87manche

rusty's has 4" spring packs for SUA use, CW has them, you could use those and a shackle to make the rear match the front.

you need a new window regulator. I don't believe that the cable is available seperatly. My passenger side window does the same thing. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... /1612.html

dude, it was the 80's, those rims were the $#!& back then. http://www.lamborghiniregistry.com/LM002/

counter clockwise get's it down. I had to get under mine and use some vise grips on the tube that goes to the winch, it was rusted badly. Once you get it down spray some pentrating oil up in there and grease the cable. I also take mine down everytime I do an oil change, cause nothings worse than having to crawl under there on the side of the road to get the spare down. Also, mine may have been tampered with, but it had a cotter pin that joined the tube to the winch, it was rusted and broke when I applied a lot of torque. Something to check, I replaced mine with a small screw and nut.

the fusible link isn't in the rubber chunk, that's just where they joined it to the primary wire. The fusible links are attached to the starter relay, on the post. To test them, grab the rubber chunk and pull on it. A bad fusible link will pull apart. You can get replacement fusible link wire at the parts store, looks just like regular wire, you'll have to put a terminal end on it and use a but connector to attach it to the primary wire in the truck. Don't try and solder it or you'll destroy the fusible link. The accepted size for a fusible link is 2 wire gauges smaller than the primary wire it's feeding.

I forgot to mention the baja claws, this was another tire I saw in action at the mud in big rock, they plug up with mud and loose traction unless you spin the hell out of them. Maybe I'm just spoiled in the muck with TSLs.

wheeling in the midwest I've seen mostly loose dirt and mud. My observations: I wheeled with a YJ and procomp mud terrains, every hill was a full throttle attack to get the tires to clean. They sucked. Lot's of people use the BFG muds here, good performance, great street manners, but sidewall issues like was mentioned. I've got 34x9.5 TSL's on the MJ right now. Let's just say that I'm looking for some street tires, they're loud, take 10 miles before they're round and aren't wearing that great. They are exceptional offroad though, I walked through some really nasty mud at big rock without even needing to spin tires. Ice and snow are scary though. Truxus MT would be my choice for a dual purpose tire, a few people in the MWC run those and they seem to do well in all situations, decent in mud, good in rocks, and they street well. Balancing issues are the major complaint, but I think that's with the larger variants.

that's the exact same interior I have. and it's too pretty to wheel. As mine once was. I'm gonna have to go eagle and say: Don't wheel it, find a beater to trail break.

What drivetrain is in your comanche? the basic rules are this: 2.5L 5 spd-4.10 4.0 5 spd-3.07 4.0-auto-3.55 There are some exceptions, I have a pair of 3.73 geared axles under my junk, and the 2.5L with a 4 spd got 3.55. Most likely if you've got a 4.0 and an auto it's 3.55 if you want to know for sure, take the cover back off, find all the numbers on the ring gear and then post them.

34x9.5 swamper with 3" lift, stock flare After cutting: Finished front and rear: They don't rub, I've got hockey pucks in the coil buckets for bumpstops up front, stock bumpstops in the rear.

5" on stock front suspension arms is sucky. not to mention the trackbar issues, and the steering drag link being maxed out. I think they only have that kit for the rear SOA for a d35, and tires to fit 5" of lift are way to big for a 35. I'd look into the RE 4.5" system, it goes SOA in the rear and rounds it out with a full front suspension kit. It's like $1k but like pong says, you get what you pay for, and after you make the RR kit "complete" with a new trackbar and arms you'd be at that price anyway.

bah, they'll never import it like that. A few reasons: Same reason the diesel libby isn't for sale anymore, EPA mandated diesel emission standards. They'll have to ghey it up to meet new pedestrian safety standards and vehicle standard set forth by the federal government. Ever wonder why all new cars look the same? Because there's only so many ways you can make a front end pedestrian safe. Ask my opinion and I'd tell you that the damned pedestrians should just not get hit by cars.

I didn't realize that Eagle. since mine came with the rollpan it had already been hacked up

I cut the hell out of mine and it fit 34" swampers on 3" lift.

I assure you that long arm fab people aren't having bushings custom made. You just need to find out what the bushing they're using is, and then find the rubber variant.

head to naxja, do a search on sleeving frame rails You'll see the basic premise, you'll use angle or channel and form it to the uniframe rails, then plug weld the hell out of it to the original. It also provides a very good base to attch rock rails/cage/suspension stuff too.

my fualt with that logic is that the license plate lamps run from the parking lamp circuit, so if the parking lamps work it's not likely the ground. Does it have a trailer harness? I'd start there.

the eliminator package should have buckets, possibly a D44 rear and it will have a 4.0. if the body is good buy it! 4.0's and drivetrain parts are easily enough scavenged from donor cherokees.

I second that, the unifram rails are thin, so what seems like surface rust can actually be a bad case of frame rot. Water leaks are common in the cab, so rusted floor boards are as well. Rocker rust is always nasty doors/fenders and everything forward of the firewall is cherokee parts, so don't be afraid o some light front end damage. Bed parts are nearly impossible to find, junkyard only. Above the rear fenderwells is another popular rust place. If it's an 87-89 with the 4.0 and a 5spd check the trans, it may still be the original puegot trans, it's a POS and should never have been put behind the 4.0 It's a french light duty car trans.

for the installation of a lockright you'll be set, as you're not actually doinganything to the carrier. As to used gears, you're going to spend enough on the install kit that you might just consider the extra $80 for gears. Otherwise, I'd do a complete axle swap. I put 3.73 geared axles from an XJ in my junk.

the dash lights are fed from the parking lamp circuit. Are the parking lamps working? Mine decided to cook the parking lamp fuse the other day and I lost the dash lamps and my parking lamps. It's looking right now like I have a short in the parking lamp circuit under the dash. The parking lamp circuit is a dark blue wire, and you can unplug the rear and front harness to narrow down where the short is. The other possibility is the fuse block, mine was a mess and it took a few hours to get it back in good working order, circuits that were supposed to be powered from a common source were a big problem, and in that mess was the lighting circuits.

mines like petes, and it was on a stock height truck, it wasn't a problem.

I second this vote. I have pooly in my front control arms, and they suck. The new shackles I just put on the rear came with poly bushings for the frame end, and I don't have a problem there, but I think the bushings in the leaf should remain rubber.

you may have a cracked bottle, or it may have gotten the coolant so hot it deformed the plastic. That was the case for my MJ. It's likely that the temp light is coming on because you have air in the cylinder head. The closed cooling system is a bit of a pain to burp. Most recommend that you pull the temperature sender in the rear of the cylinder head, and then fill it until coolant comes out there. this is of course with the rear of the motor higher than the front. I bought a brass t fitting with a screw on cap, and spliced this into the upper hose that goes to the coolant tank from the thermostat housing. I pull the cap, park it nose high and fill the bottle until coolant comes out. You'll likely needa new collant pressure bottle, once they deform they don't hold pressure to well. Crown makes one that you can get for about $20, it's a good part, that's what I replaced mine with.

isn't that the truth, lot's of jeepers and no place to jeep.