87manche

reason enough to carry a full set of fluids and a new filter. I learnt that lesson in uwharrie, when my coolant system exploded. Now I don't go anywhere without 6 quarts of motor oil, filter, gear oil, atf for the case and coolant.

front bumpers are the same.

No reason to raise the CoG if you don't have to. As for the wheel base, you're going to be bringing the tires quite aways forward for 100". Without a bed, I believe this would mean relocating the gas tank and moving the spring and shackle hangers forward. You may have to remove a section of frame, depending on how much up travel you want/have. I extended my Toyota's wheelbase 6" (to 116") last spring, and this winter/spring I'm shortening it 16" (to 100"). I'll agree with that, not to mention the axle wrap that can happen from going SOA. I fit 34x9.5 TSL's on the MJ with 3" of lift and cutting the fenders back to the pinch weld. It doesn't rub at all in the rear, and I added a hockey puck to the coil bucket to keep the tires out of the inner fender.

better, http://www.jpmagazine.com/bree/154_0701 ... uary_2007/ but still mannish

I like the brackets, especially how they tie into the front crossemember. Another piece of angle on the bottom and you could tie into the swaybar mounts as well. Any chance I can get a measured drawing of those brackets? I don't like the tube so much, and I thnk you'll taco the middle if you apply any serious snatching force to the receiver.

so here's what I would do in your situation. Drop the rear driveshaft, it's just 4 5/16 bolts. Put the t-case in 4wd and try to move the truck. if it moves in front wheel drive your rear diff has exploded. If it still stalls I'd say you're taking the t-case out to inspect/repair.

they're made from cardboard on the inside, the cardboard fails, the filter media collapses and the motor dies. I used fram on an old plymout sundance I had with the mopar/mitsubishi 2.5. Had the worst vlavle train clatter you could think of when I started it in the morning. Changed filter brands, valve noise gone. The anti drainback in the fram sucked

if it was a 4.0 I'd consider a stroker. minimally more expensive than a good rebuild, and you can make anice 4.5L unit that will run on 87 octane and still make nice power. look here for basic blueprints about what you need. http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/

cut the lower quarters off after the wheel, they take a beating, then build a wrap around bumper for the rear. voila, rear sliders.

what motor and trans do you have now?

that's the metric threaded one. mobil 1 m1-207 should be the right part number to cross reference from.

the ba-10 had both a 21 spline and a 23 spline variant. You'll have to divorce the t-case and trans to verify what you've got. http://novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

I have heard though that a 4.0 throttle body is one helluva an upgrade for the 2.5. cheap way to make more power.

taken a look at the fluid? I'd have to say that if it's locked up good enough to smoke the clutch then it's probably grenaded inside. it's odd that it seems to shift alright though, perhaps it's the T-case that's locked up, tried shifting that in and out of 4WD?

dude, the j4000 is the bomb. What axles under that, a D60s?

I like these quotes, about 2 sentences apart: The back up lights are operated by a switch on the dash board so that the vehicle could pass state inspection The elctrical(sic) and optional equipment on this vehicle has been checked to insure that it is all in working condition. Well if it's all in working condition you wouldn't need a backup switch. How hard is it to wire the NSS? People are crazy, the dealer that sold my MJ originally wanted that much, I told them it was a thousand dollar truck, and walked away for 1500.

that's the nature of the beast, the little 4 banger needs to rev. The long crank and extra cylinders of the 6 make it a torquey motor. I cruise all day long at 70 MPH, with gearing close to stock @ 2K RPMs, and I only shift down for really steep hills. When wheeling I never make it past 3K RPMs, I just don't like the sound of the motor up that high. No need, torque peak on the 4.0 is around 2500, with 90% of that available from 1200 to 3K.

I believe the only difference in the ranger/exploder axles was the axleshaft. AFAIK the housings are the same.

I say run it, tight is a hard thing to describe over the internet. As long as the joints were smooth throughout the whole range of motion I don't think you'll have a problem.

if you haven't already, call your insurance company. They'll likely let you talk with someone there that can help you out with the legal aspect of things. My wife's car was hit, and the other insurance company balked at the repairs, it's a 97 camry. I called state farm, they put me in touch with one of their legal counsel, he explained what the other insurance company was liable for, and then made a phone call to their rep on my behalf. THe situation got sorted out quickly then.

I'm with you, my everyday machine is a duron 800 with 256 MB of ram and windows XP stripped to the bone.

yes, but on mine the wipers start as soon as you push the tab, and it usually takes a few seconds for the pump to get fluid on the window.

yes, I was just stressing that topping off your master with silicone wouldn't do you any good unless you bleed the whole system out.

don't forget that anything coming with XP will come with a reduced price upgrade voucher to vista.

mine has a double pump resovoir in it. One pump runs out before the other, so it's going to the passenger side of the window.