Eagle

I stumbled across this little gem on Youtube, completely by accident. Naturally, I had to watch it -- and forgot what I was looking for by the time it ended.

Forget a source for the seals -- the problem is the design of the window, and the seals. When I bought my original 1988 Cherokee -- new -- it was a factory special order. The operable vents were an option in the 1988 model year, and I paid extra to get them. They leaked from Day One. I complained to the dealer about it, they had me talk to the factory service rep, and he cheerfully told me they had a fix. The "fix"? Remove the operable vents and replace with the fixed windows. And they wouldn't refund me the money I spent to get the operable vents. So I sealed them with silicone, and 30 years later they still don't leak. But they also don't open. Bottom line -- you can't fix them. They leak by design. If you must have operable vents, be prepared to accept that they WILL leak.

Unfortunately, there are also several errors. The list is an interesting starting point but, as Ronald Reagan said, 'Trust but verify." For example: As I hope everyone knows, XJ rear axles are NOT bolt-in swaps for an MJ. The spring percehes have to be relocated -- even if using them to change to spring-over, the center-to-center spacing is wrong.

Are you aware that the 97+ header doesn't quite align with the 96 and older fenders? The 97+ header has rounded radii at the upper, outer corners. The 97+ fenders follow this contour. The older fenders have a sharp chamfer at that point. The best way, then, is to use 97+ fenders with the 97+ header. I know one person who didn't. What he did was to use Bondo to fill in the upper corners of the new style header. Then he installed it, and filed it down to match the contours of the fenders.

Could also be caused by incorrect toe setting. That's easy to check with a tape measure.

The operable vent windows were available as an option in all years of the MJ, and on the XJ through the 1996 model year. The Cherokee changed to a full window in 1997, but the latch location was shifted slightly so the 1997+ doors require relocating the strike on the door post to use them. Tow mirrors were an option, and I believe they were available in all years of the MJ.

I missed that. Does the 2.5L use the bellcrank linkage?

Clean idle air controller. Also -- on the Renix models (which includes 1990), the accelerator cable doesn't connect the gas pedal directly to the throttle body. The cable goes to a bellcrank assembly that's mounted on the frame rail on the driver's side, below the brake master cylinder. The bellcrank is a pivot, and over the years the pivot can get dirty and rusty, restricting movement. Try spritzing it with PB Blaster.

Looks to me like the original throttle body injection. There were no carbureted 4-cylinder Comanches. The Comanche came out in 1986, and Jeep only used carburetors on the 2.5L engine in 1984 and 1985. Look again -- it it really is a carburetor, then the engine has been swapped in.

What year, what engine and transmission, have you ade any modifications? Give us something to start with, please ...

I agree completely. I would get the replacement even if I never used it. Companies that offer "lifetime" warranties and then try to back off because of a "change in policy" piss me off greatly. Back in the day, Wordperfect did that. They offered free, lifetime tech support. And then, one fine day, they simply dropped free tech support. Then they wondered why people went with Word rather than buying Wordperfect. Idjits. I learned just a few days ago that some other major company had bailed on their lifetime warranties. I wish I could remember who it was. I really think the FTC should prosecute any company that reneges on a lifetime warranty or service or support policy.

I would take it back and make them replace it just because ...

Long bed and short bed -- those are the choices.

Did you mean on the spark plugs? I don't think the 2.5L ever changed to coil pack ignition. The 4.0L XJ didn't get it until the 2000 model year.

Be sure to save the rear flares. The fronts are the same as for a Cherokee, and those are available new on the aftermarket. The MJ rear flares are unique, and are NOT available. Save the backing plates, too -- the studs will almost certainly break off, but there are ways to repair that. In fact, if they're solid and if you have the body work skills, it would be great if you could save the complete rear quarters.

What missing pics? I just reviewed the entire thread, and I see lots of pics -- and no posts that appear to be missing pics.

Plus the Sylvania XtraVision "bulbs" I mentioned above provide more wattage (and thus more light) on low beam than the factory headlamps, as well as a longer rated life. The SilverStars are also claimed to put out more light on low beam, but if you look at the rated lamp life, the SilverStars suck and the XtraVisions knock the SilerStars out of the park.

Just think how many Sylvania XtraVision bulbs you can buy for $600 ...

If they are D.O.T. approved they are legal for street use. Brightness is not the issue -- aiming is the issue. Too many people just pop in new headlights of a different type and then don't bother to aim them.

Yes. The Jeep 4.2L, 4.0L, and 2.5L engines were AMC engines. That engine family began in 1964, as a 232 cubic inch, carbureted in-line six that was advertised as "The six that performs like an eight." (Which was more than a little optimistic, but they were and are great engines, and with minimal care will easily keep running for 300,000+ miles.

Regardless of which side of the HO vs Renix debate you come down on, 1996 is almost without debate the worst year for the HO. 1996 was the first year that Jeep moved from OBD-1 to OBD-2, and they did it only because it was mandated by the federal government. They knew they were coming out with a significant overhaul of the platform for model year 1997, so the 1996 with OBD-2 was a kludge. Some might regard it as something else, the vernacular description of which involves something about clusters and sexual acts. If I were using a '96 as the base for a swap, I would swap in the mechanical components and maintain the 1988 Renix electrical and fuel system. At least that way you'll know what you're dealing with.

Yes. My fuzzy recollection is that the 2.5L oxygen sensor doesn't have a heater.

I suspect it's the sensor, but there's a quick and dirty check for the gauge. With the ignition on (engine does not need to be running): Disconnect the wire from the sensor, and don't let it touch anything. The gauge should go to 80 psi. Ground the sensor wire directly to the engine block or chassis -- the gauge should swing all the way to zero. If it passes this test, and you have oil pumping out with the sender removed, it's probably the sender.

Many years ago, one of early members in NAXJA told me that he used backing plates off an older, drum brake Ford Crown Vic.

That's a very good possibility. The distribution block isn't difficult to work on -- the hardest part will be getting it out of the vehicle. Give it a good cleaning out and see if that makes the difference.