87manche

how much total lift? the 2wd leaf packs are about an inch shorter than the 4wd ones. I know someone that runs 33's without rubbing and some bumpstopping up front on his SOA lift. the rear wheel wells aren't a problem, the front's a smaller opening.

when you did the rear main did you inspect the crank for a groove? I'd give the offset seal a shot. Not a whole lot more you can do aside from resurfacing the crank.

there is an offset one available. I think felpro makes it.

maxxis buckshots or bighorns. I was quoted $425 for 4 buckshots 31x10.5 out the door on the truck. A little more for the bighorns. apparently most people get about 30K out of them for a DD, my neighbor with a TJ got about that, and a few other peple that I've talked to that had them got between 25 and 30. little noisy on the street at low speeds, highway speeds it's not bad, work well in mud.

if you disconnected the o2 sensor and it didn't make any difference then it's probably shot. disconnecting a working sensor should always affect the motor negatively.

I think that the easier route to geting rid of the blinker is to remove it, then replace it with a piece of lexan, a little textured paint and it blends in. Frankly, if I do TJ flares I think I'm going to make the signal functional, and then delete the corner markers on the fender. a 97+ nose, with filled in side markers would look cool I think.

with a lwb the rear ds is even loner and at a shallower angle. It's not a big issue.

all HO t-cases will have a 23 spline input. 87-90 AW4 t-cases were 21 spline. I believe that even the puegot had a 23 spline output, I know that all AX-15 trans were 23 spline output.

bushwackers are expensive, and they break easily. They're not nearly as flexible as stock jeep flares.

Honestly if you just want to fit 31's they'll fit stock. They will rub on the steering skid and the LCA's at full lock but it's not bad. They'll also rub the frame rails in the rear when you really work out the rear suspension. maybe I should bumpstop those, but it flexes good.

3" is going to be the less costly route. I re drilled my TB axle mount, but I think that aything higher than my lift and you wouldn't be able to get it centered. I've got a 3" skyjacker lift on my junk I got for cheap. I'm not sure where amanda is, but I'm in ashland. You need a hand with anything hit me up. If you want a garage to work in with air tools you're welcome to it.

I've been looking for a new rear axle. Not sure if I want to do the 8.8 or not. Bonus is that I can get a complete(minus calipers) 8.8 for $100 in just about any flavor I want. But I don't want to deal with the backspacing issues of my stock wheels. Hell, they already rub the frame rail. I was looking for an old mopar car axle in the 63" WMS range. I figure tat if an 8.75 can live behing a 11 second car it'l probably do alright in my junk.

well, being a 2.5 You should have a dana 35 with 4.10's in the rear if it's a 5 spd, 3.55's if it's a 4 spd. If you're not planning on wheeling it hard keep the stock axles. Go SOA on the rear, and then get a matching lift up front. at 4+" up front you're going to likely need a new trackbar, and you should seriously consider going over all the front end stuff to avoid a deathwobble encounter. because the t-case was "married" to the trans in the Mj line you'll have to practically rebuild the trans to get the output right for the t-case. Might be better finding a 4wd donor cherokee and grabbing it's front axle, trans and t-case to bolt up to your son's rig. Make sure you get the correct gearing to match the rear axle.

I need to get back wth a guy about some doors. If I get them you can have the latches. I'm interested in glass and rubber pieces mostly. Oh, and doors to cut up for the trail :)

what rearend is in there? it might just turn up "missing" under the back of your truck.

www.madxj.com it's under axle, it has part numbers and step by step on putting the non-disco shafts in the disco axle.

the interior wiring harness/fus block is about the same. Might I suggest though that if you're going to be rewiring the fuse block a project that I've got underway. Grab a HO pDC from under the hood of a newer XJ and retrofit that in. Mxi fuses instead of fusible links, and a nice relay holder.

it will be close, but it won't fit. MJ's have a thikcer floor section than XJ, making us stronger. Check sherman parts for a floorpan replacemtn if it's that bad. If not, get a hammer and some sheetmetal.

if you can get axles for $100 then I'd go and find a 4.10 8.8 and a 4.10 d30 as pete suggested. 4.10 d30 you can find in a 4 banger XJ, YJ or TJ, so it shouldn't be hard. The YJ axle would need bracketry, but the TJ axle would bolt in. XJ up to 2000 are HP, YJ would also be HP. XJ would bolt in. TJ axle would bolt in but it would be LP.

awesome. you going 1 tons?

my hacked in hoppy flat connector was a POS too.

get the 4.10 geared front, match it to a 4.10 geared 8.8 and you'd be golden.

the hornet is a phenominal aircraft, but it's tasked with too many missions. In an effort to cut costs the Navy designed a jack of all trades. It does a number of things well, but none of them great. The A6 carried more bombs, and the f14 was a better dogfighter.

check out Marcus' writeup http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm it explains in very good detail how to check all aspects of your front end.

as long as the inputs match it'll be a bolt in swap. You'll need the shift gate, the bezel and the linkage, since you've got a donor it's cake. What trans is in each Jeep?