Boilermaker

That truck has been for sale since at least july. it stuck in my memory because it looks like he put a 97+ bumper on a regular front end.

First thing i do is remove the visors and visor clips. Somebody may have a shortcut for the next part, but in the several i've removed, i've pulled out most of the interior trim...starting with the plastic trim and carpet at the back wall of the cab so that you can get to the plastic bolts holding the b-pillar trim on. Remove the torx bolts holding the top of the seatbelts of the b-pillar trim and the screw above it. The only thing holding the b pillar trim on at that point should be the interior lights and their wiring. Remove the two screws holding each of the a-pillar trim and the torx screws holding the grab handle on the passenger side. It might be overkill to remove all that, but i wasn't taking chances with already fragile headliners. One last and important note...there are two velcro strips at both the front and back of the headliner holding it to the roof. Reach your hand between the headliner and roof at the front and rear of the cab to carefully pull the velcro apart. A lot of times the glue holding the velcro to the roof or the headliner isn't sticking anymore, but better safe than sorry...the headliner will probably rip first if the glue and velcro is doing its job.

Are you looking for this one from Go-jeep's website: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm

I filled out this form on the jeep website a year or so back. I put in the comments section of the form that i wanted the build sheet for the VIN and inside a week I received a return email. If the link doesn't work, go to the jeep website, then click contact us at the bottom. Then click the I need CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE.. On that page there is a Send us an Email Link which leads to the form. EDIT: you can also try calling your local Jeep dealership.

this thread should help: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11270

absolutely necessary, no. But the 97+ header panel has slightly different shaped edges. So if you don't swap the fenders, it will look like this:

watchamakalit, i'm going to pm you right after i finish this post so we don't hijack this thread. Good point tho about the wiring and connectors changing around '90 or (more likely) '91. The cross body harness changed again i think in '94; the lock/unlock relays were moved off the harness and into the engine bay somewhere.

a couple of people around here have done it, and their posts helped a lot. Even then i still made a bunch of mistakes along the way...i thought i bought door wiring from a '96XJ from a member on here that isn't around anymore. Turns out everything was from an '89XJ (totally different connectors) and one of the regulators wasn't good. Lessons learned: get an FSM before tacking big projects and use as much wiring from the same year as your MJ as you can. I also carried a small project battery to the jy so i could test the window regulators before i pulled them. Also helped to be able to move up and down while pulling the wiring and regulators. And i've been lucky so far, the only electrical gremlin to pop up was a bad alarm the PO installed, it would go off randomly and drain the battery.

i've done it, its not too hard a project and there are a couple ways to do it. There are kits out there with new regulators. More expensive, but the new regulators will last much longer than anything you'll find at the junkyard. If you go the jy route, its mostly a matter of pulling wires and parts (i didn't have any pre-existing wiring). I found a '92 XJ and pulled the passenger door wiring and switches, cross body harness and power lock motors from it. I pulled the driver side wiring and switches from a 2 door XJ because it has 4 switches instead of 6 (no real need for rear window switches). The power window regulators i took from a '96 XJ, figured the newer the better and they were bolted to the door instead of riveted. The worst part of the whole project was drilling out the rivets on my manual regulators to get them out. I also reused those bolts when i installed the power regulator onto my doors. Then its just laying in the wiring the way you see it at the jy, and running a couple of wires to the fuse box. Wiring diagrams are also very helpful to have around just in case.

my doors definitely need to be closed harder, not a full slam tho. No alignment issues and that includes a period of time where i didn't have a door check. When i first bought my truck, it was nearly impossible to hold a conversation at highway speeds. Replacing the door seals helped nearly as much as swapping stationary vent windows for the movable windows.

Yes, the front door seals from a 97 and newer XJ will fit and they are thicker. I'm among several people around here who are using them. Someone posted a pic of them side by side so you could see the difference, can't find it right now tho.

LKQ on Northville road isn't bad. I stopped by there yesterday they had a couple of XJs, one used up MJ. Early Jeeps (about 94 and older) are all the way in the back and to the right. Did not look in the later model section. 1100 Northville St Houston, TX 77038 There's another LKQ on Wallisville road on the NE corner if I610. The prices aren't as good, the staff is pretty worthless. Even tho its much closer to me when i'm in town, i rarely go there. Three weeks ago they had maybe one or two XJs, no MJs in the early model side, and nothing in the later model section. 9314 Wallisville Rd Houston, TX 77013 Edit...there's a place right next to the LKQ Northville, a recycler, not a pick and pull. They had one MJ back with good tail lights. They also had a white '90 two door XJ with really good seats (well, at least before it rained all week this past week). Even the plastic around the recline handle on both seats were in one piece. I think he wanted $20/tail light and $50 total for both seats. May not be worth it to ship the seats back to your MJ, but just a heads up anyway.

It should work, but just coolant level, washer, power steering and brake fluid indicators (if you grab those sensors). You may also need to do some splicing to make the clock work; the wiring probably changed between 86/86 and your 89. If you look underneath the truck, the part of the wiring harness that runs to the axle and transfer case sensors will be pretty obvious. btw, all three of those sensors are the same; the axle sensors are easy to get to, the tcase not so much. I was never able to figure out where or what the brake pad sensors were. A few chrysler vehicles had brake pad sensors; late '80s lebarons came with a something called a traveler that was basically an electronic version of the XJ sentry system. Depending on what you grab and want to use for yourself, i might be interested in some of what you don't want. I have an extra display box and some sensors; with the remote control box, wiring and a few more sensors a second working system can be put together and someone else around here can use it.

If you haven't already, make sure you get the remote module (should be light blue and mounted at the bottom of the dash, near the driver's right knee). This may also help: Sentry System Wiring (.pdf file) If you need pictures of anything to help you find what you're looking for, i have most of the system in a box around here somewhere. If you are going to do the basic fluid sensors that work off just the display module, let me know, i could put the remote module to good use.

[url=http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10000]JEEP or whatever[/url] JEEP or whatever

A nice how to from gojeep's website: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFrontGaurds.htm

It's been done....do you have a specific question? Not wired, but a clean example (13th post in the thread): viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7164 A little rough, but wired (11th post from the top): viewtopic.php?t=2001&start=45

I have the carpet without the mass backing. The holes for the seat bolts, console, etc. are not pre-cut so i figured since i would rather put in my own sound deadening anyway, the carpet would be easier to work with and trim without mass backing. In general the shape of the carpet was ok except he fit around the hump was baggy, even after i put down the sound deadening. There was plenty of extra carpet along the edges. We'll see about long term quality, but i'm not optimistic. The carpet itself isn't nearly as thick as the oem (maybe the plush version would help?) and the driver's side heel pad is much smaller than oem. Besides going custom, does anyone know if there are other choices?

The old style made a huge difference...thanks for all the hard work.

I'm not sure; but i don't think so. I'll double check this afternoon. I've been where you are, gutted the cab, replaced the dash and added power accessories...if you want list of parts that i used and list of the mistakes i made along the way, PM me. btw, what year is your MJ?

you may know about this already... http://houstonpickapart.com/navigate/nycoupon.gif LKQ Northville still honored this last time i went, Wallisville doesn't. You want to stay far away from LKQ wallisville if at all possible anyway. If you don't find what you need at jy this weekend i have a '91 dash harness locally i'm selling.

Kit that may be available early next year: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=968859 Budget build in progress: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=970513

Hopefully A-man will be using my old harnesses...ECU definitely matches tranny, i've kept everything together. Doesn't have the security system, should be ok there. I have the entire engine sitting on a stand along with most of the rest of what came out the engine bay in boxes. Is there anything else i can send along to make this swap easier?

did you grab the shifter assembly from the 98? Take a look at this, even tho the writeup is for a pre-97 XJ not an MJ, it may still help: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63809

Image Not Found not much about the swap itself, but here is the thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5203 This is a longer build thread with more about the process of replacing the interior; its kind of in the middle and toward the end: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2962