87manche

:eek: :eek: he's gonna blow that motor in 3 days. 5.0 stroker with a turbo?! i hope he uses a renix block at least. jeez. those cylinder walls are gonna be DYING, not to mention he's gonna have a hell of a time keepin it cool. at first I thought that guy was full of it, but he's proven on Naxja that he knows what he's doing. that and the Bronco 6bt swap he did with a buddy.

vista WILL be good, but right now I'd go XP. There's a frightening lack of drivers for peripherals, and most software needs to be upgraded/patched to work properly. I can honestly say that about %50 of the software we've loaded onto Vista doesn't work. quickbooks most antivirus/anti spyware software I'd give Vista another 6 months until the marketplace catches up, then it will be just fine.

the only differnece is some bracketry on the axle, 6 or 8 it's still the same housing/shafts/brakes. I don't believe there is a carrier break, I know that my brother just put 4.56's on his 3.73 carrier

the x-member will be the same, and you should have the correct bolt holes in the unibody already, might need some nutserts to install in those holes, and you'll need a new trans mount.

The only think I can say about the silicone is that it's awesome, it has a higher boiling point and doesn't absorb water. it's perfect for a system like a clutch that doesn't get as much regular maintenance like the brakes. I mean, come on, I check the fluid now and then, but it doesn't get bled like the brakes every year. Anyway, my addition: most dot 5 fluids and dot 3 fluids don't mix well. So if you make the changeoever buy some extra fluid, and bleed the hell out of it.

when mine went I would get the wipers to perate when I turned on the washers, but no pump. Sounds similar to yours.

invesitage the black box under the dash that the wiper plug from the stalk plugs into. It's the intermittent module, and it also controls the windshiled washer pump.

bah, when it comes time to rewire the MJ this summer, thank god I got a DD now, it's going to get an HO PDC under the hood. Cheap, $25 with all the fuses and relays in it from the yard, and it will work just like stock. Going to replace all of the fusible links with maxi fuses, get to run a standard relay for the starter, and I'll have enough circuits left over to run accesories and an upgraded lighting harness. and the PDC comes apart, so you can get at the bottom of the sockets and figure out the wiring.

acer, best bang for the buck, American tech support.

Yes...I have had three different Swampers and the SSR's were the best all around of the bunch. They are tough off road like all Swampers and they had a good on road ride. They did flat spot when sitting for a while, but it drives out quickly. We did extremely good with mileage as well...getting about 32K out of them. well, I can tell you that my narrow SS bias ply TSL's are about the worst tire ever on the street and in the snow, but damn, they're freaking amazing off road.

if you're running a winch the second battery is a great thing.

I've hear that the SSR is about the most street friendly TSL there is. Here's some info on the KJ wheels: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Tires_&_Rims says stock BS is 5.5, I thought is was closer to 6, but I was mistaken.

start here. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm let us know what you find.

check here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255221 he's done a lot of stuff with the frontend, and it's the same for the MJ.

scca has a class for them. do a google search archer bros, you'll find that the Mj has a long racing history, and it included kicking a lot of @$$

are you saying that it was very tight to get the caps into the ears, or that the joints feel very tight when you try and move them by hand? the caps should go in tight, any slop and the ears would wallow out and the axle shaft would destroy itself. Tight when moving them by hand is subjective. To put in persepctive: I had to put my caps in with a hammer, I put one clip on, then used the hammer again to center the joint so I could put the other clip on. Once in, they were not easy to turn by hand, but they should move smoothly. If they don't you likely lost a needle bearing while putting them in.

sounds like they found a ground wire not attached, or corroded up and just fixed it.

are you planning on milling the knuckles to fit over the sleeve or just but them up against the sleeve and weld it all together?

tried a chevy dealership? The 231C uses the same case, so it should be the same seal.

it is a PITA, but I've never seiezed those bolts well, so it comes off with the air ratchet in about 5 min. It's saved my alternator from the nasty nasty ohio mud a few times, so it's worth keeping around if you have to wheel in the slop of the midwest.

unbolt one, bolt up the other, get a TCU from an XJ that matches your year. You'll need the flexplate, TC, and trans mount for the AW4. You'll need new driveshafts.

it's so pretty. sometimes I wish I hadn't done what I did to the MJ. your truck saddens my heart.

I'll assume it's a manual. You'll find the drain fill plugs on the drivers side for an AX-15, and on opposite sides if it's a BA-10 (I think) the AX-15 is a big hex nut, the ba-10 uses something that looks like a pipe plug. make sure you can open the fill plug BEFORE you drain the trans. speaking of draining it, don't just add, you really need to see the old fluid to judge how badly your trans may be damaged. Drain and refil with 75-90W GL3 rated oil for the AX-15, I don't know what a BA-10 takes.

KJ rims have some ridiculous backspacing don't they? a stock steely XJ/MJ rim would probably be a good fit to keep those tires out of the suspension.

MMO has it's places, it's a wonderful thing to free a sticky lifter. It's not something I would run in the crankcase every day, but when I get a sticky lifter I pour some in and drive for a day and then change the oil. I wouldn't use ATF or kero, but MMO doesn't thin the oil like those do.