the rr above the leaf pack as well... nice and out of the way.

^^ditto

I was able to get about 4 intake bolts significantly tighter and the idle has dropped to about 1450. I'm assuming that there's either another vaccum leak somewhere or the intake still isn't sealed up all the way. Either way its much less anoying. As far as my question as to why it doesn't idle high at start-up I think I've figured it out. At start-up the computer is in open loop mode correct? (preset fuel and spark tables, no imput from the MAP, TPS, O2, etc...) Once everyting's warmed up the MAP detects the vaccum leak (same result as having the throttle open) and the computer adjusts the fuel accordingly. I guess the TPS imput is ignored over the MAP. Does this sound in the ballpark?

No help?

DOH! :wall: I knew that :roll: You would want to be carefull making the range case (the first one) the 4:1... thats allot of torque multiplication for that second case to handle.

'90 renix 4.0L. Idle's between 1600 and 1900 after it warms up. At cold start its around 1K. this makes me think its not a vaccum leak, otherwise wouldn't it start out high? I'm going to try and tighten the intake bolts and check as many lines as I can with a propane torch this weekend. Is my IAC valve bad? I did a check on it a while ago and it was fine (I'll have to look up what exactly the test consisted of later, it was in the Hayne's manual...) Any thoughts?

:???: Uh, that's still only two ranges, just lower.

The major advantages in my eyes are cost and gearing options... keep your highway gears (3:54s in my case) and have two low range options... for waaay less than an atlas or kluneV.

I get some good looks, mostly from other truck/Jeep guys (although I swear I'm sick of all the "Jeeps" around here that have NEVER seen the dirt... so not those Jeep guys.) I've had several modded toy trucks give a salute or a wave as well. The best looks gotta be when I'm all filthy after a trail run, some prick in dad's BMW, or some ricer in a civic... their faces read "yea, I'm not a man" :D